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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 11:01 pm 
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Location: Mississauga, ON
For reasons I will explain in a later post I have ventured into my CX4. I love all things mechanical, and this is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold! I have pretty much figured out how it all works and thought that while I have it apart I would see if there were any questions that others might have before I zipper it up in a couple of days. If you want to see anything in more detail I probably have pictures or will take some if I don't.

Lon


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Daisy 953 * QB78D * Walther 1894 * Beretta CX4 & PX4 * Zoraki HP01 * Beeman P17 * Walther CP88 Comp. * Crosman 1377/2240/SA6/357-8
Swiss Arms P92 * Colt Commander 1911 * Walther PPK * P08 * Colt Python 357 * TW 1911/Limited * S&W M&P R8
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:35 am 
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Location: Edmonton
Anything that can be done with its awful trigger? One major blemish on the beauty.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:43 am 
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Edmonton<500 wrote:
Anything that can be done with its awful trigger? One major blemish on the beauty.

Well, I don't find the trigger that bad. It is heavy but seems to break cleanly. But I don't have anything really good to compare it to. I also have no experience with modifying triggers. I will post a couple of pics and maybe someone else will examine them and comment on possible modifications.

There is not a lot to the trigger assembly. Contrary to some comments I have seen it is very simple in operation. It does not do anything (with one slight exception) other than pull the sear away from the hammer to fire the gun. There are only three parts and two springs. There is the trigger and it's spring, the sear and it's spring, and a connecting bar (called the 'trigger bar') that links the two. Nothing much slides on anything - it's just rotation of the trigger and the sear around their respective pins.

This first picture is from the left (I call it the 'back') side of the assembly. You can see the black plastic trigger, and it's protruding pin inserted in the trigger bar. When you pull the trigger back it pulls the bar forward.
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Back to the front side, and with all the 'plumbing' out of the way, you can see the sear and it's spring, and the other end of the trigger bar underneath it. When you pull the trigger the bar hooks the protrusion on the bottom of the sear and pulls forward to the right causing the sear to rotate and disengage from the piston/hammer (removed in this picture) above.
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There does not seem to be any significant 'rubbing' surfaces to 'polish'. The only things that jump to my mind is to put weaker springs to replace the trigger and sear springs. Comments would be appreciated as I might try to do something with the trigger later.

Lon

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Daisy 953 * QB78D * Walther 1894 * Beretta CX4 & PX4 * Zoraki HP01 * Beeman P17 * Walther CP88 Comp. * Crosman 1377/2240/SA6/357-8
Swiss Arms P92 * Colt Commander 1911 * Walther PPK * P08 * Colt Python 357 * TW 1911/Limited * S&W M&P R8


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:17 am 
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Location: London ON
Way to go Lon. Can you give us an idea of the level of difficulty on splitting the rifle apart? I can see now that the rear sight can be easily removed if required. I no longer need to do that with mine thanks to help from you and Murray. My Bug Buster scope now sits perfectly over the rear sight assembly and with a couple of strips of tape under the rear ring mount was easily centered on target. Now, of course, one can see that the gun isn't quite as accurate as one would wish but is acceptable.

Joe


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:48 am 
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Hi Joe. Glad to hear you got your scope problem sorted. I was curious if you had or not.

Red Ryder wrote:
Can you give us an idea of the level of difficulty on splitting the rifle apart?

I'm not sure if you are asking about just the plastic case, or the internal cast aluminum case. The outer case is very simple - about a 2 on a scale of 10. Just remove anything attached that might prevent the splitting, such as a scope, red dot, or the front pickatinny mount if you have an XT. Then remove the plastic knob on the cocking lever by pushing out the pin in it. I had the proper sized punch but a nail would do. I was all prepared to tap it out with a hammer but a light push was all it took. Then remove the 12 screws around the edge of the case. They are Torx T-10 but a 5/64 allen key will do the job. My Torx screwdriver was too fat to fit in 4 of the deeper holes so I used the allen key for them. Then just lift the top of the case off watching for the sights to fall out. There is an additional part to the front sight not seen in my first photo - a small plastic 'cam' device that fell out later.

If you want to open up the inside case I suggest you watch this video a couple of times and come back if you have more questions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6sZbB8Opis

Red Ryder wrote:
Now, of course, one can see that the gun isn't quite as accurate as one would wish but is acceptable.

So, you've been sipping Champagne too long, and now you don't like the taste of beer? :D That's a problem I don't have, not ever having had a higher-end gun. But one would be wasted on me with my 23 foot range.

As to the accuracy I suppose one could try different pellets and see if the gun 'likes' a specific brand or shape. Maybe the barrel crown needs touching up. Mine looks good to me, but I wouldn't know what to be looking for anyway. Some have said that the fact the barrel is mounted in O-rings front and back may be a problem, although I think that's not the case.

Lon

_________________
Daisy 953 * QB78D * Walther 1894 * Beretta CX4 & PX4 * Zoraki HP01 * Beeman P17 * Walther CP88 Comp. * Crosman 1377/2240/SA6/357-8
Swiss Arms P92 * Colt Commander 1911 * Walther PPK * P08 * Colt Python 357 * TW 1911/Limited * S&W M&P R8


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:38 am 
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Location: Edmonton
You might find the accuracy improves if you experiment with pellets. The ones that seem to work best for me is a Winchester pellet, which just slips down below the lip of the carrier when given a gentle push. Worst performers were JSBs, which tended to drop to the bottom of the carrier when given even the lightest nudge. You're looking for a pellet that will sit on top of the carrier hole when placed there, but when given a gentle push (I just use a pen), it will drop and lock about a 16th of an inch below the rim.


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