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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 11:19 am 
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Post is worthless without photos! :lol: :lol:

You're talking about a gadget you built to compress the spring... all kidding aside, for a novice like me, it's hard to understand what you did and how it's used without actually seeing it. I guess if I'm hoping to one day upgrade the spring in my X5 to the US standard one I'm going to have to figure this out.

Or simply buy a more powerful and higher-quality gun once I get my PAL.

Cheers!


PeterG wrote:
Cheap spring compressor that works. (Sorry but no pics.)

I already had a 16" steel "F" clamp. They're about $20 from Princess Auto or Canadian Tire.

I arranged two 40" 2x4's with one sitting on its edge, and the other laid flat on top of it like a very long letter T and screwed them together.

The F clamp has one fixed end. I drilled out the rivet and removed that fixed end. I cut a groove on the bottom at one end of the lower 2x4 of the T, slid the F clamp bar into it, pinned it and put braces to keep it in the groove. I left about 6" of the bar sticking out so now I had the top of the F clamp just above the top 2x4 with 6" of adjustment, and about 3 1/2" of threaded travel. That's enough for all the guns I own.

I made a moveable traveler to slide up and down the top 2x4 with plywood sides and bottom and pieces underneath to keep if from coming off its 2x4 track. I made vertical holes in the traveler and 2x4 track about 1" apart so the traveler can be pinned at a convenient spot.

The gap between the plywood sides I made so that it is just wide enough to accept the breech end of a barrel meaning I don't have to take the barrel off a gun in order to use the spring compressor.

I also have a piece of plywood cut to fit the end of the traveler, with a lug to fit into the gap and a hole drilled to take a pin to hold it in place. I use that piece for one of my guns with a fixed barrel, or if for some reason I have the barrel off any gun.

I have two bolts padded with some brake line, screwed vertically into the top 2x4 near the F clamp end to avoid sideways movement of the action when the spring is compressed. I have some pieces of 3/16" scrap notched to fit between the bolts and left removable so I can stack as many as are needed for each gun. To prevent upwards of the action under compression, I have a re-usable heavy weight zip tie which goes around the two bolts.

I put feet on the whole thing by simply screwing a couple of pieces of 2x4 about 8" long, sideways on the bottom 2x4. I drilled holes in one of the feet to accept the four different sized punches I use to push the pins out.

To help stability, I glued a bicycle tube patch on the face of the F clamp and it works really well.

I've used this set-up a lot and it hasn't caused me any problems and cost nothing because I already had all the stuff. 8)

I hope I haven't forgotten anything.

If someone sees a problem with my set-up, I'd love to know so I can fix it.

Peter :D

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 7:54 pm 
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Mtl_Biker: Good point on the pal thing. Crosman offers the gun @ 500fps but I didn't know the X20 is not available like that. Of course getting an Crosman is an option.
Attached are a couple pix of compressors to avoid be a worthless post ;)
I'm not sure why anyone makes complex versions, imo the top one is all anyone needs. Could easily use a sturdy 2x4 instead but I wrote 4x4 to be on the safe side for those who don't have a feel for wood strength. The bottom one is an option if anyone felt the need to make it.
I have never needed a compressor for any coil spring gun, only a couple nitro springs that were exceptionally strong. So maybe you won't need one at all.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:18 pm 
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The Stoeger X5 is (or was) detuned by having a extra long latchrod.
My old one shot well below 500fps in stock form and I tuned it to shoot 500 fps. Here is a link to my post on the GTA, sry you probably have to join them to read it. Or search on this forum, maybe I posted it here as well.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/ind ... #msg411236

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 10:38 am 
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Interesting. Thanks very much for the link.

Dukemeister wrote:
The Stoeger X5 is (or was) detuned by having a extra long latchrod.
My old one shot well below 500fps in stock form and I tuned it to shoot 500 fps. Here is a link to my post on the GTA, sry you probably have to join them to read it. Or search on this forum, maybe I posted it here as well.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/ind ... #msg411236

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 10:01 am 
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Possibly dumb question.... does the spring need to be removed on the X5 in order to clean up the trigger? I don't yet have a spring compressor, but if possible, I'd really like to improve the trigger action.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 11:52 am 
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The trigger assy holds the spring in the gun so it is under the springs preload force. I don't think it'll be much but if you don't feel comfortable doing it by hand then yes you'd need a compressor.
Usually if you want to see how a gun is put together you can google the guns name/model + parts diagram.
So "Stoeger X5 parts diagram", hit Enter, then click the word "Images" just below the search box. It will show many useless/wrong pix but usually an exploded parts diagram will among them at or near the top of the list.
I think the X5 is actually a BAM B16 so maybe search that too


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 9:05 am 
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Chevota wrote:
The trigger assy holds the spring in the gun so it is under the springs preload force. I don't think it'll be much but if you don't feel comfortable doing it by hand then yes you'd need a compressor.
Usually if you want to see how a gun is put together you can google the guns name/model + parts diagram.
So "Stoeger X5 parts diagram", hit Enter, then click the word "Images" just below the search box. It will show many useless/wrong pix but usually an exploded parts diagram will among them at or near the top of the list.
I think the X5 is actually a BAM B16 so maybe search that too


Thank you. I already have the exploded parts diagram but it wasn't clear to me from it whether or not the spring needed to come out in order to get to the trigger assembly. I've never done anything like this before but I'm fairly mechanically comfortable. I guess my first step should be to make a spring compressor just in case. If not really needed for the X5, I'm sure I'll need it eventually as I add to my collection.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 11:11 am 
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According to the pictures of the op, your trigger is about the same as a Ruger Explorer trigger, and I found an illustrated procedure to tune it, if it can help: http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/th ... b+Tutorial

Here are some pics of my Explorer's trigger, for comparison:


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IMG_4691.JPG [ 129.83 KiB | Viewed 703 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 1:49 pm 
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airmec wrote:
According to the pictures of the op, your trigger is about the same as a Ruger Explorer trigger, and I found an illustrated procedure to tune it, if it can help: http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/th ... b+Tutorial

Here are some pics of my Explorer's trigger, for comparison:


Thank you! Very helpful.

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CZ200S "Green" .177
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Air Arms S400 MPR FT .177
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Stoeger X5 (non-PAL)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 3:05 pm 
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I got the X5 all apart, cleaned it up, polished the sear and contact surfaces and I didn't need a spring compressor to do it. I guess the spring on this gun is pretty weak (it's a Canadian non-PAL model).

Can you help with what exactly should be lubed, and with what? I've got it back together already but I wonder if I missed something or did something wrong. The ends of the spring I used moly and also on the contact surfaces on the sear that I polished. I put a few drops of RWS "Spring Cylinder Oil" onto the spring itself and it says on the label, "Do not apply to compression chamber". Do you put anything on the compression chamber walls? I also used a bit of silicone gun oil on the gasket at the end of the piston assembly.

Obviously I'm a newbie.

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CZ200S "Green" .177
Feinwerkbau 800 Evolution Top
Air Arms S400 MPR FT .177
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 4:20 pm 
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You can apply a light coat of moly paste on the cylinder wall, the most important area being the one opposed to the cocking slot. Apply the lubricant after you installed the piston so it's not wiped off by the piston's seal and get in the comp. chamber.
Another area you didn't mention, but also important to not overlook, is the barrel pivot bolt. Again, a light coat of moly can be applied on the bolt itself, and also on the outer face of the pivot washers. The locking ball or ''chisel'' in the lower part of the breach block should also be lubricated, this is important for proper barrel lock-up. If you can depress the ball or chisel to introduce oil or grease in the recess, the better. And yet another place is the cocking arm's ''shoe'', the end of the cocking arm that slide in the cylinder's slot. Moly is good there too. The piston seal can be lubed with a light coat of silicon grease, on the side only. Never introduce lubricant in the compression chamber itself.
The spring ends can be polished, as you did on the trigger parts. This helps to reduce vibrations and smooth the action. Putting moly on the spring ends was the thing to do. And you can lightly coat the spring guide and the inside of the piston with moly paste.
As for the trigger, I don't have moly paste, but I use synthetic bicycle chain oil (O-ring safe), it works real well. A couple of drops is all it takes. The cocking arm pivot can also benefit from a drop of oil.
And a small tip: I often use a small artist paint brush to apply grease; no grease on your hands, you can reach tight spots easily, and it's rather easy to control the amount of grease applied. :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 4:59 pm 
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airmec wrote:
You can apply a light coat of moly paste on the cylinder wall, the most important area being the one opposed to the cocking slot. Apply the lubricant after you installed the piston so it's not wiped off by the piston's seal and get in the comp. chamber.
Another area you didn't mention, but also important to not overlook, is the barrel pivot bolt. Again, a light coat of moly can be applied on the bolt itself, and also on the outer face of the pivot washers. The locking ball or ''chisel'' in the lower part of the breach block should also be lubricated, this is important for proper barrel lock-up. If you can depress the ball or chisel to introduce oil or grease in the recess, the better. And yet another place is the cocking arm's ''shoe'', the end of the cocking arm that slide in the cylinder's slot. Moly is good there too. The piston seal can be lubed with a light coat of silicon grease, on the side only. Never introduce lubricant in the compression chamber itself.
The spring ends can be polished, as you did on the trigger parts. This helps to reduce vibrations and smooth the action. Putting moly on the spring ends was the thing to do. And you can lightly coat the spring guide and the inside of the piston with moly paste.
As for the trigger, I don't have moly paste, but I use synthetic bicycle chain oil (O-ring safe), it works real well. A couple of drops is all it takes. The cocking arm pivot can also benefit from a drop of oil.
And a small tip: I often use a small artist paint brush to apply grease; no grease on your hands, you can reach tight spots easily, and it's rather easy to control the amount of grease applied. :wink:


Thank you very much! A most helpful reply!!!!!

I'll open part of the gun up again to do what you suggested. And I use a toothpick to get moly into tight spots. Seems to work very well.

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CZ200S "Green" .177
Feinwerkbau 800 Evolution Top
Air Arms S400 MPR FT .177
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Benjamin Sheridan 397P
Stoeger X5 (non-PAL)
Crosman P1377 & P1322


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 7:27 pm 
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Mtl_Biker wrote:
Post is worthless without photos! :lol: :lol:

You're talking about a gadget you built to compress the spring... all kidding aside, for a novice like me, it's hard to understand what you did and how it's used without actually seeing it.


What about my gadget ?
I was trying to make pictures easy to understand.
It took one hour and a bottle a beer to build it. Oh, well, and some simple tools as well. Then another hour to upgrade friend's rifle.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 8:32 am 
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npMtl wrote:
Mtl_Biker wrote:
Post is worthless without photos! :lol: :lol:

You're talking about a gadget you built to compress the spring... all kidding aside, for a novice like me, it's hard to understand what you did and how it's used without actually seeing it.


What about my gadget ?
I was trying to make pictures easy to understand.
It took one hour and a bottle a beer to build it. Oh, well, and some simple tools as well. Then another hour to upgrade friend's rifle.


I LIKE it!!!!

It does look very easy to make, but are you SURE it only took ONE bottle of beer? Looks like at least two to me! :)

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CZ200S "Green" .177
Feinwerkbau 800 Evolution Top
Air Arms S400 MPR FT .177
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Stoeger X5 (non-PAL)
Crosman P1377 & P1322


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:12 pm 
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Mtl_Biker wrote:
npMtl wrote:
Mtl_Biker wrote:
Post is worthless without photos! :lol: :lol:

You're talking about a gadget you built to compress the spring... all kidding aside, for a novice like me, it's hard to understand what you did and how it's used without actually seeing it.


What about my gadget ?
I was trying to make pictures easy to understand.
It took one hour and a bottle a beer to build it. Oh, well, and some simple tools as well. Then another hour to upgrade friend's rifle.


I LIKE it!!!!

It does look very easy to make, but are you SURE it only took ONE bottle of beer? Looks like at least two to me! :)


haha, actually there was also some home made apple cider there in friends garage and it is near 2 times stronger than beer is. This drink kinda stimulates creativity )) Glad you like my device. Get 15mm plywood, some long screws and tools and you're good to go.

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