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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:16 am 
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Available at TOW, but does anyone know of a source in Canada?

Playing around with a few rust blue methods and would like to give this a try if I can find some.

Interesting subject, with possibly rewarding results. 8)

Thanks in advance,

Al


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:24 am 
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I've used it for years and always got it from track. When finished, make sure you 'kill' the rust with several scrubbings of baking soda and water, even vinegar straight or with water, then flushed and scrubbed with clean water. After heating and oiling, expect some after rust, which will stop with time. Once it gets a 'hold' it really cooks. I like it, other's don't. I'm out right now or I'd send you some, Al.
For a smoother finish, card between coats with burlap or heavy denim.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:13 pm 
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Guess I'll just up and order some then. :)

Thanks for the tips Daryl...might bend your ear a little if I run into grief with it.

Have been experimenting with a quick pickle in diluted muriatic acid and into a 3% hydrogen peroxide bath...forms the iron oxide pretty quickly...an hour for a good coat and no pitting.

Got a real kick watching it convert to magnetite in a bath of boiling distilled water. 8)

Want to try electroless rust removal..done backwards to deposit the iron oxide on the "good" part...no "bad" chemicals, and fairly quick as well.

Al


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:10 pm 
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Chemistry experimentation got me in trouble in school. I try to stay with stuff I know about.
Call or write any time. Glad to help if possible.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:29 pm 
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Gippeto are you now becoming an alchemist ?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:21 am 
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:)
Playing around a little...rusting steel is an intriguing topic.

Actually having some degree of success...pictures when I get home to my puter.

Al


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:36 pm 
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Little cutoff of 4140 barrel liner. Used "home brewed" formula #3...all household stuff. 8) Carded with 0000 steel wool...at this stage, you CAN'T rub the finish off with the steel wool! :)

Image

Ordered some of the Laurel Mountain product to compare results.

Rest of the pics are on my phone...will get to them sooner or later. :lol:

To suggest that I'm "tickled pink" by the ease and the results would be an understatement.

Al


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 12:10 pm 
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Al - appears you Rust Blued the barrel stub. Normally that is done by boiling the 'piece' after the last rusting session. Nice job.

I've browned a barrel (nice job and colour) using nitric acid - ie: glass bottle of nitric acid with nails rusted (disolved) in it, then mixed in about 50% distilled water, I think it was. The solution is very caustic, dangerous & actually developed a 'thick skin syndrome' in my thumbs, index and middle fingers from the severe burns I received when using it. My fingers used to THROB with every heat beat! I'd suggest you not use nitric- HA!

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 2:48 pm 
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Rust blued...what I was after. :wink: That's after 6 rusting/boiling/carding cycles...picture does not do it true justice. :)

Nitric acid is somewhat difficult to find...blame the nefarious types. :evil: Did find the Nieder formula of nitric, hydrochloric, iron and distilled water...and several others considerably more user friendly.

Currently trying a different formula again and liking the results. Degrease, sand with 320grit, pickle with straight muriatic (30% HCL) then wipe with a saturated solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide and sea salt. Rusts up nicely in 1.5 to 2 hrs (depending on humidity) and the solution keeps...the other solution didn't work the next day.

Really boils (get it? :lol: ) down to finding the best way to rust the steel in a controllable manner...boiling and carding is the easy part. I do believe I'll never buy cold blue again. :D

Regards,

Al


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 2:57 pm 
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Looks nice Al. looking forward to seeing it at the next shoot.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:44 am 
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Think I'll have a larger piece for show and tell...someone DID suggest I "Blue that bloody thing". :lol: :wink:

Had the QB79 torn down anyway, so thought I might give it a whirl...10 rust/boil/card cycles later...2240 barrel was a "victim" of earlier experimentation and was pitted badly.

Image

Al


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:59 am 
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When doing barrels, they must be plugged with wooden plugs - effectively, to prevent rusting inside.

As far as I know, Taylor only boils after he's got the outside finish he wants. the final boiling changes the colour from brown to blue - I think- but I will check that out with him.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 1:20 am 
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Have heard of plugging the barrel and shellacking the bore.

Any advice borne from experience is most welcome. Am eyeballing the LW barrel for this rifle right now....sure would look good all blued up. 8)

Thanks, Daryl. :)

Al


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:15 am 
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Al - be sure to plug the well-oiled barrel's breech and muzzle. Most browning solutions can also waft corrosive vapour and will effect non-protected surfaces some distance from your 'work' - tools, brass cases and other 'stuff' made of metal.

Sounds as if you are on a browning/blueing roll so:

A wooden 'browning box' is a good idea. A tray of water and light bulb will speed and make for an even finish. The water if for humidity and the light bulb is for heat. Different wattage bulbs produce different levels of 'heat'. A thermometer is a good idea.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 10:09 am 
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Daryl wrote:
Sounds as if you are on a browning/blueing roll so:


Maybe so...might have started a new hobby...at least it works with the current one eh? :lol:

Will be practicing on an old barrel or two I don't care about before I attempt the LW...no way do I want to mess that one up. :cry: It's plugging the transfer port that's giving me fits...might try a really long plug for the breech end, or might try using two plugs (breech and transfer port), but have doubts they'll stay put...OR...perhaps just not bluing that small section of the barrel???? Hmmm..A wrap of tape might do it...if the boiling doesn't remove it. Tape coming off would be a non issue if I rusted several times and boiled once as you suggested. Might give the tape a try as the breech end is hidden in the receiver anyway...just doesn't sit right to leave it bare though.

Coffee...need more coffee. :rolleyes:

Am really thinking the electrolysis rust removal method for barrels...it removes rust in a "line of sight" way from one object...and deposits a layer of rust on another object...also line of sight. If it works like it's supposed to, it wouldn't deposit any rust in the bore....although plugs are a logical precaution and would be used.

Solution for the above is water and washing soda @ 1 Tbsp/gallon. Uses a low amp battery charger for power. That 2240 barrel will likely get the nod once more as "guinea pig".

If I continue using the current solution of Hydrogen peroxide/White vinegar/sea salt, I will be building myself a browning box for sure. Have seen several while researching rust bluing. :)

I do appreciate your interest and suggestions...thanks. :)

Al


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