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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:09 am 
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I would like to know if someone out there could jewel my compression tube in my TX 200. Thanks..

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Since no one else has, I'll ask.
Why do you want to jewel the compression tube?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Whitewolf wrote:
Since no one else has, I'll ask.
Why do you want to jewel the compression tube?


cuz it looks frickin' awesome...duh... :wink: :lol:

I have been thinking about doing it, I was planning on making my own spring loaded jeweling tool and just using a indexing head and CNC :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:25 pm 
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jgoodz420 wrote:
Whitewolf wrote:
Since no one else has, I'll ask.
Why do you want to jewel the compression tube?


cuz it looks frickin' awesome...duh... :wink: :lol: Would have never guessed that part. Different strokes for different folks

I have been thinking about doing it, I was planning on making my own spring loaded jeweling tool and just using a indexing head and CNC :lol:

Have jeweled a few PB bolts. Speeding the process via CNC one could mae a dollar or two. Manually with an indexing head takes a bit of time. And not one that people are willing to pay. You are talkin wire spring correct? Joel.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:02 pm 
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jgoodz420 wrote:
Whitewolf wrote:
Since no one else has, I'll ask.
Why do you want to jewel the compression tube?


cuz it looks frickin' awesome...duh... :wink: :lol:

I have been thinking about doing it, I was planning on making my own spring loaded jeweling tool and just using a indexing head and CNC :lol:

Since I`m the guy who asked the queston , I repeat what Mr. Goodz said " It`s Frickin`Awësome :lol: :lol: :lol:

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HW98 .177 Viper 4-16x50
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 1:54 am 
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Whitewolf wrote:
Have jeweled a few PB bolts. Speeding the process via CNC one could mae a dollar or two. Manually with an indexing head takes a bit of time. And not one that people are willing to pay. You are talkin wire spring correct? Joel.


Exactly...I was just going to use a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" round CRS, drill almost all the way thru with 1/4" (probably 17/64"), cut a slot .135" wide thru the 3/8", stopping 1/4" from the "working end". Then take a piece of 1/4" round CRS attach the abrasive tip to one end and put a 1/8" ream with dowel to fit in the slot and retain the 1/4" shaft within the 3/8", then I can just place a spring behind the 1/4" rod at the "holding end" of the tool. I will just have to play with step overs, pressure/depth needed. What sort of abrasive and compound have you used in the past?

Pretty simple really, just one of those things I don't seem to get around to, too many airgun jobs have built up and with 80+hr weeks at my real job, they just aren't getting done :ANAL:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:19 am 
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I found a place in Kansas -3rd mellenium engineering, they do this work at a really reasonable $..

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:51 am 
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newlife wrote:
I found a place in Kansas -3rd mellenium engineering, they do this work at a really reasonable $..


What do they charge roughly?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:07 am 
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I jeweled (engine turned, damescening(sp?)) the compression tube on a chinese b3. I used a drill press with a cross sliding vice. To produce the swirls, I used a round, coarse grade cratex stick (available from kbc tools) chucked right in the drill press. Touch the rotating cratex stick to the tube for about 4 sec, then advance the cross sliding vice about 3/4 the diameter of the previous swirl (on my vice it takes two turns of the crank). The next line should put the swirls in between the swirls on the first row. Sort of out of phase with the first row, with the same amount of overlap as the first row. It's easy and faster than you would think. I'll try and post a few pics.

It's easy to do yourself. Then you start to jewel everything in sight. Jeweled hammers on guns look nice. The jewelling also holds oil better than a smooth surface, and reduces the friction point on moving surfaces.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:13 am 
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Joel I used the red jewlers rouge brick to charge the wire up. Have read others useing valve grinding compound as well. It can be had with different grades of grit.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:59 am 
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Whitewolf wrote:
Joel I used the red jewlers rouge brick to charge the wire up. Have read others useing valve grinding compound as well. It can be had with different grades of grit.


I will look into that, I am sure sooner or later I will get around to trying it out :lol: :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:01 am 
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ricksplace wrote:
I jeweled (engine turned, damescening(sp?)) the compression tube on a chinese b3. I used a drill press with a cross sliding vice. To produce the swirls, I used a round, coarse grade cratex stick (available from kbc tools) chucked right in the drill press. Touch the rotating cratex stick to the tube for about 4 sec, then advance the cross sliding vice about 3/4 the diameter of the previous swirl (on my vice it takes two turns of the crank). The next line should put the swirls in between the swirls on the first row. Sort of out of phase with the first row, with the same amount of overlap as the first row. It's easy and faster than you would think. I'll try and post a few pics.

It's easy to do yourself. Then you start to jewel everything in sight. Jeweled hammers on guns look nice. The jewelling also holds oil better than a smooth surface, and reduces the friction point on moving surfaces.


Good to know ~ 75% step over

I will be holding the piece in a indexing head to rotate, I am guessing a 10-15deg rotation should be about right depending on the diameter of what I am jeweling...Always fun to learn/try something new :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 1:36 pm 
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Did it in gunsmithing school. Looks lovely but time consuming.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 5:34 pm 
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Just to add -if you use cratex, don't apply too much pressure (you don't need to) or the rubber compound will shatter. Try different diameters of cratex sticks and different spacing. You can vary the effects quite a bit. I find touching the rotating stick just off center of the workpiece gives a nice half-swirl that is easy to overlap on the next pass. The cratex quickly wears into the correct angle for the work.

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12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:00 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
ricksplace wrote:
Just to add -if you use cratex, don't apply too much pressure (you don't need to) or the rubber compound will shatter. Try different diameters of cratex sticks and different spacing. You can vary the effects quite a bit. I find touching the rotating stick just off centre of the work piece gives a nice half-swirl that is easy to overlap on the next pass. The cratex quickly wears into the correct angle for the work.



You are talking about the softer rubberized Cratex? That is what I used in school. 3/8" diameter.

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Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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