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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:48 pm 
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Posts: 37
Location: Kelowna, BC
So far, so good! The JB Weld has been curing for about 13hrs...I put everything back together (I'm becoming something of a 2100 ninja now)...put a couple of pumps in and...NO HISS!
She's holding air again and is just as ridonkulously accurate as I remember. I love my MPPs :heart:
Once the JB has cured for at least 24hrs I'll put a full 10 pumps in and see how it goes.

...on that note, anyone want to send me a chrony for real cheap? :D

EverHopeful wrote:
Interesting. One thing - is there anything else anchoring the original valve in place, or was it held by the stem of the relief valve? If so, you might need to add a screw or two to hold it in place.


At this point, the only thing holding it in place is the breech-side transfer port as it extends down into the valve a bit. You're right though...prior to this the relief valve helped to hold it in place from the underside. How do the new models keep the valve in place?

Woody wrote:
I have seen quite a few of these. I usually just take out the guts of the relief valve and soldered the hole shut as mentioned.
If you look at the bottom of the 2100 and I think the 2200 there is a small hole on the bottom of the reciever. That hole is where the exhaust of the reliefe valve is.


I had considered doing this, but that would have involved acquiring the tiny o-ring to seal the relief valve (I'm assuming that's where my leak came from). Quite frankly, I'm feeling lazy as hell this week, so the epoxy method won. :)
Also...THANK YOU! I had always wondered what that little hole on the bottom was for...

AirGunEric wrote:
Son of a bit#h- that is another variation valve you have- the one I was talking about has a different check valve with an o-ring over it. Based on yours having delrin in there, it must be some sort of mid-version, between the original brass valve and the aluminum versions.


Leave it to my father to buy the really random variant of...well, anything. :lol:


Seriously though...thanks SO much for everyone's input. I'm ecstatic to be part of such a great forum!

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Crosman 2100 (from my childhood in the 80's...in the process of fixing her up)
Crosman 2200 Magnum || Crosman 1377 || Crosman 357 || Umarex XBG


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:01 pm 
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Glad to hear it's working again! A chrony is really useful - well worth getting.

Quote:
How do the new models keep the valve in place?


I'm fairly new to this, so I can only speak to the 1377 - that uses a screw into the valve from the bottom, and also there's a cut in the tube which is pushed inwards to form a back-stop for the valve.

Quote:
I'm ecstatic to be part of such a great forum!


Heh, welcome to your new addiction. Therapy starts immediately, but has never been successful.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:49 pm 
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EricTheRed wrote:
So far, so good! The JB Weld has been curing for about 13hrs...I put everything back together (I'm becoming something of a 2100 ninja now)...put a couple of pumps in and...NO HISS!!


thats great Eric i told you it would work, expect i decent increase in fps :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:25 pm 
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EricTheRed wrote:

I had considered doing this, but that would have involved acquiring the tiny o-ring to seal the relief valve (I'm assuming that's where my leak came from). Quite frankly, I'm feeling lazy as hell this week, so the epoxy method won. :)
Also...THANK YOU! I had always wondered what that little hole on the bottom was for...


The oring may have been easy to find at Canadian Tire or similar, not 100% sure if they have that size. Best bet is to get a kit when they come on sale at Princess Auto.

I have fixed one once with teflon tape wrapped over the oring and part that eos into the valve. Many ways to skin a cat.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:48 pm 
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Location: California USA
EricTheRed wrote:
...on that note, anyone want to send me a chrony for real cheap? :D
At this point, the only thing holding it in place is the breech-side transfer port as it extends down into the valve a bit. You're right though...prior to this the relief valve helped to hold it in place from the underside. How do the new models keep the valve in place?


For a useable cheap chrony, try SoftChrono.
http://talonairgun.com/softchrono/SoftChrono_beta1.ZIP
Use a remote mic and you don't have to worry about shooting your chrony. :mrgreen:

As far as valve retention, the valve stop in the tube and the T-port is all there is. :shock: Some people add a couple of screws at 90* to the T-port, especially when flat-topping. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:30 pm 
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Location: Winnipeg
Ahhhhh a good old bleed valve!!! I remember those from the 80's on my 760's, I can't remember if my 2200 had one. Back then my buddies and I would plug them until we found some screws my Dad had and used to replace the valve with a screw and O ring.


On a similar note, I couldn't figure out how a Canadian 1377 gets '495' but actually chronies at 420 and a US version gets 600. Since my 1322 gets 450 I couldn't figure out how they got the velocity down until I put a steel breech on my nephews 1377 and noticed the transfer port is tiny compared to the 1322.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:21 am 
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The Canadian 1377 not only has a restricted transfer port, they drilled a hole in the back of the valve that dumps air into the hammer area. Mine barely made 385 at 10 pumps out of the box with 8 gr pellets.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:12 am 
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Location: 123 gun street Nova Scotia
both of my guns had that in them , i just put a metal slug in the hole and silver soldered it in . it is one of the most complex bleeder/regulator holes ever im sure .


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:31 pm 
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Location: Kelowna, BC
Big Bore Bart wrote:
For a useable cheap chrony, try SoftChrono.
http://talonairgun.com/softchrono/SoftChrono_beta1.ZIP
Use a remote mic and you don't have to worry about shooting your chrony. :mrgreen:


Thanks for the link! I'm curious to try that out.

EverHopeful wrote:
The Canadian 1377 not only has a restricted transfer port, they drilled a hole in the back of the valve that dumps air into the hammer area. Mine barely made 385 at 10 pumps out of the box with 8 gr pellets.



I need to crack open my 1377 now...it suddenly won't hold air to save its life! I think it's jealous that I'm playing with my 2100 more these days...lol

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Crosman 2100 (from my childhood in the 80's...in the process of fixing her up)
Crosman 2200 Magnum || Crosman 1377 || Crosman 357 || Umarex XBG


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:46 pm 
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Just so there's no confusion with the 1377- that restricted transfer port is not the method for detuning- the .177 operates more efficiently with the smaller port. If anyone does a study of some of Bob's posts from a few years ago- he noted, repeatedly, that the smaller port actually improved velocity in .177 except in the most extreme modifications- i.e. 24" barrel, extended bolt probe, heavier hammer spring- anything less than the 24" barrel and the smaller port outperformed the larger port.

In .22 caliber, a small port does act as a restriction, but not in .177.

The 'detune' is the hole in the valve that vents a good amount of air out the rear on every shot. If the valve made fart sounds it would be all the more appropriate...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:56 pm 
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Ah, thanks for the correction. I hate to spread misinformation, and I may have just done that again.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 7:18 am 
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Location: Winnipeg
AirGunEric wrote:
Just so there's no confusion with the 1377- that restricted transfer port is not the method for detuning- the .177 operates more efficiently with the smaller port. If anyone does a study of some of Bob's posts from a few years ago- he noted, repeatedly, that the smaller port actually improved velocity in .177 except in the most extreme modifications- i.e. 24" barrel, extended bolt probe, heavier hammer spring- anything less than the 24" barrel and the smaller port outperformed the larger port.

In .22 caliber, a small port does act as a restriction, but not in .177.

The 'detune' is the hole in the valve that vents a good amount of air out the rear on every shot. If the valve made fart sounds it would be all the more appropriate...



Thanks Eric. I never dug into the 1377 to see if there were any other differences than the transfer port when I did the breech swap.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:18 am 
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Location: Ottawa : Canada
My 2200 has the restricter washer AND, the valve shaft that the hammer hits was ground square, thus allowing air past it.


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