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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 1:06 pm 
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I've been into airguns for about two years now and I think I've learned a lot of stuff however I have no idea what the basic airgun maintenance is.
Can somebody please teach me?

I know all about Crosman's Pellgun oil, it's purpose and when it should be used. What about the oil used within the chamber of spring powered airguns? It's different isn't? a synthetic with a lower flashpoint? How often should it be used and what do you use on a NP piston?
http://www.crosman.com/prostaff-picks/PROPICK019

When you purchase a new airgun I know that you should tighten all the hardware. Should I also clean the barrel? and how? A brass brush shouldn't be necessary should it?

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 2:29 pm 
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For piston chambers, use Crosman Chamber Silicone Oil. It has a higher flashpoint so it will not diesel when the chamber heats up from compression. 1-2 drops every 500 shots is recommended for spring/nitro piston guns.

For a new airgun, just check the barrel for any factory gunk and clean it if present. Airgun barrels don't suffer from powder fouling, so it isn't necessary to clean the barrel on a schedule. Only do so when the accuracy drops. A brass brush is not needed, just use a plastic brush and a few cleaning patches.

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 3:19 pm 
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http://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/topic54887.html?hilit=Dewey
This should help! Helped me!

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 4:29 pm 
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Since your question is on basic maintenance I will make a few suggestions for this.
1. Yes, periodically tighten all stock bolts. Alternatively remove stock bolts clean threads external and internal with solvent, put a drop of blue locktite on external threads and reinstall stock bolts tight. Let them sit for 24 hrs to cure - no more problem with loosening stock bolts. But wait.... if you are going to do some advanced maintenance, do it first then locktite the stock bolts. Advanced maintenance may see you loosening the breech bolt, and cleaning it up and locktiting it as well... a good thing to do IMO.
2. Don't use a hard cleaning rod in the bore. Use a pull through line, like a crown saver, or make one out of weed whacker line and pull 1" squares of old cotton T-shirts through. Lube the first 10 patches with Goo-Gone, then use dry patches until they come out squaky clean (not really but they should be clean).
Do this when the gun is new. Sometimes I clean it first..., sometimes I have to "try it now" when it first arrives so I put 50-100 pellets through it. Then I clean it. After that a few dry patches every 3-5 tins and that should be good. If it starts suddenly shooting wild, clean the bore with Goo-Gone again.
3. Don't put anything into the compression chamber if the gun has a synthetic piston seal, it doesn't require lubrication. Leather seals do require lubrication, silicone oil is the right stuff for them, couple drops every 2nd tin should be good.
4. Wipe the outside down with SAE30 or other preservative oily rag after each shoot. Polish your stock occasionally.
5. Keep shooting! it's the best thing for your gun!
:drinkers:

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 6:55 pm 
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30 weight motor oil you say??

Used break free forever since it was US Military issue.

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 8:01 pm 
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rrdstarr wrote:
30 weight motor oil you say??

Used break free forever since it was US Military issue.


I use Ballistol on the exterior of all my Firearms and Airguns. Excellent product. 8)

http://www.ballistol.com/

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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 10:28 am 
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Quote:
Dukemeister wrote
4. Wipe the outside down with SAE30 or other preservative oily rag after each shoot. Polish your stock occasionally.


Quote:
scruffie wrote
use Ballistol on the exterior of all my Firearms and Airguns. Excellent product.


For a long time, I was also wiping my steel guns using special oily rugs after shooting. A few years ago at one occasion I looked at the barrel surface under the light and I noticed a reddish appearance on the surface. I checked all my guns and each and everyone of them had the same reddish appearance at the steel surfaces. Obviously, it was a damn iron oxide meaning rust. Then I ordered Ballistol, took a piece of white cotton cloth and for a few long hours I was rubbing all my guns with Ballistol. After a while each originally white cloth became red with rust removed from steel. I did it until the last piece of cloth was nearly white. Since then I always rub Ballistol on the steel surfaces afer every shooting. There is nothing better than Ballistol for rust.


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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 1:06 pm 
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rav wrote:
Quote:
scruffie wrote
use Ballistol on the exterior of all my Firearms and Airguns. Excellent product.


There is nothing better than Ballistol for rust.

I have heard good thinks about Ballistol, so if you have some then use it. I also heard it stinks ... but anyhow I have SAE30 and use it and although it is better than nothing... the collective wisdom says Ballistol is the stuff and I don't doubt it for a moment!

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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 1:23 pm 
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The only precaution I hear about Ballistol is not to use it on any metal (chrome/nickel/silver..etc) plated surfaces. Apparently, it might eat through it.

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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 9:43 pm 
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Quote:
TriggerHappy416 wrote
The only precaution I hear about Ballistol is not to use it on any metal (chrome/nickel/silver..etc) plated surfaces. Apparently, it might eat through it.



I wasn’t perhaps clear in my post. When I say “steel surface” I mean regular blued gun steel not plated. I guess that using Ballistol on plated surfaces would be a bit excessive? They are resistant to rust, anyways, so wiping them with a piece of cloth should be sufficient.


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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 10:01 pm 
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Tonight I bought some weed whacker line, 0.065 cal, to use as a pull line. I'll try using the Goo Gone cleaner with some small patches of cloth to clean the barrels of my airguns. I'll refrain from putting any gun oil on them.

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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 8:22 am 
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Quote:
SureShot wrote
I'll try using the Goo Gone cleaner with some small patches of cloth to clean the barrels of my airguns.


Do you have any reason to believe that the barrels are "dirty"? Like sudden drop in accuracy or something similar? If not then what's the point in cleaning airgun barrels at all?


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:56 am 
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rav wrote:
Do you have any reason to believe that the barrels are "dirty"? Like sudden drop in accuracy or something similar? If not then what's the point in cleaning airgun barrels at all?


I'm going to clean mine in the hopes that it is dirty, and I'm not just a slightly crappy shot!

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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:58 am 
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If you use goo gone as a barrel degreaser what stops the carbon steel barrels from rusting in the bore? Maybe putting some lubed pellets down the pipe would aid in fighting surface rust.

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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 8:47 am 
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rav wrote:
Do you have any reason to believe that the barrels are "dirty"? Like sudden drop in accuracy or something similar? If not then what's the point in cleaning airgun barrels at all?

No actually I think all my airguns are shooting well it's just that I've often read here on the forum about people cleaning their new airguns the moment they take them out of the box to clean out factory residue. I guess you could say I'm doing preventative maintenance.

What exactly is Ballistol and where do you think I can buy it locally? at an automotive shop? It sounds like Ballistol is a water displacer like WD40.
Also there appears to be three types of Ballistol; Lube, Sportsman's Oil and Multi Purpose.

Directly from the Ballistol website; "FIREARMS - Cleans & dissolves traces of copper, lead, brass, zinc, & tombac. Lubricates & protects firearms, lock, stock & barrel. Forms a film that protects against rust. Will never gum-up or harden. Ideal for pistol grips, & rifle stocks."

I won't use gun cleaner fluid in an airgun because it's likely corrosive. I'm thinking of using Goo Gone cleaner to clean the barrels and Hoppes lubricating gun oil to prevent rust.

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