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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2013 6:31 pm
Posts: 7
Has Anyone had experience with bugbuster 3-9x scope ?
i have this scope on my heavily modded 1377. 24 inch barrel steel breech metal barrel band hollow probe etc.. I always thought bad shot groups was fault of the gun, since this scope was a pretty descent and had a fine reputation.

this is what happened today:

I zero in my scope, it shoots one holer group for 3 pellets and 1 flyer downwards by 0.4 inch (from distance of 7.5 meters).
Next one shoots downwards 0.3 inch.
Next one shoots where I zeroed in.
Next one shoots downwards 0.5 inch
then all the pellets start shooting downwards at about 0.4-0.5 inch.
I locked the dials and scope rings and breech arent moving. This is only at 8 7.5 meters.

I had this scope and this modded 1377 for 3 months now. I always was a little suspicious of the scope because sometimes when I moved the dial around, and put it back to its same position, the POI would change. also, there were many cases where I would try to zero in the scope but POI wouldn't move even when I turn the dial. Like pellet shooting 0.5 inch above the cross hair, I turn dial downwards by 10 dials and it would still hit 0.5 inches above, So I turn it down another 10, same. turn another by 10, then all of a sudden pellet drops 1 inch below the cross hair. As if dial was stuck, then all 30 dials were moved at the sametime or something.
Sometimes the zero would stay well once I zero it in. But I always got no better than 0.6 inch group from 14meters at a perfect rest and 1lb trigger pull even with my best shooting pellet JSB match diabolo. I get at least 2 flyers in 8 shot group.

P.S I did not use up all the dials . There are many dials left for left/right up/down
I tried flipping scope rings


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:35 pm
Posts: 329
Location: S.W. Ontario
The phenomenon you described is caused by or due to “stiction” of the moving parts. In other words, the erector tube cannot overcome the friction inherent to the moving parts of the scope until a “jolt” helped it overcome that friction and allowed it to move to the new position you have adjusted it to. This is actually quite common with cheap scopes (at least in the old days). After you make your adjustment next time, try to tap the turret a couple of times and see if that help. You can check out the following article by Tom Gaylord to get a better understanding of that.

http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2013/09/ ... cs-part-1/


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2013 6:31 pm
Posts: 7
POI wrote:
The phenomenon you described is caused by or due to “stiction” of the moving parts. In other words, the erector tube cannot overcome the friction inherent to the moving parts of the scope until a “jolt” helped it overcome that friction and allowed it to move to the new position you have adjusted it to. This is actually quite common with cheap scopes (at least in the old days). After you make your adjustment next time, try to tap the turret a couple of times and see if that help. You can check out the following article by Tom Gaylord to get a better understanding of that.

http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2013/09/ ... cs-part-1/


thanks for that article.
but do think bad groups/ flyers could be caused by a bad scope too?
Because now im aware 'stiction' maybe involved while zeroing my scope
But it that doesn't answer why there is occational poi shift and flyers


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:56 pm
Posts: 173
Location: Sidney, BC.
Why not try another scope to see if it does the same thing...if it does its not a scope issue...KEN.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:16 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:35 pm
Posts: 329
Location: S.W. Ontario
What you need to do is go through “the process of elimination” to isolate the cause of the flyers. Your 1377 has zero recoil to begin with so I doubt it’s making the reticle of your scope jump around. But, it’s part of the equation currently so remove the scope and shoot with iron sight since you are talking 7.5 yd. only. I can give you a few typical factors to evaluate (by no means a complete list) as followed :

1. Pellets – visually check to make sure they all look good. Go with JSB if you have some.
2. A good shooting rest to reduce your wobble zone. This is not the time to shoot unsupported.
3. Dry fire a few times to see if your POA stays on target i.e. no issues with trigger control (don’t know if you are familiar with good shooting technique and follow through etc.)
4. If you cannot shoot with iron sight, you can try with a proven scope even if it may not focus down to such close distance. Your sight picture will be a little fuzzy but it will still work. Just make sure you have the same eye-scope position and the parallax error should be less than 0.5”.
5. If flyers are not there anymore, remount your bug buster and repeat the process.


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