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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 2:55 pm 
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Location: Toronto
EverHopeful wrote:
Hi Dave, I might bring it along tomorrow so you can all laugh at it :)


Please do!

I was talking to a friend from Scotland and he used the term boffin and I thought of you immediately...in a good way of course.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:56 am
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
Google:

Smooth-On Free Form sculpting epoxy.

$145 will give you enough product to make a hundred grips. I have used this and it's amazing stuff. Also, it's thick enough not to run and you have about a 3 hour pot life....aaaaand, it can be sanded and painted.

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The flaw with experience is, it causes us to forget what we were like when we didn't have any.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:18 pm 
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Handyguy wrote:
Google:

Smooth-On Free Form sculpting epoxy.

$145 will give you enough product to make a hundred grips. I have used this and it's amazing stuff. Also, it's thick enough not to run and you have about a 3 hour pot life....aaaaand, it can be sanded and painted.


That looks like good stuff. So many interesting materials, so little time (and money) to try them all :)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:56 am
Posts: 1079
Location: Calgary, Alberta
EverHopeful wrote:
Handyguy wrote:
Google:

Smooth-On Free Form sculpting epoxy.

$145 will give you enough product to make a hundred grips. I have used this and it's amazing stuff. Also, it's thick enough not to run and you have about a 3 hour pot life....aaaaand, it can be sanded and painted.


That looks like good stuff. So many interesting materials, so little time (and money) to try them all :)


If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I have used just about everything you see there.

Btw, where do you live? I have a large kit of Free Form. For a nominal fee, I could send you a trial kit. I guarantee you will be amazed and hooked.

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The flaw with experience is, it causes us to forget what we were like when we didn't have any.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:39 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
EverHopeful wrote:
Good question. I've only had the stuff a couple of weeks, so it's going to take a while to find out. First impressions are that it seems quite tough. I experimented with mixing in some sawdust to make it a bit stiffer, so I ended up with several balls of the stuff with various mixes. I cut those in half which was surprisingly difficult and have used them around the workshop for resting blocks of wood on so they don't slip. None of them seem to have worn in any way. The stuff attached to guns still looks like new. I think I have it on three of them now.

One thing I didn't mention is that while sugru sticks like crazy, this casting putty is deliberately made not to be sticky. It seems to have some sort of oily release agent mixed in. Sometimes it seems to stick anyway (I think the sawdust helps here, perhaps it absorbs the release agent), but in other cases I've had to glue the grip in place after it sets. Fortunately the stuff seems to stick well to itself, so you can build the grip up in several stages to get the perfect fit, and if the grip completely encloses what's underneath it will tend to hold well.

Jim


As with most products of this nature there are a few things to keep in mind. Mixing in thickeners of a powder nature will reduce the cured products overall strength. Powders like talc and wood flour are used to turn liquid products into a non-sagging, paint-on product to be applied to vertical surfaces. If you want to add bulk to your mix and increase strength, go with a fibre. There are milled plastic strands and cut fibreglass strands, usually about 1/4" in length. Sanding fibre fortified materials will expose the fibres, in which case, you would apply a finishing, top coat. This coat should be thin and brushed/sprayed on to give a shiny, finished look.

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The flaw with experience is, it causes us to forget what we were like when we didn't have any.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:09 am 
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Thanks for the info. I was wondering if talc would work, sure would be easier than scraping out the power tools! I see Smooth on have their own 'folding powder', I wonder what that is. Can the fibres be used with the casting urethanes? I'm beginning to really want a way of replacing small pot-metal parts and I'm wondering if the castable plastics are strong enough.

That's very kind of you to offer to send some of the free form. A small amount to try out would be fantastic. I'm in Ontario, just north of Toronto. If you're still willing we can sort out the details via pm.

Jim


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:56 am
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
EverHopeful wrote:
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if talc would work, sure would be easier than scraping out the power tools! I see Smooth on have their own 'folding powder', I wonder what that is. Can the fibres be used with the casting urethanes? I'm beginning to really want a way of replacing small pot-metal parts and I'm wondering if the castable plastics are strong enough.

That's very kind of you to offer to send some of the free form. A small amount to try out would be fantastic. I'm in Ontario, just north of Toronto. If you're still willing we can sort out the details via pm.

Jim


I do not recommend using casting plastics to replace pot metal parts. This material is designed mostly for aesthetic applications as it chips fairly easy and tend to be brittle where smaller parts are concerned. A more viable alternative would be aluminum casting. This is something I have been looking at very closely.
Using fibres in this mix can be very tricky. Two part casting resins set up too quick. There is a water clear resin (Alumilite) that would afford you the time required to mix fibres and pour (high durometer when cured)...but the curing time is anywhere from 3 to 5 days depending on your relative humidity.
As for the Free Form, I will gladly help out....and this goes out to anyone who is dabbling in sculpting.

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