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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 9:51 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:32 am
Posts: 966
Location: Montreal
Hello Friends of the Air,

I have put about 7 hand rubbed coats of boiled linseed oïl on the stock, and then I used some beeswax to finish.
I feel I could get more out of the wood, can I just continue with the linseed oïl or should I clean off the wax with something and continue?
My goal is to get the most out of this wood..

Any advice would be appreciated..

Thanks..

_________________
" Only problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other peoples money"

HW 95 .22 Hawke 3-12x44 , Tuned by Motorhead
HW98 .177 Viper 4-16x50
BSA Ultra .22 MTC Mamba Lite 3-12-44, Regulated and tuned by The Rat Works, UK..


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 10:27 am 
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Location: Alberta Canada
newlife wrote:
Hello Friends of the Air,

I have put about 7 hand rubbed coats of boiled linseed oïl on the stock, and then I used some beeswax to finish.
I feel I could get more out of the wood, can I just continue with the linseed oïl or should I clean off the wax with something and continue?
My goal is to get the most out of this wood..

Any advice would be appreciated..

Thanks..

My question to is prior to you putting your oil upon your stock. Did you wipe the stock with a wet cloth? In doing so would help swell the grain pronouncing its form. Pics would be great. That way others could also present options to you.

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May the cry of the pack be with you upon your hunt

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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 10:36 am 
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Location: Montreal
No I did not wipe it with a wet cloth,,and I am pic disadvantaged, sorry..

_________________
" Only problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other peoples money"

HW 95 .22 Hawke 3-12x44 , Tuned by Motorhead
HW98 .177 Viper 4-16x50
BSA Ultra .22 MTC Mamba Lite 3-12-44, Regulated and tuned by The Rat Works, UK..


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 1:00 pm 
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Location: Alberta Canada
newlife wrote:
No I did not wipe it with a wet cloth,,and I am pic disadvantaged, sorry..

If your lookin for a high luster stock may I suggest wet sanding your finish with 600 to 800 grit paper. Then find a bottle of Linspeed finishing oil. Its linseed based but has driers in it to help bring up the luster of a finish.

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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:32 am
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Location: Montreal
Thanks for the linspeed, luster is a good thing but what I would like is a more detailed grain showing, maybe I need to go back to zero and use some other system.

_________________
" Only problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other peoples money"

HW 95 .22 Hawke 3-12x44 , Tuned by Motorhead
HW98 .177 Viper 4-16x50
BSA Ultra .22 MTC Mamba Lite 3-12-44, Regulated and tuned by The Rat Works, UK..


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:05 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
newlife wrote:
Thanks for the linspeed, luster is a good thing but what I would like is a more detailed grain showing, maybe I need to go back to zero and use some other system.



Unfortunately you have to strip and start over! You have to raise the grain with water as Kim said to get the most out of what the stock has to offer in colour and figure!

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Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:32 am
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Location: Montreal
Thanks, I don`t mind restarting this project, how do I strip the stock? Thanks.

_________________
" Only problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other peoples money"

HW 95 .22 Hawke 3-12x44 , Tuned by Motorhead
HW98 .177 Viper 4-16x50
BSA Ultra .22 MTC Mamba Lite 3-12-44, Regulated and tuned by The Rat Works, UK..


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:25 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
newlife wrote:
Thanks, I don`t mind restarting this project, how do I strip the stock? Thanks.


Both chemically and sandpaper. You'll need to look on the web, my brain is a little full of alcohol right now and I don't want to tell you the wrong thing! :oops:

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-Rick
Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 12:07 am 
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Location: Stavely, Alberta
To get all of the oil out of a stock I use Oven Cleaner and it works really well

Spray on a couple of times rinsing off between coats. Once you are happy that the cleaner has sucked all of the oil out of the stock, you are good to go.

Wet the stock thourougly and allow it to dry. I usually start with 600 grit sandpaper. This job cannot be rushed. Rub the stock down WITH THE GRAIN. using the 600 sand paper. When the stock feels nice and smooth all over, wash all of the residual sanding dust off it thouroughly and allow it to dry again. Repeat the above steps using 800, 1200, 1600 and 2000's sandpapers then use 0000 grade wire wool (or the 3M Synthetic kind)

Now you are ready for some finish. If you are going to apply finish without staining the wood, then go ahead and hand rub the oil of your choice. I have used Boiled Linseed oil with excellent results. Recently I have used a product call Lin-Speed oil which is made specifically for gun stocks and will give the same finish as 10 applications of Linseed Oil with only 2 coats.

If you decide to stain the stock, be sure to use some Minwax Conditioner before you apply the stain. This product conditions the wood and ensures the stain is absorbed into the wood uniformly.

Here is the final and most important stage IMHO.

When you are satisfied with the oil finish and the oil is no longer being drawn into the woods grain. Wipe off as much of the excess oil as you can with a lint free rag and let the stock stand in a WARM PLACE for a few days to make sure that the oil is dry.

I then use a SOFT.buffing wheel with 3 different grades of wax to buff the living bejeebers out of the wood. I bought the wax sticks from Lee Valley and they are in the woodturning section of their website.

The finish is truly spectacular.and is as hard as a whores heart (as they say) :D

Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

DaveD

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:32 am
Posts: 966
Location: Montreal
Dave D.

Truly , thanks for your time and patience to put all that info down. I have it printed out and am going to do what you recommend. Scary about the oven cleaner though.... :shock:

_________________
" Only problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other peoples money"

HW 95 .22 Hawke 3-12x44 , Tuned by Motorhead
HW98 .177 Viper 4-16x50
BSA Ultra .22 MTC Mamba Lite 3-12-44, Regulated and tuned by The Rat Works, UK..


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 10:31 pm 
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Location: Alberta Canada
Actually newlife oven cleaner is not as harmful to you vs chemical paint strippers those are nasty.
Like Dave pointed out upon the sand paper grits. Get wet sandpaper and wet sand the stock. The mud you create with the sanding dust and water will fill and raise the grain. It will also cut down upon the amount of oil required to finish the sealing process upon the walnut. Beg borrow or steal :lol: a camera so we may see your creation come to life.

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May the cry of the pack be with you upon your hunt

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 10:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:22 pm
Posts: 2394
Location: Stavely, Alberta
newlife wrote:
Dave D.

Truly , thanks for your time and patience to put all that info down. I have it printed out and am going to do what you recommend. Scary about the oven cleaner though.... :shock:


Just make sure you follow ALL of the safety protocols. Good thick rubber gloves, Well ventilated area and good eye protection.

You'll be fine. :wink:

Here are a few pics of how the Walnut stock that I made for my Ripley turned out

topic48905.html?hilit=Ripley

DaveD :D

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 12:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 7:42 am
Posts: 4080
Location: Somewhere In Time
blade57 wrote:
To get all of the oil out of a stock I use Oven Cleaner and it works really well

Spray on a couple of times rinsing off between coats. Once you are happy that the cleaner has sucked all of the oil out of the stock, you are good to go.

Wet the stock thourougly and allow it to dry. I usually start with 600 grit sandpaper. This job cannot be rushed. Rub the stock down WITH THE GRAIN. using the 600 sand paper. When the stock feels nice and smooth all over, wash all of the residual sanding dust off it thouroughly and allow it to dry again. Repeat the above steps using 800, 1200, 1600 and 2000's sandpapers then use 0000 grade wire wool (or the 3M Synthetic kind)

Now you are ready for some finish. If you are going to apply finish without staining the wood, then go ahead and hand rub the oil of your choice. I have used Boiled Linseed oil with excellent results. Recently I have used a product call Lin-Speed oil which is made specifically for gun stocks and will give the same finish as 10 applications of Linseed Oil with only 2 coats.

If you decide to stain the stock, be sure to use some Minwax Conditioner before you apply the stain. This product conditions the wood and ensures the stain is absorbed into the wood uniformly.

Here is the final and most important stage IMHO.

When you are satisfied with the oil finish and the oil is no longer being drawn into the woods grain. Wipe off as much of the excess oil as you can with a lint free rag and let the stock stand in a WARM PLACE for a few days to make sure that the oil is dry.

I then use a SOFT.buffing wheel with 3 different grades of wax to buff the living bejeebers out of the wood. I bought the wax sticks from Lee Valley and they are in the woodturning section of their website.

The finish is truly spectacular.and is as hard as a whores heart (as they say) :D

Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

DaveD


X2 Excellent info Dave

I will be trying to make myself a pistol grip and cheek rest in the near future, so this will prove quite useful 8)

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