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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:05 am 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 1:08 am
Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
I have a Ruger Blackhawk Elite (refurb) that has a really bad chamber. The rest of the barrel is OK. I want to cut back the barrel an inch or so and re-fit it to the breach block. I have the machinery (lathes and milling) and skills to do the mod. My question is regarding removing the barrel from the breach block.

Is it as simple as clamping the barrel in barrel blocks, heating up the breach block, and driving it off? Normally, I wouldn't bother with this level of mod on a $59 gun, but like my other two springers, they were bought to learn on. The Ruger already has a Vortek Docile spring and a new steel spring guide tight enough to require the spring to be "unscrewed" to remove it from the guide. I made the guide with a smaller hole through the middle to better guide the piston rod. The smaller hole seems to have made the trigger more predictable. The trigger is good enough now that I can shoot it well without any further mods.

The gun shoots quite well now, even with a gouged chamber. It should shoot really well once the pellet can be seated consistently.

To be honest, I enjoy wrenching these cheapies almost as much as shooting them.

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12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships, P.Q.
IMHO,, I'd first try to drive it out without heating. Use a soft metal pilot shaft, bronze or aluminium, and try to press or lightly hammer it out. Before doing so, you may also want to inject penetrating oil in the two plugged holes over the breach, and let it work overnight. These holes are a direct access to the barrel. If you shorten the barrel, you'll also need to make another notch for the pivot pin, and don't forget to make another light chamfer, about the depth of the rifling.

If you use heat, I wonder what would happen to the serial number. Also, the sides of the breach are pretty thin, so take care to not warp it. And while your gun is apart, you may want to do some polishing work on the trigger parts. I believe it's a T05 model, you just Google it and it's easy to find an exploded view and working procedures. I did tune it on my Ruger Blackhawk, and added a brass adjusting screw, the results are pretty satifying. Have fun!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 4:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 1:08 am
Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
Thanks for the response, airmec. I hadn't thought of penetrating oil in the two holes on top of the breach block.
Great idea :idea:
I'll take your advice and make a soft metal punch to drive the barrel out of the block.

The trigger mod you mention seems pretty straightforward. I'll probably do it after the barrel work.

Cheers!

_________________
12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2007 10:26 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Any Town ONTARIO
Some are pinned . Look closely .


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 1:08 am
Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
pelsby wrote:
Some are pinned . Look closely .


Good idea! -will do.

_________________
12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:35 pm
Posts: 3099
Location: Alberta Canada
Depending upon whom your builders of your bbl were. Euro built bbls are friction and a form of loctite fitted. Clearances very from -0.0005 to 0.0015 and are sweated on. Far eastern bbl can have a tolerance of more than 0.005 undersized and have an exzuprent amount of cementing agent. These are easy to drift off. A little heat will soften the cement. Soft drift of Hickory or Oak solid is less damaging as brass or 4010 Alum, yes bit more work but not as aggresive upon the block. Which vary upon metalurlagy of construction.
Just things to consider.

Regards

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:02 am 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 1:08 am
Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
Whitewolf wrote:
Depending upon whom your builders of your bbl were. Euro built bbls are friction and a form of loctite fitted. Clearances very from -0.0005 to 0.0015 and are sweated on. Far eastern bbl can have a tolerance of more than 0.005 undersized and have an exzuprent amount of cementing agent. These are easy to drift off. A little heat will soften the cement. Soft drift of Hickory or Oak solid is less damaging as brass or 4010 Alum, yes bit more work but not as aggresive upon the block. Which vary upon metalurlagy of construction.
Just things to consider.

Regards


Thanks for the valuable information that you don't find in books! Since the Ruger is Chinese, I'll warm up the block enough to soften the cement before I try to drift out the barrel.

_________________
12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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