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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:56 pm 
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Location: Winnipeg
Hi

Just ordered a new seal kit for a Crosman 38T, was hoping to get some help or tips for the process of replacing the seals.
The kit I ordered from scopesandammo.com came with 6 rubber seals and 1 new metal piercing pin.

OK, first off Im trying to pinpoint where these parts go exactly.
From my knowledge the 38T has 3 main components.. the CO2 piercing block, a copper tube, connecting to the Main valve body.
The copper tube has a small gland nut securing it to the CO2 block, and a large gland nut securing it to the Main valve.

Here are the parts they sent me.
I know on the far right are my piercing pin and accompanying end seal. I THINK from the left to right, I have the small gland seal and o-ring, large gland seal and o-ring? These would be for small and large nuts respectively on the copper tube?
Finally is the very small rubber seal, I have no idea where that goes.
Image

Ive also been referencing these schematics.
A.http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm209/edinbud/38T_Valve.jpg
B.https://www.gunspares.co.uk/images/categories/24351.gif
C.http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/lauchlin/CRMODEL38C-T-10.jpg

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 11:26 pm 
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this link will help you a lot.
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.ca/20 ... n-38t.html

the very small rubber seal is from inside the valve its part 38-094 .
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 4:41 pm 
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Thanks man, you showed me that site before it has some great quality pics.

Is there anything I DONT need to dismantle to access the valve parts? Im hoping I can just collect the trigger spring, the cylinder with its retent ball and spring, and the Pell loader spring obviously which is sitting on the Main valve. Can I leave everything else in place and slide the Main valve block out to work on it separately?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 11:23 pm 
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I know I showed you that link before but thought it might help someone ells that might read this post. :wink:

canox wrote:
Thanks man, you showed me that site before it has some great quality pics.

I know I showed you that link before but thought it might help someone ells that might read this post. :wink:

Is there anything I DONT need to dismantle to access the valve parts? Im hoping I can just collect the trigger spring, the cylinder with its retent ball and spring, and the Pell loader spring obviously which is sitting on the Main valve. Can I leave everything else in place and slide the Main valve block out to work on it separately?
that's the way I usually do it myself, you will also need to remove the cylinder indexing pawl mechanism, just follow the steps in the link I showed you and you should be fine, good luck :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:32 pm 
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Thx man!

I think I have it all wrong though, according to my first post.
Each gland nut only has one seal? That leaves 2 O-rings and a bigger seal for the Valve stem?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:42 pm 
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When you have time could you identify each part 'letter' with the proper name or place for it?
Im still lost as to where these pieces go.

Image

Sry, I just want to make sure I know exactly what Im doing before I start taking things apart.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 4:06 pm 
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Heck yes, it works! No leaks and shoots real nice.
Thanks Ace and CO2retired for the info and tips you sent me.

It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. A very well designed gun is partly to thank for that.
Heres a pic of the inside.. aaand the guilty party, one o-ring just disintegrated in my hand.

Image
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:02 am 
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glad everything worked out :wink: 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:09 am 
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I'm going to have to get off my butt and order my 38T seal kit.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Good work there.

I blew mine up too leaving it in sun.... I have a kit so... now I better get off my butt too.

Nothing like positive peer pressure. Nudge nudge wink wink

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 8:14 pm 
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Hmm this gun is still missing something though..
maybe some sort of leather device that could protect it and hold it on my waist.

canox wrote:
When you have time could you identify each part 'letter' with the proper name or place for it?
Im still lost as to where these pieces go.

Image

Sry, I just want to make sure I know exactly what Im doing before I start taking things apart.


For the record..

A + E go on the copper tube, for the small and large nut.
D + C go inside the valve on the stem, just under the brass cap.
B goes at the very bottom of the valve chamber.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 2:28 am 
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Sorry i read this so late here`s a link to service manuals for older Crosman guns http://stevespages.com/pdf/crosman_fact ... al_all.pdf and it covers the 38t

Jim

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:51 pm 
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Im really pleased such an old airgun is back in great condition with just a few pieces of rubber.

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