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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 3:33 pm
Posts: 484
Location: Montreal
Aren't firearm barrels hardened as oppose to airgun's barrels left unhardened?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:32 pm
Posts: 899
I did some research this afternoon but never did learn exactly how airgun barrels are produced.

I did learn that both airgun and .22 rimfire barrels often do better with a slight choke at the muzzle while centerfire rifles do better without it. Also learned that both types of barrels are hardened to a Goldilocks standard. Not too hard and not too soft. They are about midway between drill bits, hardened tools etc. and mild steel.

I did read one bit of information which indicated that airgun barrels (at least barrel cockers) need to be of better quality as they endure quite a bit of strain from being used as a lever for cocking.

Maybe someone else knows the exact answer.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 772
Location: Toronto
So would a bore light show build up in the barrel indicating that cleaning is needed?
Anyway, I occasionally push a cleaning pellet through my pistols with the flat end of a bamboo skewer from the kitchen.
If I moisten them with pell gun oil, I will always expect some inaccurate shots for awhile.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:14 pm
Posts: 1343
Location: quebec
i say ,dont clean noting if you want but always clean your barrel :lol: :lol:

waht could cause bad accuracy,,,

- a rifling too sharp,when the rifling is too much sharp accuracy began after some lead fill some cavity,its not the best option ,,

-too much lead ,so bullets cant twist corecly

-too much other kind of dirt ,like oil etc,,,will give iregularity to the bullets to,

-and a bad size choice of pellets ,if the pellets cant expend in the riffling ,it couldn't worl to his best,,

as you can feel the kick back recoil difference from a clean or dirt powder burner
you can feel it too from an airgun

i learn to deal with the barrel and pellets for best accuracy with a clean barrel from the begening, and always clean it as i could,
so i have no change surprise after clean it ,,



target man

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 12:09 pm
Posts: 1677
Location: Waterloo, Ontario
Quote:
jzmtl wrote
Aren't firearm barrels hardened as oppose to airgun's barrels left unhardened?


To make a long story short the barrels of firearms are made of either so-called “chrome-moly” steels (SAE 4130/4140/4340) or 416/416R stainless free-machining steel. These steels are heat treated that means annealed at appropriate temperature, quenched and tempered to Rockwell hardness roughly around 30. This level of hardness assures a balance between tensile strength against impact strength. So in all practical terms they are not really so hard. For.22 rimfire barrels SAE 1117 free machining steel is the most popular one. This is a low-carbon and as such non-hardenable steel.
Airgun barrels do not require to withstand the level of stresses found in firearm barrels and they are not exposed to hot gases. For example, Crosman and Daisy use tubing made of SAE 1010/1020 low-carbon non-hardenable steels. Some manufactures will use SAE 1117 steel. Very few will use a chrome-moly steel but that’s rare and not really necessary.
The airgun barrels are relatively soft and the rifling is pretty shallow. Extensive cleaning, particularly with metal brushes may not be the best idea. I would say that cleaning barrels of sub-500fps airguns is not really necessary as long as they are being shot at regular intervals and the accuracy is still unchanged. A good video on barrel cleaning for airguns is here: http://airgun-academy.pyramydair.com/vi ... un-barrel/


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 3:33 pm
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Location: Montreal
Thanks, very interesting to know the actual steel used and hardness they run.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:14 pm
Posts: 1343
Location: quebec
sure there cleaning and cleaning ,

they say too much cleaning ''could ''affect accuracy ,,
that true ,,but only if you brush them

i like mirror shine barrels ,but never had to brush mine they are too much wipe ,and that could never damage a barrel


about some dirt pellets ,the most dirt are probably the cheap daisy one ,,,
but they are the purest lead one too,

target man

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6088
Location: P.G. B.C.
idontknowjack wrote:
It's not actually the bronze brush that's the biggest problem, it's the steel rod you need to use. Especially on guns you need to clean from the muzzle end. Best to avoid them all together. I hardly use a cleaning rod on my powderburners anymore. Boresnakes are the way to go.


Interesting about bore snakes - find a BR competition or competition shooter and ask them/him about bore snakes.

The Governments of the world issued "bore snakes" to the soldiers.
Many a war relic (rifle) has an oblong-worn (or just worn out oversize) muzzle crown, due to those bore snakes & they used cotton rope. Modern plastics - take your chances.

Ever see a prospective buyer (at a gun show) try the fit of a factory loaded bullet in the muzzle and frown when it goes in to the case neck - then put the rifle down - "no thank" is the usual comment.

I use only one piece rods for cleaning any of my rifles,usually coated but not always. Currently I am experimenting with carbon rods by Tipton. Dewey .17cal rods are garbage, however their larger sizes are OK, to preferred in the .35 cal. and up rods. The Tipton rods are very stiff and I've not sen any damage from them ---- yet. I am using them in .22-250, .243 and .300 mag. They run somewhat over $50.00 ea.
Kleen-bore make decent rods as well- bet is .17 cal. The Dewey .17 cal. rods are a cross between peanut butter and hard molasses. They are too soft, bend & kink - stay bent and scrub their coating off inside the bore while wearing the rifling.

I also do NOT use bronze brushes in my rifle bores. I introduce solvents with a 'dedicated' nylon brush - then wait 15 minutes, then patch out and reapply if necessary. For bad to severe guilding metal or copper fouling, I use an overnight soak with Wipe Out foam. That works perfectly, every time, even a slightly rough 9.3x62 Oberdorf I have that 'copper's badly.

For the air rifles, I am going to try the whipper cord .065"- made one up yesterday. I expect I will wait until accuracy does fall off before using it. Prior to this, I have used 2 felt 'pellets' with Crossman oil + a standard pellet behind them, for cleaning - 2 of them (4-felt, 2 pellets) seemed to work.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:54 pm
Posts: 2415
Location: Northeastern Ontario
Sure waited a long time to respond to the topic. :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6088
Location: P.G. B.C.
:D :drinkers:

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