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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 4:13 pm 
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Location: Burnstown, Ontario
My Ruger should be in tomorrow or the next day, and I want to start off right... been reading that with this particular model, I should use Locktite on the scope rings, which I'll do. I then ran across a tune and pellet kit that includes "upgraded" breech seals and shims. Is this a normal thing to do? Whatever suggestion you veterans have would be appreciated. The Airhawk gets various reviews, some good, some bad, so this should be interesting!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 4:27 pm 
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Location: Rocky Mtn Hse Alberta
Why would you put Loctite on the scope rings? Bad advice comescheap.
Instead buy good one piece rings and forget the goop

Shooting stock until you know it's capability and weaknesses.
Do your mods after the warranty term.

Clean the barrel, inspect condition and shoot it LOTS!

Cheers
Walter....

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 4:42 pm 
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Voltar1 wrote:
Why would you put Loctite on the scope rings? Bad advice comescheap.
Instead buy good one piece rings and forget the goop

Shooting stock until you know it's capability and weaknesses.
Do your mods after the warranty term.

Clean the barrel, inspect condition and shoot it LOTS!

Cheers
Walter....


Apparently the scope rings mount on the barrel with only one screw each, and come loose with moderate use. So I think the Locktite is to keep it stable till one can afford new rings. :?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 12:32 am 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
Hominid wrote:
Voltar1 wrote:
Why would you put Loctite on the scope rings? Bad advice comescheap.
Instead buy good one piece rings and forget the goop

Shooting stock until you know it's capability and weaknesses.
Do your mods after the warranty term.

Clean the barrel, inspect condition and shoot it LOTS!

Cheers
Walter....


Apparently the scope rings mount on the barrel with only one screw each, and come loose with moderate use. So I think the Locktite is to keep it stable till one can afford new rings. :?


But you'll be cursing the heck out of it if you ever have to remove those screws. There is a blue paste (forget the name) that you can use instead. Will hold the screw tight but allow, with some effort, you to unscrew it. Loctite requires a lot of torque and sometimes heat to release. Chances are, you'll strip the head first. This is my experience.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 12:47 am 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
Pink Loctite is the best. Just holds the screw in place. very easy to remove. Make sure you remove all the oil the factory puts on as a preservative, otherwise the Loctite doesn't work.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 6:04 am 
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rrdstarr wrote:
Pink Loctite is the best. Just holds the screw in place. very easy to remove. Make sure you remove all the oil the factory puts on as a preservative, otherwise the Loctite doesn't work.


Rick, do you know the name of the stuff I was referring to? It's almost like a heavy thread sealer.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:17 pm 
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Handyguy wrote:
rrdstarr wrote:
Pink Loctite is the best. Just holds the screw in place. very easy to remove. Make sure you remove all the oil the factory puts on as a preservative, otherwise the Loctite doesn't work.


Rick, do you know the name of the stuff I was referring to? It's almost like a heavy thread sealer.



I know what you mean, sometimes it is already on the screw to keep the screw in place after it is installed. Don't know who makes it?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:20 pm 
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Location: Komoka Ont.
Its usually not the screws loosening thats the problem, If you try to get them tight enough to stop movement you could strip them.
What Voltar said, invest in a one piece mount and it doesn't have to be the most expensive. Double screws on the rings and at least 3 screws on the base. If there is a set screw to also lock to the base even better. Nothing is worse than fooling around wasting pellets because your scope is migrating back and forth. As far as tuning there is lots of reading on that rifle or other clones, I found that when it comes time a simple clean up and debur then using moly paste to lube usually gets things sorted out, I may also make a sleeve for inside the piston to remove spring noise.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:54 am 
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Heh, woke up to this lovely message from UPS: Calgary, AB, Canada 11/28/2014 6:01 Out for Delivery
Wasn't expecting it till next week. Then again with all the snow falling who knows if the UPS truck will make it.

Did you get yours already?
I'm with Voltar with this one, why not wait till after the warranty expires and/or break-in period before doing mods? This way you can appreciate the difference (if any) that the mods bring. In my case if this turns out to be a decent platform I think I'll try that Vortek kit once the Pal arrives. Hear nothing but things about it and cheaper than buying a PAL gun.

If I may pigback on this thread: how do you guys propose I clean the barrel in the Airhawk? Hopefully that will be my project for later today, pending delivery. You folks think using Dupont's teflon spray to be safe? http://www.lowes.ca/hardware-lubricants ... ductSlot=3

When I got the B1 that's what I used to clean the barrel. Just sprayed it through the breech a few times to remove the factory smelly, dieseling oil. Then again that was on a $29 rifle, rather ask before attempting this with the Airhawk.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 3:27 pm 
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Joolz wrote:
Heh, woke up to this lovely message from UPS: Calgary, AB, Canada 11/28/2014 6:01 Out for Delivery
Wasn't expecting it till next week. Then again with all the snow falling who knows if the UPS truck will make it.

Did you get yours already?
I'm with Voltar with this one, why not wait till after the warranty expires and/or break-in period before doing mods? This way you can appreciate the difference (if any) that the mods bring. In my case if this turns out to be a decent platform I think I'll try that Vortek kit once the Pal arrives. Hear nothing but things about it and cheaper than buying a PAL gun.

If I may pigback on this thread: how do you guys propose I clean the barrel in the Airhawk? Hopefully that will be my project for later today, pending delivery. You folks think using Dupont's teflon spray to be safe? http://www.lowes.ca/hardware-lubricants ... ductSlot=3

When I got the B1 that's what I used to clean the barrel. Just sprayed it through the breech a few times to remove the factory smelly, dieseling oil. Then again that was on a $29 rifle, rather ask before attempting this with the Airhawk.


A brand new gun?
Just a couple of dry patches to get the preservative oil out is all.

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Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 1:06 pm 
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Location: Stavely, Alberta
Voltar1 wrote:
Why would you put Loctite on the scope rings? Bad advice comescheap.
Instead buy good one piece rings and forget the goop
Walter....


X2. I've literally fitted hundreds of scopes and never used threadlocker of any description on them, even on magnum twangers nor heavy reciolling PB's.

If the hold down screws are torqued properly, you're golden.

DaveD :D

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:29 pm 
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blade57 wrote:
Voltar1 wrote:
Why would you put Loctite on the scope rings? Bad advice comescheap.
Instead buy good one piece rings and forget the goop
Walter....


X2. I've literally fitted hundreds of scopes and never used threadlocker of any description on them, even on magnum twangers nor heavy reciolling PB's.

If the hold down screws are torqued properly, you're golden.

DaveD :D


I think I still have a german made torque wrench from in inch pounds that goes from 10-70. Works great for getting equal pressure on scope rings and bases.

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Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
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Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
"Typical mods" differ from person to person. To me it means completely disassembling the gun and doing many things to it, which imo are totally worth the effort. So how far are you willing to go?
I've never needed locktite on scope rings either.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:09 am 
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rrdstarr wrote:
A brand new gun?
Just a couple of dry patches to get the preservative oil out is all.

Thanks for the tip, I wasn't aware that all a new gun needed was a dry patch. Just did it now, some 34 hours after opening the box (too busy around here) and fired half a dozen shots. Only minor dieseling and unlike the B1, no horrible smell.

Now to try and fit the scope and see how that goes.

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