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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:29 am 
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Location: 123 gun street Nova Scotia
daryl . what about the awesome wood working ;) haha , i should probably at least try and make the wood look good as the metal

i'll see if i can find my sketches , me drawing blue prints is very similar to a 3 year old .
ive got pictures of the new breech in steps as it is done roughly , they will make for a much more interesting post .


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 4:27 pm 
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second build under way , coming along great . this is a solid steel re worked design , im putting the trigger assembly in tonight , then the breech is finished .
also the barrel , hammer , bolt probe , 9 shot clip , and airtube are done .
not sure if i want to blue this my self or look into some hot bluing , the way its going this will be the nicest build ive ever done .
got some nice walnut just waiting to be shaped out also ... or dark mahogany .... hard choice

still waiting for a day with less then 300k/h winds to test the first gun out side

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 4:38 pm 
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Looks phenomenal! But you're a tease, what's hiding under that cover? :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 4:45 pm 
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I would buy one (detuned) without the furniture and try the wood working myself.... when will be able to set a price!!?

And I am with James.. what is in side that receiver?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:06 pm 
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i'll do some inside pictures soon , teasers are good for now .
ive been keeping track of my time to build this thing ,,, pretty scary how much time goes into just the breech . over 2 hours to just drill the bolt/probe hole and the hammer hole , then 1/2 hour smoothing holes . the valve end is done on a cnc mill to make the valve seat ,pin hole and to do the threading 1 hour total with set up and cut , barrel hole drilled after so that the barrel and air tube will be 100% lined up (I HOPE) . the cut away on the side was over an hour and almost an hour making the plate/cover and the bolts. cnc in the future (going to custom make some nice flat head skrews). polish ,polish polish polish .... hours .
the linkage inside was 2 hours perfecting it . and about 2 hours for the bolt/probe(.22 and .25) and hammer . the lever is 3/8 '' steel surprized that it took only 2-3 hours . then some time pining the linkage to the lever . trigger assemble and cutting and adjusting 4 hours all this and still not including all the figureing and measuring ,air tube ,valve pin, custom springs and cleaning piles of metal shaving . the wood will be the quickest parts i think. probably only 2 hours to finish the forestock and shoulder .
as for a cost , i think it would be over $1000 for me to make another in steel . going to try some from hard aluminum , this would cut my work time in half .
none for sale for a lil while :) , still testing and i will be doing another build the same as this one . GOD I LOVE AIRGUNS :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Suspect a couple readers turned a lovely shade of white reading how much time goes into something like this. :lol:

Turning out nicely Collin, keep up the good work. 8)

I do like steel, JMO, but it's always worth the extra time in the end. :)

Almost forgot....Walnut looks amazing next to blued steel. 8)

Al


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:26 pm 
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Yes I would have to agree about $1K. Then there is to do a mahogany stock :wink: :wink: . Yep thats sounds about right. And those extra hours upon that. :shock:
Kinda like the one Wild and outta place eye brow hair that when pulled :butthead: you find out its conected to ones sphinster muscle, :cry: :cry: :cry: upon the price to build a custom gun.

Excellent work budz. Await the next teasing pic... :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:10 pm 
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1K for a custom lever is 2 Walthers....... I have 2 Walthers already so.... I will start saving up.... who needs to buy a holster or 15?

As many have said about custom made stuff... you get what you pay for plus it has the hands of a real live maker on it.

and I vote mahogany! and some restrained but fancy laser etching on the receiver.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 5:54 am 
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That's coming along beautifully, Collin... 8) ...looking forward to more "teaser" pics!... :wink:

Other than the cost of tooling... :shock: , the time it takes to make some parts (which to some, may *seem* simple at first glance) was probably my biggest eye-opener when I got my wee lathe.

You are an accomplished machinist and know what you're doing, and as such can tell how long it takes to make a certain piece by simply looking at your watch. Me on the other hand who has very limited experience?....ha, I have to flip pages on the calender! :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:53 am 
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sholo wrote:
I have to flip pages on the calender! :lol:

Yup, that's me too, especially on the first version of any given part (and so often I only need one).

I'm surprised at the 1k figure - I was expecting another zero. At 1k you're paying less for a custom hand-built rifle than you pay for many medium to high-end factory built guns that are made in the thousands, most likely with a great deal of automation. That's quite the bargain!

Jim


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:44 am 
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thanks for all the positive thoughts .
still wondering if the walnut is the right wood :) either way it will look great .
if i can get my butt in gear i will have this done and shooting by xmas .
i'll post a few more pictures tonight :)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 12:49 pm 
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Black walnut is about the easiest to work in real stock woods. Maple is nice but Eastern Maple harder to work- as it's harder. Not talking about Red or Manitoba maple- might work, but doubt it. Figured or plain maple should be stained dark- too white is merely finished - like aspen(poplar) or birch.

The softer woods - yuk!

Kim reminded me about Mahogany - I once had a nice laminated stocked rifle that P.O.Ackley built in the 60's - dark red mahogany, laminated with 2, 1/4" strips of aluminum running full length up the middle (3/8" mahogany strip between them - then 2" of mahogany each side, rather striking, but OH so many coats of oil to fill those huge pores in the wood. It was a bench-gun or long range prone rifle, heavy barrel and 12 pounds). It had a rail slot in the forend for the palm rest. In 22Varminter (.22-250) one of my Ontario groundhog rifles - late 1970-72.

Something like that would stand out in a Lever gun!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 1:34 pm 
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Mahogany with polished steel I MO compliment each other very well.

Trick with large pored woods for gun stocks is wet sanding with double boiled linseed oil cut with paint thinner. Sanding with 400 then to 600 produces a mud that fills in the pores. Which produces a beautiful grain rise in stock. Hours of work produce beautiful works of art with the right woods. As the coats build finer grit wet paper polish in the sheen finish. Once you reach 1200 grit. Then it's just polishing to finalize your work.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 8:42 pm 
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ever closer :) still no guts in he picture , just mocked up for a few picture of stock and attaching stuff for stock ....... and my single coat blueing which is very lacking . going to redo all the bluing when im finished the reast

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:40 pm 
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As always Collin LOOKIN SPAANKEEEEY.. :drinkers:

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