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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 11:00 pm 
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Yup. Not quite at half in my build, more like 60%, but with my regulator and HiPAC everything seems fairly well balanced for now. A stock Crosman hammer is something around 2.1oz and I haven't weighed mine, just carved and tested, carved more away and tested.... the steel is strong and its job isn't all that stressful. Just make sure to leave smooth surfaces to glide down the tube smoothly and don't mess up the sear face or the top side for about 3/8“ wide or so. Some have gone to a delrin hammer to get even lighter but I haven't looked into how one deals with the sear wear. Perhaps a hardened steel insert? And of course a hard steel bolt for the stem striker.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:37 am 
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GerardSamija wrote:
Yup. Not quite at half in my build, more like 60%, but with my regulator and HiPAC everything seems fairly well balanced for now. A stock Crosman hammer is something around 2.1oz and I haven't weighed mine, just carved and tested, carved more away and tested.... the steel is strong and its job isn't all that stressful. Just make sure to leave smooth surfaces to glide down the tube smoothly and don't mess up the sear face or the top side for about 3/8“ wide or so. Some have gone to a delrin hammer to get even lighter but I haven't looked into how one deals with the sear wear. Perhaps a hardened steel insert? And of course a hard steel bolt for the stem striker.


My stock 2240 hammer was 2.0 oz and my newer 1701-P is 1.9 oz.
Gonna get the disc grinder out this morning and take some excess metal off.
How about taking off about .030 (will that be enough for some effect?) from the valve stem end...will I still have some room left on the hammer pin slot,so pin doesn't hit either it or the rear of my extended probe?.Thanks,Huck

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 10:35 am 
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Can't help in that really. I'm more a cut a little and see sort of guy. Seldom measure anything. Same with instrument work except for certain critical measurements. Guess I'd approach it as a cut a bit off and test it and if it doesn't work fix it or replace it sort of thing. No doubt someone with more experience and patience in modding these things will come along and offer a proper answer.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:31 am 
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GerardSamija wrote:
Can't help in that really. I'm more a cut a little and see sort of guy. Seldom measure anything. Same with instrument work except for certain critical measurements. Guess I'd approach it as a cut a bit off and test it and if it doesn't work fix it or replace it sort of thing. No doubt someone with more experience and patience in modding these things will come along and offer a proper answer.


Summed it up quite well. Little at a time. Document changes. Next tune become way easier, quicker, etc etc. But then IJMHO

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 4:04 pm 
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GerardSamija wrote:
Yup. Not quite at half in my build, more like 60%, but with my regulator and HiPAC everything seems fairly well balanced for now. A stock Crosman hammer is something around 2.1oz and I haven't weighed mine, just carved and tested, carved more away and tested.... the steel is strong and its job isn't all that stressful. Just make sure to leave smooth surfaces to glide down the tube smoothly and don't mess up the sear face or the top side for about 3/8“ wide or so. Some have gone to a delrin hammer to get even lighter but I haven't looked into how one deals with the sear wear. Perhaps a hardened steel insert? And of course a hard steel bolt for the stem striker.


Just wondering where on the 1701-P hammer do I grind material off?....this hammer is round at the top and bottom and flat on the sides,so the only logical spot would be the top...maybe half wayto the hammer pin hole....I dunno,not really too much meat can be removed without causing problems....not sure now if I will be able to remove the proper amount of material without compromising the intergrity of this part??! How would you do it? Thanks,Huck

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 4:16 pm 
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Google Images isn't showing me a hammer like you're describing. Perhaps you could show us a picture?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 4:24 pm 
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GerardSamija wrote:
Google Images isn't showing me a hammer like you're describing. Perhaps you could show us a picture?

Sorry...I don't have the hammer out right now,but this is what it looks like: http://alliancehobby.com/twostage.htm
Second picture down on the left,showing the trigger frame...hammer is above that pic.Thanks,Huck

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 7:53 pm 
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Sorry, don't have a clue. I thought you were modding a 2240. If that hammer actually works in a 2240, great. I guess you can examine the important functions of the hammer and parts which come into contact with it and decide which areas could be ground away. But without the thing in hand (that's a terrible picture) I couldn't guess what might be done to lighten it.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:15 pm 
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GerardSamija wrote:
Sorry, don't have a clue. I thought you were modding a 2240. If that hammer actually works in a 2240, great. I guess you can examine the important functions of the hammer and parts which come into contact with it and decide which areas could be ground away. But without the thing in hand (that's a terrible picture) I couldn't guess what might be done to lighten it.

Thanks...I will try to take a better picture soon.Thanks,Huck

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:32 pm 
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GerardSamija wrote:
But without the thing in hand (that's a terrible picture) I couldn't guess what might be done to lighten it.

Here's a somewhat better rendition of the hammer from that picture:
Attachment:
1701Hammer.jpg
1701Hammer.jpg [ 43.65 KiB | Viewed 413 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:53 pm 
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Thanks for that pic! Huck

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 10:36 am 
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A few pics of the 1701-P hammer next to the stock 2240:Image
Image
Image
Left hammer is a touch longer..1.312 vs 1.300 for the stock 2240.
Left hammer weighs 1.9oz vs 2.0oz for the 2240.
Not much meat to grind off of the 1701-P,so maybe I would be better off with filling in the waist and do some grinding on the stock 2240 hammer..I don't really like having to hold the trigger to cock the gun.
Would the 1701-P hammer,being .012 longer,have a negative effect when striking the valve,possibly opening it more and for a longer time?.Huck

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 1:07 pm 
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If the end of the 1701 hammer is the same shape as the 2240, then the overall length won't matter at all.... It is the relationship between the center of the hammer face that hits the valve stem and the front bottom corner that grabs the sear that determines hammer stroke....

If you aren't going to remove at least 25% of the hammer weight, you won't even notice a difference.... you may as well spend your time elsewhere....

Bob

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:24 pm 
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The red line indicates about how far I'd grind initially then test. The green line is about where I'd probably end up grinding. Leaving maybe 1mm of steel outside what appears to be the threaded centre. Is that an adjustable hammer bolt in the core? If so, you have a nice tool there for fine tuning depth of hammer strike on the valve stem. Never any need to trim the stem when you have that function, if that's what it is.
Attachment:
reduced_hammer.png
reduced_hammer.png [ 20.39 KiB | Viewed 386 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 3:52 pm 
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GerardSamija wrote:
The red line indicates about how far I'd grind initially then test. The green line is about where I'd probably end up grinding. Leaving maybe 1mm of steel outside what appears to be the threaded centre. Is that an adjustable hammer bolt in the core? If so, you have a nice tool there for fine tuning depth of hammer strike on the valve stem. Never any need to trim the stem when you have that function, if that's what it is.
Attachment:
reduced_hammer.png


That is (was) in fact a threaded piece,which was originally screwed in and ground off...it is called a "striker"...Crosman part #1763A036. It came (hammer) with the drop sear two stage trigger group for the 1701-P.That hole seems to be threaded for 1/4-28 N.F..
The area that you indicated in green (very cool..thanks!)is roughly.147 thick each side..your marked red area seems to be maybe half that.I was also thinking of going in between the two holes on the top,maybe 1/2" wide,down .200,leaving the front and rear top portion intact. Here is what I was thinking: Image
ImageThanks,Huck

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