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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 1:58 am 
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Have the new acquisition taken apart and ready to start replacing seals. But can't figure out how to get the valve body apart (as seen in the inset pic). Figure it's best to have it apart in order to replace that white o'ring that's there tight. Tried twisting it but it didn't budge, didn't want to force it too much. Therefore here I am.

PS: seal looks fine. In fact I had a tough time removing the body from the tube, it was there tight. Had to push it out with a thin metal rod. But I suppose the smart thing to do is to replace it since I came this far. Have the 9 piece seal kit.

Could use guidance.


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QB valve body.jpg
QB valve body.jpg [ 119.09 KiB | Viewed 1144 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 5:52 am 
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I don't have experience with the 78 but did read this interesting post just the other day and thought of you. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/lib ... 8_Tune.htm. It's about tuning a 78 but has the dis-assemble/re-assemble instructions.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:36 am 
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It does just twist apart. Also in the future while the brass end is still secure in the tube with the screw it is easier to loosen the aluminum end. That way it relieves the pressure on the seal making the whole valve easier to remove. I made up a tool from an old socket to fit the end of the valve and just used some extensions to reach down the tube. Then I took a wooden dowel and was able to push out the valve with no damage to the seal or the walls of the tube.

Jeff.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 9:34 am 
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Yep. :)

Large flat blade screw driver works too...as does a piece of 1/8"x3/4" flat bar....might have to file one side of the flat bar for clearance.

Al


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 11:48 am 
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Thanks for the helpful tips and the link. According to the link the two parts have locktite in them, which explains why it's so hard to twist them apart. Tried as I did, I was unable to break that locktite loose with the giant screwdriver. The socket idea sounds better but since I don't intend to apply locktite to it, I hope that the screwdriver works for future removal (I understand this gun is prone to seal failure). Btw for anyone reading this that huge screwdriver cost only $5.99. Saw it at Princess Auto yesterday when I stopped by to get some .22 pellets (this is my first .22 airgun). Great price but as seen in the pic, the blade isn't very wide. And for anyone attempting this for the first time I recommend the socket idea instead, or a tool like Gippeto described.

Is it safe to heat up the valve assembly with a hairdryer prior to twisting them apart? It's there tight thanks to all that locktite. But seeing how this is an enclosed unit applying heat may not be wise - or is it ok?

PS: that link mentions to apply dialectic grease to all the parts. Is this correct? Want to confirm before I head out to buy some.
Thanks for all the help. Can't wait to try this guy out.


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giant screw driver.jpg
giant screw driver.jpg [ 55.72 KiB | Viewed 1085 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 1:12 pm 
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Can't find dialectic grease anywhere. Is silicone lube in spray form a good bet for lubing the insides of the QB?


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silicone lube.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:30 pm 
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Don't use silicone lube spray....it contains stuff in the propellant that will kill your orings.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:34 pm 
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Quote:
Is it safe to heat up the valve assembly with a hairdryer prior to twisting them apart? It's there tight thanks to all that locktite. But seeing how this is an enclosed unit applying heat may not be wise - or is it ok?

Yes. Some 2240 valves open better with heat as well. Hair dryer would have a tough time wrecking any valve internals. . . .
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Can't find dialectic grease anywhere.

It's primarily an electrical product; you may be looking at the right store, but in the wrong place. I've seen it at CTire, HHardware, Wmart, and PartSource. Good Luck!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:42 pm 
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I don't think there is lock tight on it... you should have loosend it before pushing it through the tube, but now that its out just take an allen key the closest size fit and put it in the air port hole and use it as leverage and unscrew it with the flat blade screwdriver at the same time...trust me it will come off just have to break that stiff o ring seal.

P.s. congrats on the QB 78 your going to like it. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:18 pm 
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Just got it off, using Ace's idea. However I first had to remove the old seal with a blade as it simply wouldn't budge with the old seal in place. Plenty of heat from the hairdryer too. That thing was in there tight (and no sign of locktite). It doesn't help that my gigantic screwdriver has a small flat head, couldn't get much contact area with the valve. May have to look at cutting a socket to fit.

Internals look good, now off to get that grease before I start putting it back. Can you guys please clarify where is safe to apply grease to? I know the inside of the tube should have a thin coat. But can I also apply it to the spring inside the valve? (it currently has some blackened lube in it) Maybe a bit on the threads too in order to make it easier to remove next time? Bolt body? Trigger?

However before I leave I wanted to point this out first: as seen in the pic below the bolt doesn't close all the way. That's as far as it goes. Once I removed it from the tube it sits on top of, the bolt works freely. The very bottom pic shows where the bolt body sits on. Is something amiss here? I'd think that with no CO2 in the gun that the bolt should work fully, is this not correct?


Attachments:
QB bolt.jpg
QB bolt.jpg [ 92.06 KiB | Viewed 1048 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:23 pm 
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Joolz wrote:
However before I leave I wanted to point this out first: as seen in the pic below the bolt doesn't close all the way. That's as far as it goes. Once I removed it from the tube it sits on top of, the bolt works freely. The very bottom pic shows where the bolt body sits on. Is something amiss here? I'd think that with no CO2 in the gun that the bolt should work fully, is this not correct?


Yes, the bolt should close all the way whether there is Co2 in it or not.

8)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:33 pm 
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As I mentioned in PMs, the cocking pin was likely on the wrong side of the cutout in the bolt.... Here is a photo showing the correct locations of the pins....

Image

I'm guessing that the hammer pin was in front of the cocking lug on the bolt instead of behind it....

Bob

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:44 pm 
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Oh that's what you meant earlier. Gotcha, the picture really helps understanding it. K, will be sure to follow the pic you posted as I put it together.

One more thing: as I look inside the tube and other parts I see some crud and other particles that shouldn't be there. Kinda tough to clean those with say, a thin rod and some baby wipes (trust me, baby wipes have many uses outside of intended target). Although if not careful one can leave a bit of fibre behind. With this in mind I'd think that spraying some cleaning solution from a spray can to be preferred. What is safe to use? Contact cleaner OK? I'd avoid any rubber, this would mostly be for the metal parts. Then I'd apply the dialectic grease once it dries up. Good plan?
Again, thanks for the guidance. Making progress here (where's the icon for a thumbs up when you need it?)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 1:09 am 
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DONE!

Got it all in there, action now works. Loaded up a couple of canisters and it shoots! No CO2 leaking, no hissing sounds, no issues.
Well, that's the good news.

:cry: Now for the bad: I forgot to install the breech gasket, so the gun has almost no power as compressed air escapes from both sides of the breech. Thus pellets barely dent the duct seal.
I didn't even know of this part, it must've fallen off as I took things apart and just now found it laying on the carpet. At least this is an easy fix. That is, assuming I don't destroy the 3 seals when I remove the barrel.

Almost there, folks. Rifle is truly a beaut. Will post pics soon.


Attachments:
breech gasket.jpg
breech gasket.jpg [ 23.38 KiB | Viewed 991 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 10:39 am 
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You don't need to pull the barrel out of the breech to replace the breech seal.... While you're at it, throw away the stock seal and use one from a Crosman 13XX or 22XX.... just the rubber seal, not the metal sleeve.... It's a perfect fit, conforms to the curved valve and breech, and is larger with more flow....

Bob

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