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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 4:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:34 pm
Posts: 1155
Location: Vernon BC
Hello, I tried this mod to check it out (removing the reset spring). The trigger pull now is greatly reduced. But am I missing something? Or do something wrong? Because now the trigger blade is a little loose in all directions, or is that normal when you remove spring (nothing else)? And how safe is the trigger now? I've done some test bumps in a safe direction and that cleared. Anyone have an accidental discharge after this mod?

I'm thinking I might put spring back on if trigger blade is supposed to be loose in all directions when not cocked. Also, can I try bending reset spring closer for lighter pull if reinstalled with success or will it eventually bend back to stock stiffness? I'm new at this and don't know too much, besides basic assembly/reassembly. Thanks for showing how!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 3:33 pm
Posts: 484
Location: Montreal
The play is always there because the trigger isn't always contacting the sear, just that you don't notice it when the spring props it forward. Without it you may also notice if you stop pulling your trigger halfway into a shot it will stay there and not reset forward, in which case you should read this: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/ind ... ic=18419.0

If you are mechanically inclined just take the trigger apart and play with the levers and see how they interact, and you'll understand how everything works, it's actually very simple. (assuming you have the cast iron trigger, never seen the plastic one so I don't know how it works)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 8:29 pm 
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peterdulux wrote:
$38.99 for trigger or remove spring for free. Hmmm Spring!!!


Can't correct the geometry by taking out a spring.

Unless someone compares the replacement trigger with these sorts of "adjustments" in a rifle side-by-side, people may get more than what they had, but not everything possible- they just don't know it. But, I understand "economical" may be the most important factor for some.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 11:27 pm
Posts: 2074
Location: Toronto
M3ga3T wrote:
Hello, I tried this mod to check it out (removing the reset spring). The trigger pull now is greatly reduced. But am I missing something? Or do something wrong? Because now the trigger blade is a little loose in all directions, or is that normal when you remove spring (nothing else)? And how safe is the trigger now? I've done some test bumps in a safe direction and that cleared. Anyone have an accidental discharge after this mod?

I'm thinking I might put spring back on if trigger blade is supposed to be loose in all directions when not cocked. Also, can I try bending reset spring closer for lighter pull if reinstalled with success or will it eventually bend back to stock stiffness? I'm new at this and don't know too much, besides basic assembly/reassembly. Thanks for showing how!


I don't notice any looseness in my 2 rifles after the mod. Like I said, there is another albeit lighter spring in the trigger group that tensions the trigger.

I have never had an accidental discharge since I did the mod. I did the bump test quite rigorously 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 9:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 12:00 am
Posts: 12
Hey nice. Found this while looking back for Discovery info this morning. One cup of coffee later and my Quest 500 trigger is great for a no $ mod. I'm new here and sure like the endless amount of experience , knowledge, and information on this form.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:42 pm 
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jzmtl wrote:

If you are mechanically inclined just take the trigger apart and play with the levers and see how they interact, and you'll understand how everything works, it's actually very simple. (assuming you have the cast iron trigger, never seen the plastic one so I don't know how it works)

Where can I obtain one of these cast iron triggers... if it will fit my circa 2008 .22 phantom with the stamped steel trigger?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:21 pm 
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There is no cast iron trigger for Phantoms, they have always been stamped steel.

Some of the original Remington NP rifles had a cast trigger- but the rifles weren't sold very long and the trigger blade was never offered as a spare part (and the complete trigger block won't fit the B18/B19 platform).








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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:29 pm
Posts: 11
Thanks Eric. I have installed the "soup can" trigger adjustment in my gun. I find it works great so I won't need a different trigger blade to mod after all.

Amazing how much easier it is to hit the bulls eye with a smooth, light trigger. I also just learned about the artillery hold so my shots have improved quite a bit in the last 2 days.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 2:18 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:34 pm
Posts: 1155
Location: Vernon BC
A safety update I should have mentioned- Although removing the spring does help a tiny fraction, its best just to get the GTX, if you love your gun that much & wish to improve on it. i too tried a few different "washer mod" sizes. After finding one I liked, and "worked", I shot my Phantom quite a bit. Until one day, it got dangerous. My girlfriend was loading a pellet, as soon as she locked the barrel, the Phantom fired prematurely. Straight into our wall! I test fire & what not out my back window (into a wooded area). After that I tried (gently cocked the gun), gave a bump test into a safe area... Same thing, fired as a result of a bump.

I don't know what happened? Trigger mechanism wearing in? So I quickly took the washer out. Before this happened, I also tried the washer "mod" on my Trail, didn't cock no matter what! Now I just accept the stock triggers for what they are (w/o spring).

After this experience, my suggestion is get the trigger. Don't risk it. Losing an eye's not worth it, neither is accidentally hurting someone. If you enjoy this sport/hobby and like your gun and wish to improve on your shooting experience, go for the GTX. It'll change your Crosman/Benjamin (etc.) into a new, more enjoyable airgun. Looks cool too.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 2:55 am 
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Location: Toronto
M3ga3T wrote:
A safety update I should have mentioned- Although removing the spring does help a tiny fraction, its best just to get the GTX, if you love your gun that much & wish to improve on it. i too tried a few different "washer mod" sizes. After finding one I liked, and "worked", I shot my Phantom quite a bit. Until one day, it got dangerous. My girlfriend was loading a pellet, as soon as she locked the barrel, the Phantom fired prematurely. Straight into our wall! I test fire & what not out my back window (into a wooded area). After that I tried (gently cocked the gun), gave a bump test into a safe area... Same thing, fired as a result of a bump.

I don't know what happened? Trigger mechanism wearing in? So I quickly took the washer out. Before this happened, I also tried the washer "mod" on my Trail, didn't cock no matter what! Now I just accept the stock triggers for what they are (w/o spring).

After this experience, my suggestion is get the trigger. Don't risk it. Losing an eye's not worth it, neither is accidentally hurting someone. If you enjoy this sport/hobby and like your gun and wish to improve on your shooting experience, go for the GTX. It'll change your Crosman/Benjamin (etc.) into a new, more enjoyable airgun. Looks cool too.


Thanks for the warning for the washer mod, but it has nothing to do with this mod, which is perfectly safe.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:33 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:29 pm
Posts: 11
The washer mod is the same as turning the adjusting screw all the way in. It just shortens the sear engagement and makes a dangerous hair trigger.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:46 pm
Posts: 1395
Location: r Alberta
Best $40 I spent on my Phantom. Never tried the spring mod so I can.t comment on it. I sure got my $40 worth with the new trigger.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:03 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Kelowna, BC
With the removal of the spring, does the entire trigger assembly need to be removed from the action, or can it remain in place for the work that needs to be done?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:34 pm
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Location: Vernon BC
Can stay in place. After removing stock, just need to remove 1 e-clip.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 4:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:03 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Kelowna, BC
Thanks, M3ga3T. I just took it apart, removed the spring...and what a difference it makes! I'm in love with the lighter weight. No so much in love with the looseness of the trigger though...

Bottom line: If you're strapped for cash, this is a phenomenal mod. If you'd like to do things "right"...just get the damn GTX (which I'll be doing in January).

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Crosman 2100 (from my childhood in the 80's...in the process of fixing her up)
Crosman 2200 Magnum || Crosman 1377 || Crosman 357 || Umarex XBG


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