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 Post subject: Trigger Polishing
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:29 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: New Brunswick
I've read a lot of posts about various airguns and the polishing of their triggers. Exactly what airguns benefit the most from trigger polishing?
I have a 1377 and a 2240, I expect that they could use work. Is it the trigger sear that is polished?
I seem to remember reading that you can buy an adjustable trigger for the 2240.
Heck, the 2240 has unlimited number of mods doesn't?

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 Post subject: Re: Trigger Polishing
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 6:37 pm 
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Location: New Brunswick
Okay, I found some info just by Googling 2240 trigger polishing;
http://www.americanairgunhunter.com/crosman7.html

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 Post subject: Re: Trigger Polishing
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 11:27 pm
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It decreases friction (or inconsistent friction) making the trigger pull lighter and more crisp and predictable.

Yes, the 22xx 13xx platform has many mods, but some of them are not worth the cost/effort

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 Post subject: Re: Trigger Polishing
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:25 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
I can do them if you are interested in shipping them to me!! Ask Edmonton<500 how good his trigger is on a 2240 I just built for him.

Getting the contact surfaces polished to a mirror. Important! Getting contact surfaces square to each other. Important!! Changing out to a lighter spring. Also installing a guide for the sear spring!

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 Post subject: Re: Trigger Polishing
PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:50 am 
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Location: New Brunswick
I think I'll begin with ordering a longer barrel, perhaps a .177 and a .22 then dismantle my 1377 & 2240 to examine the condition of the stock triggers. I'm expecting them to be made from stamped steel and not been polished at all.

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 Post subject: Re: Trigger Polishing
PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:15 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:43 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Calif
It depends on how bad the manufacturer made the sear surfaces.
If it is simply stamped out of steel and not finished, there will be many burrs and rough surface on the load bearing surface.
If the mating part on the hammer is similarly poorly made, the rough surfaces will catch and hold on to each other, and the trigger will appear to be stuck.
This will decrease your accuracy, as you will end up paying attention to the rough gritty trigger, rather than paying attention to the target and sight picture.

The first part of polishing is to deburr and smoothen the load bearing surfaces, so nothing catches.
The final part is to "polish" the load bearing surfaces so the sear slides smoothly.

You have to use a hard flat tool to do this. Either progressively fine honing/sharpening stone or sandpaper on a flat tool. For sandpaper, start with #1000 and go finer. And work SLOWLY, once you remove metal, you can't put it back. Do NOT use a Dremel buffing/polishing wheel. You have no control over keeping the bearing surface FLAT, and can easily create a wavy surface. As rrdstarr said, keep the contact surfaces square to each other. Do not change the angles of the load bearing surfaces or the shape of the edge of the sear, where it releases.

But it is not only the load bearing surfaces.
You have to look at all the surfaces that the trigger mechanism slides against.
The sides of the sear and trigger (one side of a stamped part usually has burrs sticking out), the inside of the frame where the parts slide against, shafts that the trigger and sear pivot on, the inside of the hole in the sear, etc. All should be smoothened out as much as possible to remove manufacturing flaws, so all the parts of the trigger moves smoothly.

Shortening the sear as shown in the link has to be done with EXTREME care. You need to leave enough material to safely and securely hold the hammer. Leave too little and the hammer could slip off the sear when the gun is bumped. Take off too much and the sear will not hold the hammer. If you decide to do this, order a few spare sears from Crosman, in case you need to replace a mistake.


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