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 Post subject: trail np xl 1100 prob
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Hello I just got this gun and have been preaty pleased with it so far but I was shooting it today and everything was good and than I took a shot and went to cock it again and the barrel didn't want to come up once it got to a certain point like it was binding on somthing, eventual got the barrel To close and shot the pellet and than took the stock off to have a look and I'm no gun specialist but I found a Lil plastic piece on the cooking arm that doesn't look right. It's right were the cooking arm goes into the gun, it kinda looks like a piece of plastic was floating around in there and happen to get jammed in that spot but what worries me is were did it come from. Hopefully the pic I included will help out


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:11 pm 
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Pull it out and throw it away- this is not uncommon and the only purpose to that plastic piece is to reduce any potential rattling noise from the lever.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:18 pm 
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OK thanks Eric I appreciate it


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:32 pm 
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Just to mention it- originally it would have been located mid-way down the cocking lever, but it invariably will move around- usually settling to the front where it just sits and does nothing, unfortunately in your case it went the other way and gummed up at the piston.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:43 pm 
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No, do not cock the gun until you replace that part!!! It's there to prevent the cocking linkage from tearing up the receiver tube. You probably already have some damage, if so you'll need to sand the receiver smooth.
The part probably got tore off by either catching on the stock or lack of lube. Write me at chevota at hotmail and I'll send you pix of the part, and pix of the fix to prevent this from happening again.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 6:13 pm 
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I have already fired it a few times since I pulled it out, it was just a tiny bit of plastic and now the gun cock smooth as butter and I checked for any damage and everything looks fine


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 7:38 pm 
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If you look at the linkage while cocking you can see that it presses on the receiver tube with tremendous force, so metal to metal scraping at that force = what... It may work fine now, especially if it's lubed, but the harder linkage will tear up the tube over time, how much time depends on the lube and shape of the linkage. Obviously a rougher or odd shaped linkage in contact with the tube will dig in faster. You will feel it as it gets worse with grinding and increased cocking effort. The plastic dealie is basically the bearing and with it there and lubed it works perfectly. The problem with most guns is the linkage us under great strain and will bend at the joint enough that the plastic part catches on the wood and it can tear the plastic dealie off. The Trail and Trail XL has a stronger linkage so it doesn't bow as much as other guns that use a cheaper linkage where not only the joint bows but the entire linkage bows too. If it bows to the side where the roller guide is then that offers support and usually no harm, but if it bows to the other side then the plastic deal is no longer flat against the receiver and it will break. If the stock is close enough to act as a guide it may be fine, or the the stock may tear the plastic off. I've also seen where the stock acted as a guide at first, but over time it wore a groove in the stock until the linkage bowed enough to break the plastic. Some stocks like the Phantom are different inside and will tear that dealie right off if it touches. Usually people first notice it as the gun locking up mid cocking stroke, unable to figure it out because the linkage only bows under pressure, they push harder and it snaps it off. They think it's fine and keep shooting until they feel the grinding...
So look at your linkage as you cock it and you'll see it probably bows to the side under the pressure, and note the extreme pressure it puts on the receiver tube and decide if you're ok with that. This reminds me of the brakes on a car, the brakes will still work when the pads break off the backing, but not for long...
The plastic dealie is not available by itself as far as I know, I think you have to buy the cocking linkage to get it which is maybe $5 or so (US $ in the US from Crosman). The good news is you can make one from plastic/nylon or whatever. I've never had to buy or make one because I mod the gun to prevent this from happening in the first place, plus I keep it lubed. If you want to make the part I have pix of the original as a guide, so just find some plastic and shape accordingly. I also have pix of the mod to prevent future problems with this, which is super simple to do.
If the tube is damaged, and I'm sure it is a little, you'll need to fix it before running the new plastic deal over it. It isn't hard to fix, just sand it smooth and it should be good to go. The metal is fairly thick so even badly damages ones are repairable, within reason.
They made these bs two-piece articulated linkages to get around an older problem; friction at the piston skirt. Buttons solve that problem and I'd think it would've been cheaper for the factory to button than make this linkage, but whatever. Also, this new setup doesn't eliminate the piston problem, it just reduces it. RWS/Diana uses a two-piece linkage too but they use a little steel wheel to roll over the receiver which is far less likely to fail. Older guns and other brands like Hatsan just use the old single piece linkage and hope the piston doesn't seize in the tube before the warranty expires. So it's up to you but I'd fix it without question. If you don't I'd at least be sure it has a steady diet of good thick sticky grease, and preferably with moly or tungsten dry lube mixed in. I suppose sanding the linkage where it contacts the tube to make it smooth and mate better would be good too, but for that effort I'd just make a new plastic dealie. Making the part might be a pita, but I suppose you could just epoxy some plastic to the linkage to do the same job...


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 7:55 pm 
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Diana 34's use a one piece cocking arm, no "rollers".


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Well, depends on the model and year of mfg. If you have one then I recommend piston buttons, or at least keep it greased.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 4:58 pm 
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Venom .. do NOT continue to cock the gun without that plastic piece ..if it is mangled use something else, I have used speaker wire as a temp solution on same model & other similar models of ag's (the kind with clear insulation - u can see the copper wire)
With the NP XL there is a little notch right by the fulcrum point of the cocking arm & the link, tie it around that little notch halfway on the arm ink. make SURE it rides proud (is fat enough) so that there is no metal on metal contact when you cock that gun.
I can GUARANTEE you receiver tube will start galling without this little plastic piece. You can use a zip tie as well - I found insulation on speaker wire does fine till you can get one made out of delrin or other plastic material. IF your original plastic has not been mangled use a *dab* of crazy glue or JB weld on the inside roof of plastic tab & stick it back on the notch once you have clean contact surfaces between the two parts thoroughly.
Again .. without this piece you WILL have a nice mangled up channel of gouged out steel by the end of a 500 ct tin.
Ensure that there is a light coat of moly on the underside of the receiver tube after fix to ensure minimal friction.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 11:00 pm 
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Thanks for the replies, I just zip tied it and put a bit of grease for now and seems to be working good, its alot less clanky and rattley when closing the barrel, should be good enough until make a proper piece


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