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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 10:49 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
Ace wrote:
Go buy yourself a proper cleaning kit and push it out from the other end don't try and push it through there not expensive paid $10 for a kit from Le Barons comes with everything you will need cleaning patch's and all well worth the $10 youl be glad you got it.


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No distrespect meant, Ace, but jointed (screw together) rods, usually aluminum, are responsible for wrecking more bores than not. The joints flex open slightly and abrade the lands as teh rod flexes as it's shoved down the bore, especially in softer steel barrels.
If one used a cleaning rod, it should be one piece and of tool, ie: high carbon steel, correctly hardened and tempered.

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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 11:00 pm 
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Kim's use of a sort of 'worm' ie; a threaded piece of material to pull out pieces of cloth, is similar to a tool used by muzzleloader shooters to pull the patch stuck in the bore, or a ball if wanting to "pull the load".
I personally would 'repair' to a decent gun shop and purchase the KleenBore blew plastic coated spring steel air rifle cleaning rod. The rod comes with a jag. Also available are plastic brushes for introducing solvents into the bore - useful for CF or RF .17's but not for air rifles. You can find a screw to fit - might be a #4 or #3 steel machine screw - I can't remember the exact size and cut the head off, then solder on a wood screw that is about 1/2 bore size, of file wood screw type 'threads' onto it, with a cone point - ie: make it look like a wood screw on the end. Shove this into the fabric, wind it in and pull out the cloth.

These are "worms", designed for pulling patches. A tapered to a point, screw shape also works.
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 11:14 pm 
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Interesting, I'm not sure if there are any decent airgun shops around here but I'll see what I can find. Tomorrow I'm picking up some welding rod, I'm starting to wonder if I can find a long screw that is softer than the barrel, and file all the threads off save the tip.

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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 11:18 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
Daryl wrote:
Ace wrote:
Go buy yourself a proper cleaning kit and push it out from the other end don't try and push it through there not expensive paid $10 for a kit from Le Barons comes with everything you will need cleaning patch's and all well worth the $10 youl be glad you got it.


Image


No distrespect meant, Ace, but jointed (screw together) rods, usually aluminum, are responsible for wrecking more bores than not. The joints flex open slightly and abrade the lands as teh rod flexes as it's shoved down the bore, especially in softer steel barrels.
If one used a cleaning rod, it should be one piece and of tool, ie: high carbon steel, correctly hardened and tempered.


X2!
Used Dewey coated rods since 1980. We used those on the US Army marksmanship team(AMTU).

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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 11:30 pm 
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Daryl wrote:
No distrespect meant, Ace, but jointed (screw together) rods, usually aluminum, are responsible for wrecking more bores than not. The joints flex open slightly and abrade the lands as teh rod flexes as it's shoved down the bore, especially in softer steel barrels.
If one used a cleaning rod, it should be one piece and of tool, ie: high carbon steel, correctly hardened and tempered.



Fair enough Dale and I totally understand your point but I personally have never had a problem with this kit and so far it's done its job for me and has gotten me out of a couple jams. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 am 
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A word of caution about Dewey .17cal. rods. I have 2 and will use neither again. I had one for patches and one with a plastic brush for applying solvent. The plastic coating on the rods was cut quickly by the rifling and worn off in several spots. Their .17 rods are very soft and non-hardened they bend and stay bent. Dewey's larger calibre rods are excellent. I have one for .35 and larger calibres and it is a super rod, none better - so good we used it as a lead lapping rod for a couple muzzle loading rifles that needed some inside work.
So far, in .17cal. the KleenBore rods have proven to be the best to me. Some of the CF .17 shooters are using Tipton rods. The .17 cal. CF and RF rifle barrels only have .002" rifling depth too, and are easily injured with a rod that over flexes.

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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 3:44 am 
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Those Tipton's cleaning rods are nice and not that much more then Dewey! Carbon Fibre, might have to order one!
http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.com/tipton/catalog.asp?family=deluxe-cleaning-rods

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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 9:30 am 
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I've thought time and again of getting a Tipton rod too, Rick, but the bare carbon makes me edgy in my tiny .17 cal barrels. I guess time will tell and if they prove abrasive, I'll find out before buying one myself. For now, I'll stay with the coated spring steel KleenBore rods. They do not take other maker's 'parts', due to their 'fine' thread.

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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 11:31 pm 
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IT'S CLEAR!!! I picked up some bronze welding rod from Princess Auto after work, lots of careful hammering and some Goo Gone later, and I can see through the barrel! I made a huge mess as the rod was coated in some kind of hard but fragile coating that seemed to turn to mush when it hit the Goo Gone? So now the barrel really needs to be cleaned but at least now it's possible to do that properly. Oh and the cotton seems to have disappeared, Im not sure if the Goo Gone ate it or something but it seems to be MIA. Oh well.

Huge thanks to everyone who helped out and gave me tips and advice, you guys saved me having to buy a new gun so if I ever meet any of you in person I owe you a beer.

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peaceriverguy wrote:
Airguns are like cats. People think that they'll be fine alone, but they really need company. And don't you want your airguns to be happy?


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 11:40 pm 
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Glad it cleared okay!
Where do you live at? I have five hours left on my shift and could use a LARGE Rum and Coke!!!!

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Brocock Concept .22
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Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:06 am 
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I'm in Kelowna and I think I've got just enough Bacardi Oakheart left to make a couple good strong rum n cokes, so swing by anytime!

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Crosman 760 Pumpmaster w/original Crosman 4x20

peaceriverguy wrote:
Airguns are like cats. People think that they'll be fine alone, but they really need company. And don't you want your airguns to be happy?


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:14 am 
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Probably next summer we will be headed through that way! :D

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Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:27 am 
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Sounds good! Shoot me a message before you head up and I'll be sure I've got plenty of rum (it has a nasty habit of disappearing on me :drinkers: )

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Crosman Phantom .22 w/CenterPoint AR22 4x32
Crosman 760 Pumpmaster w/original Crosman 4x20

peaceriverguy wrote:
Airguns are like cats. People think that they'll be fine alone, but they really need company. And don't you want your airguns to be happy?


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:04 am 
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underscore wrote:
... I made a huge mess as the rod was coated in some kind of hard but fragile coating that seemed to turn to mush when it hit the Goo Gone? So now the barrel really needs to be cleaned but at least now it's possible to do that properly. Oh and the cotton seems to have disappeared, Im not sure if the Goo Gone ate it or something but it seems to be MIA. Oh well.


Careful with the cleaning. The coating on the rod is a flux to shield the molten "weld" metal from atmosphere - it is likely a ceramic and abrasive to the barrel, could even be corrosive. You probably want to take the barrel of the action and give it a good wash out at this point. Flush out the barrel with lots of water before you pull anything through it. Then Goo Gone, and oily patch - dry patch, etc...
Glad you got it cleared! :drinkers:

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:32 am 
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Agree wholeheartedly - flux's can be nasty and sometimes inert, BUT! They not only produce a shield to protect the weld location from oxygen, but they also clean the surfaces, which is where the corrosive properties lay. They may take heat to activate - or perhaps not. Please follow Duke's suggestion on cleaning it well.

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