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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 11:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2013 12:54 pm
Posts: 518
Anybody rebuilt a clone rws 350. I have the Ruger Air magnum .22
I just put in the vortek kit.
3 thing I think I missed
1. I Lost power ? Is there suppose to be washers at the top hat of the piston. I did not put any, is this why it is leading to #2:

2. I cant get the cocking lever to stay put. When shaking the rifle the cocking arm is twangling. It wasnt doing this before.
3. The safety doenst set automatically when I cock it. It use to set it automatic when cocking. Before reassembling.


Did I miss anything please advise & thank you for any input.

Alex

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Hatsan At44 Tactical .22
Steyr hunting 5 automatic
Ruger air magnum .22
Weirhauch HW100 .22
Gamo Expomatic .177
Benjamin Marauder DougP custom stock
Theoben SlR98 .22
AlEx Custom gun .22 (JezX built masterpiece) :)
Hatsan Atp2


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:27 am
Posts: 1108
Location: Thunder Bay,On.
This won't be much help....but it reminds me of the old saying....."if it works...don't #%&! with it." I destroyed my 1377 doin stuff I didn't need to do.oh well....

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1186
Location: Eastern Townships
Is the new spring the right size? Maybe there was an error in the Vortek kit?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Sometimes aftermarket springs are a bit short, but I thought the Vortek was close enough to work fine w/o shims. It's possible they sent the wrong spring, too short or too thin of wire. I don't suppose you measured it... Hows the cocking effort? Cocking effort is a good measure of the springs strength for comparo. I actually use a scale and measure mine at different points in the stroke, good for comparing springs and measuring work to reduce friction. I know you didn't measure, but did it seem easier?
The safety is pushed back by the piston, so if it doesn't push back now then I can't imagine what you changed. I hate auto safety's and stopping it is not as easy as most guns so it won't happen by accident. Unless the safety does push back but simply fires anyway, which is a different issue caused by a part that fell out or something. Did you take the trigger assy apart at all?
The loose linkage I'm not sure, I was wondering if maybe it was loose before and just you didn't notice, or maybe the Vortek sleeve isn't as tight as the metal one. Just a guess on the sleeve which I can't imagine would make a difference but I don't know what else to say. Some people put a little chunk of foam or rig a leaf spring in the stock to hold the linkage up against the gun, might be worth looking into. If I were to do that I suppose I'd make a leaf spring from plastic, like maybe cut from a 2-liter bottle. A strip maybe 6" long, half of it wide enough to wedge and stay in the bottom of the stock under the linkage, the other half narrower and folded back so it's springing up against the linkage. Bend it into a V shape lengthwise to make a channel so it stays centered on the linkage. If not strong enough make it two layers or put a little cube of foam rubber under to boost its strength. There are and better ways, but that is an easy no tools and no damage way to try. A quality hacksaw blade would also make an excellent spring, but making it stay in place would be harder or require a screw.
I hope you removed the oem sharp edges in the tube so the new main seal wasn't damaged like the old. And if you bought the O-ring type main seal then I suppose there's a possibility it cannot seal well enough and is leaking your valuable air. The Diana guns are better made so more likely to work with O-rings, but Ruger is not and I would only use a parachute type seal like it had. Speaking of quality, be sure your tube doesn't have obvious damage. My first Ruger was a disaster inside.
Btw, the Vortek spring part # is the size, so an 820125-35 would mean .820" OD, .125" wire, x 35 coils. I forget the size that should be in the kit, but it should be close to 830130-40. Oem is probably 820128-40.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2013 12:54 pm
Posts: 518
Hi .thanks for all the greag info.
Chevota.great answers...
1. I removed the piston sleeve has I read on the vortek site. I now realise that this was for the xl kit and I read somewhere that there is 2 different kit for the gun. One with a .130 '' wire and .14xx'' wire.
Different power as well.
I think I will take it apart again. Put back the piston sleeve (if the wire spring size is .130)
And if I understan correctly it should maybe help my cockng lever twanging problem.

Will change the piston seal oring with a oem xisico seal piston cup.the interior of the tube was terrible you are right.

Well will do all of it and come back with updates.
Thank you all.
There is an anwers for everything

_________________
Hatsan At44 Tactical .22
Steyr hunting 5 automatic
Ruger air magnum .22
Weirhauch HW100 .22
Gamo Expomatic .177
Benjamin Marauder DougP custom stock
Theoben SlR98 .22
AlEx Custom gun .22 (JezX built masterpiece) :)
Hatsan Atp2


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Ok, so am I to understand you removed the steel sleeve but did not put anything in to replace it? If so it'll make the gun noisier and possibly make the linkage looser. I remove the oem steel one too, but I replace it with a better fitting one I make from plastic. Less friction, less noise, and smoother cocking. So put the metal sleeve back in, and measure the spring while it's out. As for the O-ring seal, it'd either find a O-ring one size larger, or do some repair work to the oem parachute seal and see how it all works, I mod all new parachute seals to work better, and that same mod can often save a bad seal, or at least improve it. If you're interested in any of the above I can post some pix.
Unless you made a special request then you likely have a . to .128 or .130. They also have .135 and .142 which is excessive imo, but any spring can be toned down if needed.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 3:18 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
A few pix on the sleeve subject for anyone interested:


Attachments:
Untitled 1.jpg
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Untitled 2.jpg
Untitled 2.jpg [ 138.93 KiB | Viewed 456 times ]
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