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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 12:20 am
Posts: 28
So I have been out of actual shooting for the past 10 years, this past summer I got into powder burners, and decided to get back into springers this winter. I decided on a crosman phantom .22 as a winter project. I initially shot it and I was lucky to see 390fps with 14.0 pellets(verified with chrono connect, I have yet to review this product).. This wasn't acceptable to me, so I did a quick "power tune" and bright it to a steady 485-490... But as most airgun tuners, I desired more.
So I ordered a full power kit from scopesandammo.com, cleaned the garbage out of the rifle, polished everything except the trigger group, cross hatched the chamber with a brake hone, lubbed and assembled... The shot cycle was great, but the rifle had the perverbial barrel slop.

I was miffed to say the least, a few "F-bombs" and I decided on the brass washer route. So I took the time to patiently grind, sand and fit the washers. Put them in and they seemed like a great fit in the breech block recess'. I thought "great! Time to assemble and be done with the innacuracy... WRONG! There was only a small improvement and it was still completely unacceptable.
The gun almost got wrapped around a tree, and from prior experience, I know I can accomplish that! Lol
I started measuring with my calipers, found the ears on the reciever tube to be slightly open. I decided to straighten them and low and behold the problem isn't the nylon washers in the pivot, it's the ears (fork, or whatever the hell you decide you rather call them lol) on the tube.

I am using the nylon washers with absolutely zero play and decided to test some pellets after 3 cups of coffee at a touch over 10 meters, I'm very happy with the results. So I decided to post some pics. I'm thinking I'm going to touch up the crown just to eliminate all possible Q.C. Problems.
Top photo is the family (savage .243, savage .22, phantom .22) and bottom photo is the groups with pellets on hand


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:56 am
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
I admire your perseverance, seems you have become a master at overcoming barrel droop (at the expense of a small amount of sanity).

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The flaw with experience is, it causes us to forget what we were like when we didn't have any.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
I like the camo jobs, what paint did you use?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 6:19 pm 
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Posts: 1078
Don't think he was referring to droop, but breech block slop due to the fact that the block forks were getting wider the farther he measured from the transfer port.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 12:20 am
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peterdulux wrote:
Don't think he was referring to droop, but breech block slop due to the fact that the block forks were getting wider the farther he measured from the transfer port.


Correct. Droop is a whole different thing...

Chevota... Thanks! I used krylon fusion camo...I've had great luck with that product. The phantom stock will probably be for sale soon. I paint synthetic stocks, I prefer wood stocks personally and am ordering one right now as I type this

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 11:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Thanks for the info. An internet friend was looking for paint to use on an NP2 which is no doubt the same plastic as the Phantom. I have a Phantom stock too that I don't care for so I reshaped it and removed all that annoying braille, but being sanded it looks like hell too. I think a camo job would be nice.
Btw, those nylon washer suck regardless, too weak for the job. I use brass washers too, and smooth the surface of the ears up so it won't tear them up. I also sand the bolt and bushing because they aren't always a smooth as I'd like. Probably not very important and would wear into place quickly, but while it's apart I figure why not. Did you do anything for the spring twang? That drives me nuts so I fix that with a plastic liner in the piston that fits the spring well enough to eliminate most of the twang. I make it from 2-liter bottle plastic, which I have some pix of if you want. Most people just use Spring Tar which works excellent but costs some fps.


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