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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:20 am 
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Posts: 61
Location: Burlington
Noticed a hissing sound the other night coming from my 2240. . Uh oh! I know that sound..

From what I can hear- sounds like the valve is leaking.

if the weapon is charged and the bolt is pulled to the rear- I can hear gas escaping. The when the bolt is closed the sound stops. ( assuming the gas is leaking down the barrel and will test with soap but I'm fairly confidant that it's the valve)

Left a full powerlet over night and returned to an empty ccapsule. 

Now I have noticed that when holding the breech up to my ear and tilting the weapon, a change in the sound can be observed.. from hiiiissss to bubble bubble - quiet-

As if it only leaks when held I leveled out. And stops hissing when tipped up in tthe air or pointed to the ground.

Tried screwing the end cap on tighter and it seemed to stop the hissing- yet the thing still leaked empty over night.

..anyways 

I'm wondering what seal inside the valve assay could be causing it to leak?

I've put a weaker hammer spring in and that causes some hammer bounce - but I don't see how having a weaker spring in there would have an effect on the valve when in standby 

Does the hammer need that factory spring to keep presume on the valve pin to keep the valve closed?

I'd assume cocking the hammer back would be ideal for storage with a powerlet installed because the hammer wouldn't be resting on the valve right?

Guess I'll be contacting scopes and ammo for a valve and maybe a seal kit if they have one lol

2240 with steel breech, Crosman stock and barrel

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:31 am 
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Location: Canada
Sounds like you have a leaking valve pin seal.
S & A have the repair kites for the valve.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:51 am 
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sounds like you have one of two things...either a little defect on the valve stem seal face, could be from some debris that made its way through the flow and got stuck between the seat and seal....or a little tiny peace of metal filing, and when I say little I'm talking tiny...you need to disassemble the valve and check the valve stem seal and seat with a very good magnifying glass... :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 9:21 am 
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Location: Burlington
Thanks guys!

Ace, sounds like a plan. When I get in I'll throw it in the soft jaws and have a look. Inspect it clean it nicely and give it some Pellgun and toss it back in to test for effect.

Would I visually be able to identify any faults in the seals?

Like have you ever seen something up in there?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:41 am 
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Location: Canada
All depends on how good your eyes are... :)

I had one that was easy to see but I'm sure some are not.

My seal was damaged.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:28 pm 
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Well here's the story..


was able to get the valve apart without issue- clamping the short end of the assembly into the vise (padded with wood)

Was not very impressed once I had a look inside thevalve body.. much more grit and such in there then I'd expect for only having the thing for a month.

Have only put about 500 pellets through her at this point though I have been tinkering around and it's totally possible that some stuff got in there.

I did notice the nylon seal that sits on the actual stem itself has an odd discoloration and seems slightly damaged.

That's gotta be the problem right there.

I wonder if I could hone down that plastic by spinning the valve pin while holding pressure on it kind of deal..

..or perhaps a stronger valve spring to hold more pressure on the sealing area to try and flatten it out.

Or maybe after time it'll seal itself?

Cleaned out the unit. Oiled and reassembled the valve without issue.

Making front stock to mount a bipod via strap pin before I throw it back together and gas it up-

but looks like if it leaks once i gas it up- it's going to be that seal.

dirty.

Can I get just that seal on the pin you think?


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One screw for the grip?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:32 pm 
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Because why not at this point lol


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:34 pm 
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Location: Burlington
The dirty seal

now that I'm looking at the pictures...

the spot on the seal..kinda has thesame sshape as that flek of locktite you can see at the bottom


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One screw for the grip?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:31 pm 
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Location: Burlington
Beauty. Made a quick bipod mount from an old daisy four stock and barrel band! Works great lol


fully assembled and little to NO leak!

Will leave it overnight and see if it holds the gas. But I think it's good now!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:06 pm 
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InterestingAir wrote:
Thanks guys!

Ace, sounds like a plan. When I get in I'll throw it in the soft jaws and have a look. Inspect it clean it nicely and give it some Pellgun and toss it back in to test for effect.

Would I visually be able to identify any faults in the seals?

Like have you ever seen something up in there?

sorry I didn't reply back sooner been really busy and just had a chance to do a little lurking again...
most of the time especially on very small leaks you can barely see the little metal filings...they usually sit right on the groove of the
indentation of the seat...glad you got it settled down you might still have a supper small leak only an overnight sitting with some C02 in it will tell if you were successful...
also don't worry about a stronger spring...the spring is there to create some initial pressure against the seat the real pressure comes from the Co2
@ 850psi that's more then enough pressure on the stem to seat against the valve seat...that's why I'm saying if there is the smallest debris on the seal and its not 100% sealing then air will find its way.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:58 pm 
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If one is limited to tooling and such. Chuck up the stem into a drill, hand or press. With a very soft cloth like that for cleaning glasses. A small amount of toothpaste (not gel type) and polish the valve stem seal material. Valve interior can be polished upo in the same fashion. Small dowel rod and hand drill. Just layer up the material to just fit upon the rod, glue it to the rod. Toothe paste polish away.
Other wise the stem seal can be refurbished in a lathe and some 6000 grit sandpaper. 20 sec fix. Matter of building a sanding block tool holder. Paper can be found at hobby shops and BusyBee tools. As fine as 12000 grit.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 4:17 am 
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Location: Burlington
Still no leak!

However - I did install the factory Hammer spring instead of my weaker spring this time.

This brings me back to the title of this topic- if that valve pin is indeed held shut by the pressure from the power let -
It's possible that when I use the weak hammer spring- and only a tiny pinhole is punctured into the co2 end seal- the pressure inside the vale isn't high enough to seal it completely.

Thus the leak.

but there is no denying that having that valve free from all that crap is helping things.

In the end- if the valve leaks with the weak spring and not with the factory spring- I'll understand what's going on and at least be able to have some options.


found that even with the small leak( and weak spring) I could still fire 130 14.4 grain pellets consistently and on target - but roughly half power

With the factory hammer spring I'd get 30 - 40 shots per power let

I don't generally like to keep co2 in my stuff when I'm not actually shooting, both for safety and to save the seal from deformation-

So having a super small leak caused by that weak spring shouldn't be a problem for me - since I want to empty the thing out before putting it away anyways.

And if I want that extended range and no leak I can switch to the factory spring.



And my kingdom for a lathe and mill! Haha

Machine tools are still in my dream bin unfortunately. .. I guess it'll be one of those things that'l have to wait until iI'm over the hill and retired lol

Needless to say that my drill press gets used as a poor man's lathe quite often lol

anyways thanks for the input guys! Not only have you helped solve the issue of the leak but helped me understand the cause!

Hopefully others can find this helpful too!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:31 am 
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InterestingAir wrote:
Still no leak!

Good stuff! :)

However - I did install the factory Hammer spring instead of my weaker spring this time.

This brings me back to the title of this topic- if that valve pin is indeed held shut by the pressure from the power let -
It's possible that when I use the weak hammer spring- and only a tiny pinhole is punctured into the co2 end seal- the pressure inside the vale isn't high enough to seal it completely.


Pressure will equalize before you can reload the pistol...hole size will effect how quickly this happens, but not at what pressure equalization occurs. Pressure does provide the majority of the force keeping the valve closed. Figure the effective sealing diameter at somewhere around .3" and pressure at 850 psi, force due to pressure holding the valve closed is ~60 lbs...considerably more than the valve spring provides.

Thus the leak.

but there is no denying that having that valve free from all that crap is helping things.

Very true! :)



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 11:49 am 
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InterestingAir wrote:
Still no leak!

Good to hear [color=#FF0000]glad it worked out [/color] 8)


I don't generally like to keep co2 in my stuff when I'm not actually shooting, both for safety and to save the seal from deformation-

So having a super small leak caused by that weak spring shouldn't be a problem for me - since I want to empty the thing out before putting it away anyways.

that's a good habit to get into...I know some may argue that leaving CO2 in will not harm things, but myself I believe its quite the opposite... :wink:



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:27 pm 
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Posts: 361
Location: Canada
Glad you got your leak fixed now mine just started again. :roll:

I use mine with a hipac at 2000psi.
Can anyone tell me who supplies the valve stem with the Delrin seal??

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