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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:27 am 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
Ace, I'm flattered you took the time to answer me in such a detailed way! Indeed, your recommendation is welcomed, I'm totally open-minded about suggestions. The reason why I put a return spring is that I wanted to have a ''2-stage'' feeling on the trigger, which is done. However, I perfectly understand your point and I'll try it without the return spring to see what's the result; I anticipate a fast response from the sear, and since I didn't polished the hammer and tube yet, when it's done the trigger could become very sensitive.

The way I built it, the safety is still fully functional, which is important for me.I plan to fabricate a bronze cross-bolt for it, and Huck gave me an idea about the safety's spring. I would like to be able to remove the side plate without the spring flying away when I'll do trigger work, without having to lift the pump tube before.

The general idea about my modifications is to improve the pistol's functionalities and ease of work on it, while keeping it under 500 fps. I'd like to tune the ''chassis'' without touching the ''engine'', if I can speak in a mechanic's way! The goal is to make it efficient and reliable, and keeping it legal. I need a chrony!

Greetings


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:46 am
Posts: 4121
no problem were all here to help each other out if we can in any way....and suggestion's are just that, and doesn't necessarily mean its the right or wrong way its just a suggestion...
cheers... :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 1:10 am 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
Here's another part, a carbine all metal stock, started today. 12'' long, made with 1/2'' mild steel square tubing, 1'' x 3/16'' mild steel flat stock and a 5/8'' bolt. Is it possible to blue mild steel? I'd rather blue it than paint it.


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 6:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:59 pm
Posts: 306
Location: Hamilton On
I like your sight modification Airmec. I did something similar on my 2240 with an adjustable rear sight from a Crosman Vantage and a slight alteration of a front fibre optic i had for the 2240 barrel. Works well and provides fingertip adjustment with no screw drivers required.

Your shoulder stock looks trick as well. Will you be adding a cheek rest? I can't answer the bluing question as I have never tried my hand at it but I suspect it shouldn't be an issue. Keep up the good work man, i love a good 13xx thread.


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:15 am 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
Thanks for your good comment, Tinner! :) looks like the 2240 is quite a popular gun too! I scavenged the sights from my Phantom, on which I installed a CenterPoint 3x32 compact scope. I agree with you, it's so much easier to adjust and also to see where you aim (my eyes are not what they used to be!). Particularly when you use a target with a black centre or in dim light, those fibre optics are quite useful. They're quite fragile though, so I might replace them with bronze ones. That would also give me the opportunity to install a bronze barrel band (already on the drawing board!).
Yes I want to put a cheek rest, I thought I could use some bicycle rubber foam grip. They sell for cheap and come in a variety of models to choose from.
I got my inspiration from WW2 era German sub machine guns, always found them attractive and I didn't want to install a plastic stock.
As for the bluing, I guess I'll have to do some testing on mild steel scrap. I bought some Outers gun blue, which gave good results on my Roebel B6 bullpup carbine. It's quick and easy to use, and not too expensive, under 10$ a 2 ounce bottle I believe, and you can do a lot of guns with it. I found that surface preparation is the most important thing to take care of, but Outers also sell a good cleaner/degreaser.
I'm far from being finished with that pistol, will I ever be? :rolleyes: :D . Apart from the bronze sights and barrel band, I also plan on doing some mahogany grips and fore stock, maybe also a bronze breach, that would be an interesting challenge. Forgot to mention, I also made a bronze cross bolt for the safety, I really love the look of bronze on that gun! If you like that topic, keep on reading, it's far from being over!


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:59 pm
Posts: 306
Location: Hamilton On
They're never finished lol. And they are like Lays potato chips. You can't have just one. I have a 1377, 1322, 2289 Backpacker and a 2240 and have a hard time keeping my hands off of them. Seems like there are infinite configurations and parts galore. The most fun you can have with your pants on lol.

Look forward to the finished product. Should be blingin' (yeah I just used that word :rolleyes: ) with the bronze goodies you are planning. Have you considered a bronze pivot pin to replace the roll pin? Maybe a cheek rest of the same material you use for your grips would tie things together nicely? Sorry, just enabling heh heh heh :twisted:


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
Nice inventory, Tinner! These guns reminds me of the Chevys or Civics, so much potential mods and tuning :rolleyes: ! At first I never intended to add 'bling' items but, hey, why not if they also improve the functioning? A plain steel barrel band or trigger is not better than a shinny bronze one :mrgreen: .
I'm not sure I'd put a bronze pivot pin on the pump arm, it's working real hard down there; however, I already have some Allen head screws that will fill the bill.
As for the cheek rest, I didn't taught about doing it in the same wood I'll be using for the grips and fore stock, SUCH A GOOD IDEA! Thanks a lot :D .
For now, I'm finished with the shoulder stock. I mean, the metal part, er, temporarily... anyway!!! :D I'm sure you understand! As usual, here are some pictures.


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
My latest part is not finished yet (still very rough in fact!), but I couldn't resist reviving my topic. I'm currently making a high rise bronze breach for my 1377, and it's going rather well. I can't work as much as I want on it, but each work session is productive. The barrel now sits well aligned with the main tube, and there will be no need any more for a barrel band, since the barrel will be clamped in the breach. I think it's called a floater barrel?

The breach will be side-lever cocking, and the bolt will be stainless steel with an interchangeable tip for different barrels; I plan on adapting a smooth bore barrel for BB plinking and a .22 cal barrel, in addition to the .177 barrel. By using a clamp, I'll be able to swap barrels without removing the breach from the tube. There is exactly 7/16'' between the main tube and the barrel, not 1/4'' as I first planed. There's no specific reason for that, I just like the way it looks. It will also give me ample room for a muzzle brake or an air striper.

I found the way how to use my drill press as a ''poor man'' milling machine, which is very useful! I'm using a two axis drill vice solidly bolted to the drill's table, and I use a carbide straight bit to mill the bronze stock, with a fair amount of cutting oil. It's not fast, but it works well.

Here are some preview pics, I'll let you guess what the two other bronze pieces in the last pic are for!

To be continued... 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Home made 1377 parts
PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 8:16 am 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
As a side note, I finally found out that the transfer port original id is 0.086'' (drill size #44). The new one will be made with a 3/32'' (0.094'') ID. The new TP being about 3/8'' longer, the slight increase in diam. should help to compensate the added length without being overkill. It'll be made in SS and to fit like the original, using the standard seal at the valve port, and there will be a copper gasket at the barrel port.
The barrel port will be deburred and polished, but will remain the same diameter, and the leade will also be smoothened. The CDN detuned valve and piston will remain unmodified; all the sealing parts are still in good shape, so only a good cleaning and light lubing will do. The hammer will benefit from a bit of polishing too, but will remain unchanged in weight, and the original length spring will be used. And finally, the main tube will deburred, polished and cleaned, and touched-up with cold bluing.
Some fun things to do inside this rainy and snowy week-end 8) .


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