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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:55 pm 
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Location: Toronto
Decided to start this project as it will take a while based on access to shop tools etc....

Ripped an old table leaf (hard wood but veneered...who knew) and lamenated them to get full 1.5 inch to match the old stock.

Did the rough profile cut out..I made it a little longer LOP since that seems to help my bum shoulder and will try some form of mild cheek rest. I know already it will present the sights lower when on the shoulder as the peace was about a 1/2 inch shallower top to bottom than original stock but if it is too low I will put a scope on the old buddy...or try again!

I have left the fore end longer so to help prevent splitting when routing in I figure.

I also intend to do all the straight through drilling then routing/carving out and leave the shaping for last once I make sure it fits the metal. Seems prudent. I would be interested on where to get a butt pad eventually.

Certainly will try again anyhow as this will have a line down the middle from the 2 layers of lamenate meeting but this is good for now as it helps by given me a true centre line reference for shaping. Plus if it works half way ok i have a crosman with plastic stock I want to try to wooden up.

Anyhow this is just to work out how to make one without wasting a real piece of nice hardwood. Who knows it may just look cool.

Please any tips from those who have done this before are requested and most welcome!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:07 pm 
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Location: England.
Need to inlet the blank first or you will have trouble.
Fit action in and work from that in block form, easy to hold and handle.
Shapings the easy bit. All lengths and feel comes from trigger, you wont be able to get butt length the way you and others do it that way, pot luck.

Same with off the shelf pattern stocks and a vast variety of differing actions to fit in to. No square edges to work from spells disaster. Takes longer to put them right than make a new one.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:38 pm 
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Yes I planned to keep it square until the gun (action) is properly seated so thanks for confirming the plan there.

Just to be clear though you are saying it would be better next time to even leave the butt long until the trigger is affixed then take the length of pull and butt contour after that? That makes perfect sense now that you mention it if that is what you meant.

Thansk for the feed back Jon.

Murray

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Keep you powder dry and your seals oiled.
Shoot straight and safe.

http://plinkercases.ca/


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:55 am
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Location: England.
Certainly if you are doing it for yourself its better to inlet action in to a rectangular block with two working edges top and a working side if using a router.
Done on mill
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728 ... 863494.jpg

Cutout for trigger or leave exposed.
With that done all measurements and 'feel' come from the trigger in conjunction with pistol grip.
Unless other stock feels ok I wouldn't pattern off it, make it up as you go along. You cant put wood back on.

Obviously a degree of cutting required before you can get a feel and limited where the trigger is.
Inlet the guard.
Finish the pistol grip don't half do it else you will go round and round in circles thinking its other things when it could be the shaping of it.
At this point you can get a good idea of butt length, I would get it close.
Next could reduce height of cheek and shape it.
By now may still feel heavy but start to feel good.

Forgot to mention and more so with springers you may have to alter the angle ie diagonally along the plank prior to inletting. You want a horizontal or curved to grip grain through pistol grip.

It don't matter what wood you use it takes about same effort.
Lumber yard woods not the best kiln dried, usually harder to work with than the grown, felled, cut and quarted stuff from Oregon.

Customer supplied this lumber yard stuff for an original hand made 1983 MDS. Didn't want to do it and no idea how he talked me in to it. Only two piccies to work from and had to conform with how it would have originally been made and looked.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728 ... 643888.jpg


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 5:14 pm 
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Location: Toronto
Wow thank you Jon.
Do you mind if I PM you along the way if I have questions?

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Shoot straight and safe.

http://plinkercases.ca/


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