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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:36 am
Posts: 2220
Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
yup,
so all is well shooting the new hatsan mod 33. i am about halfway down a 500 tin. when....
my barrel won't close anymore!!! :shock:

i just oiled the "plunger" metal tab that sticks out. i never turned it or anything.
the post locks on a pins that travels across the bottom of the reciver.

when i try and close it, it won't and i don't want to bend the pin.
it still pushes in by hand, but won't work when you try and close the barrel.

what should i do?.
i bought it from better buy sports, not long ago (couple weeks).

i have never had this happen before on any of the springers i have had.

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my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 7:54 pm
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Location: Sk.
With a gun that new and a problem like that I would take it back.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:24 pm 
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Location: Central West River Nova Scotia
Ditto

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Use grease on the latch tip instead of oil, and let some motor oil seep down the sides of the latch so it lubes the hole it slides in. Don't use stuff like WD40 or similar, they aren't very good lubes.
Sometimes the surface of the latch can be rough, maybe even the bar too, if so sand it smooth with say 320-400 wet/dry. If it still doesn't work keep in mind that the latch isn't pushed straight in by the bar like when you use your finger, but it's pushed at an angle so there's a lot of friction between the body of the latch and bore it rides in. This is the reason to let oil seep in there. Ideally I take the latch out and sand the bore which is typically rather rough like it was drilled with a dull bit, then grease it and it works better and lasts longer. So try oiling/greasing, and if that doesn't work then remove it and sand the hole, or just return the gun. The way the latch typically comes out is by sliding out the sleeve in the barrel where the pivot bolt goes thru the barrel.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:03 pm 
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Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
yea, i found the receipt today. when i looked again in the box i noticed there was no registration card either.

i will try and return it, but what i have read about past returns from other people on the web....lets just say less than postive.

but i will find out wed night when i go to the store. wish me luck.
the gun will be less than 3 weeks old.

_________________
my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 2:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:31 pm
Posts: 696
Location: Halifax, NS
Try n speak to Walter when you get there, he might just resolve your issue with one look at it. (he is the in house smith)
In the least he will give you a fair shake as will the store manager; both nice people to deal with...
Good luck!

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...but, could Harry Potter's stick part the sea ?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
yea, i will report back tomorrow with news!!!

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my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 7:23 pm 
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Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
here's the facts
just got the gun back from Walter at better buy .
it now works.
but the lock up is still very hard. i have to often try a second time.
is this to tight for a lock up or is it ok? (besides being a pain in the butt)
i have to really work it from the very end of the barrel.

is there any way i can adjust the lock up, or is it good where it is ???

_________________
my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 3:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:31 pm
Posts: 696
Location: Halifax, NS
Your hands should not sting after repeated cocking of the rifle. If it is - then take it back. (unless of course you wanna tinker & if u do, drop in n I can help)
How does it compare to the other Hatsan Mod 33 they have there ?
If the alive jam has enough play, it might bind while moving. Must say; if you open the ag you will definitely void the warranty etc.
Best may be to ask for a new replacement - contingent upon your approval. sp if they have a few in stock.

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...but, could Harry Potter's stick part the sea ?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 6:08 am 
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Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
sadly,
this gun was the last one they had. i wasn't crazy about getting the floor model, but it was that or nothing.

they don't get to order the guns at the store, they wait and see what head office sends them. ( that's the way i understood it)

i still don't even know if the lock up being stiff like this is a bad thing. i know it a pain in the but.
it is at least three times harder to close than my phantom.

i want to keep this gun, because it seems to be able to get good groups, so i don't mind putting some work into it.
but this is a part of the gun i have never worked on before

ps: there is no taking it back now!!!! i epoxied a two pound diving weight in the rear of the synthetic stock. the rifle was very mussel heavy. it's great now!!! i have to print on paper to make sure it didn't effect accuracy in a bad way.

_________________
my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


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 Post subject: Q
PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:24 am
Posts: 331
I had something similar happen with my two-year-old Phantom, but don't know if it could be the same issue as yours.

I wanted to add Loctite to the two front stock mounting bolts. For the Loctite to hold better, I ran Q-tips soaked with solvent in the bolt holes, let it dry, then screwed in the Loctite coated bolts.

The bolt holes are right beside the detent mechanism, so perhaps solvent migrated into the mechanism or some of the Loctite did (even though I used very little).

The result was that after a while, cracking the gun open became much harder.

Luckily, just adding a drop of oil to the outside of the detent and the jam solved the situation.


Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
The latch usually gets easier with use, but I don't really know how bad yours is now. I've had guns that the barrel would bend before the latch releases if you were to just apply increasing pressure, but a sharp smack with your hand near the muzzle pops them right open. Closing is usually much easier but similar, deal; closing gently might take a lot of force so you swing the barrel and let the momentum do the work.
As some guns wear in they get too easy to open, so easy that the barrel will droop while aiming. Many guns can be opened simply by shaking the gun. So there are extremes and everything in between.
There is a spring behind the catch and it's very strong, but your problem is friction. If you weaken the spring then later as the gun becomes easier it will most certainly cause problems. Plus weakening the spring probably won't help much anyway because 80% of your problem is friction.
Glad you decided to keep it because cheap guns are a gamble in accuracy. Better to fix a good shooter than roll the dice on another.
Maybe just sit down while watching TV and cycle the latch over and over for a while.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 6:12 pm 
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Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
thanks. that's kinda more of the information i needed.

i have worked on a better technique now. so i believe i can use it daily now, but that being said...it is tight.

i thought maybe that spring might be too strong, but i will leave it now. and i don't believe i can increase the angle on the latch either.

_________________
my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Yea, I wouldn't mess with the angle unless all else fails. The latch surface for closing the barrel is ok to play with to ease closing, but the top surface that holds the barrel closed I would not change. Sanding either surface or the cross bar is fine, especially if they're galled from lack of lube or simply defective. A sanded surface makes for a faster break-in too, and it holds grease better. It's strange that you have more trouble closing than opening, it's normally the other way around due to the angle of the latch. I was also fairly sure some lube would've fixed or greatly improved it, but apparently not. I attached a couple pix from my tuning guide to maybe help better understand it. As you can see the hole the latch rides in can be very rough, and when the barrel opens/closes the pressure on the latch is more angular so the tail end wants to dig into that rough hole, and the edge of the hole into the body of the latch. The latch may have radial machining marks on the body and since the latch is harder it quickly smooths edge of the hole. The skirt needs to be beveled like in the pix, or rounded so it cannot dig into the bore. The pix shows the factory bevel which is usually fine, but I still round the edge of it so it can better surf over the bores surface. This point at the skirt might be your problem if the bore is too rough and/or the bevel too small. To get the latch out you remove the barrel, then while depressing the latch a little bit to take pressure off, you slide out the sleeve that the barrel pivot goes thru. That cutout in the middle of the catch is for that sleeve. Not all guns are just like the pix, which is of a Crosman btw, but this is a typical setup. The sleeve is removed and not shown in first pix, but it's in place and holding the catch in the second. The "dry lube" I use mentioned in the pix is Tungsten Disulfide. I HIGHLY recommend it for all guns and just about everything else that moves. It's $10 for 1oz in the US and an oz can probably do all your guns, car engines, and everything else you own. A couple sources:
http://reelschematic.com/isc/products/B ... owder.html
https://www.bulletcoatings.com/xcart/pr ... ctid=17515
Hope this helps...


Attachments:
Barrel catch.JPG
Barrel catch.JPG [ 77.59 KiB | Viewed 713 times ]
x.JPG
x.JPG [ 16.83 KiB | Viewed 713 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:36 am
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Location: Nova Scotia, near Halifax
thanks for all your replies
but this is just weird

so i got it back from being repaired.....
worked but lock up still tight

so the other night i was cleaning and lubing the rifle and i decided to oil the lock up a bit too
it stopped working again!!!!!
you can push it in by hand but not with the rifle action.

so i went to the garage and hit it with some compressed air...
now it works like it did before (fine, still stiff but fine).

i guess i won't oil it then!!!!
weird!

_________________
my other coil is a sub ohm
sub 500 .22 Crosman Phantom 500 open sites
sub 500 .177 Crosman TR77 NPS 4-16x40 UTG
sub 500 .177 Hatsan mod 33 with Quattro trigger open sites


Top
 Profile  
 
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