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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2015 10:07 am
Posts: 5
I recently purchased the phantom .22 490fps air gun. I purchased the upgraded piston and spring from scopes and ammo To increase the fps.

I have purchased a Nikon scope and am trying to sight the gun/scope but I can't get my gun to shoot in a grouping format

Does the gun loose accuracy when you upgrade the spring on the .22 phantom.?

Without a doubt, the power is huge. Previous to the upgrade the pellets would burry themselves flat into a 1/2" piece of plywood.

Now the guns shoots clear through the 1/2" plywood.

I need suggestions on sighting the gun.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:00 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
They do become less accurate as power goes up, but the guns are often inaccurate anyway for various reasons.
If you're up for tuning the gun, which isn't hard but may take some time, you should see some good gains. I have instructions if you want them. Too much to post here but you can email me and I'll sent it; chevota at hotmail and remind me of this post and what you're after. Model # of the gun will help too.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 5:05 am 
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Posts: 208
When the gun has more power how you hold it and squeeze the trigger becomes more important. You cannot stop the movement of the gun when firing, google "artillery hold" and work on that, it'll go a long way in improving the accuracy. I had the same gun and did the same upgrade, I never had any problems with accuracy. You can also try sighting your iron sights in first, you never know it could be the scope.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 5:16 am 
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Location: Kitchener / Waterloo
What kind of Nikon scope ? It might not be rated for a springer. They make some nice scopes, but for powder burners not air guns. A springer will make short work of some of the best scopes.

How many shots do you have through the Phamtom ? It could take as many as 500 to to totally settle down.

Jeff.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:27 am 
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Location: Thunder Bay,On.
First off...get yourself a chrony.....you will be putting it to good use over the years as your gun collection grows.I also have the phantom but decided to go with a only a slight power increase of 75fps over stock which I use for short range (90 feet or so) target practise.Accuracy is good(after some tweeking) and so it hasn't changed with the modest increase in fps. .You definitely HAVE to have better technique when spring tension goes up......as my PAL springers have taught me .Even the highest quality springers require good technique.Chevota's the man......if you need help along the way.....and you WILL....consider HIS advice. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:38 am 
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Location: Thunder Bay
If you are using stock scope rings, they will move with a full power spring. A one piece mount or "four screw" individual rings with a stop pin is required. Tighten the bejeesus out of them. Shoot a few hundred shots then tighten them again. Stock rings that come with a phantom package are really frustrating since they look like they are holding fine, and they don't.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:03 pm 
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The scope Is the Nikon Pro Staff 2, 3-9 x40. #6721

I wear glasses which seems to be part of the issue as well?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 5:24 am 
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Location: Kitchener / Waterloo
They are nice scopes but I don't think they are springer rated. What type of rings are you using ? Do they have an anchor pin in the rear ring ? Sorry I forget the exact name but it goes through the ring and into the receiver of the rifle to keep the scope from moving. As for the glasses once you get the mechanics ironed out, scope, rings, pellets the rifle likes and proper hold so long as you do it every time they are not bad shooters.

Jeff.

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Make a fast friend. Adopt a greyhound.
WAGG. Waterloo Area Greyhound Group.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:35 am 
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i bought the scope at shooters choice in waterloo ontario and they recommended the scope for high powered spring.

I am assuming they give good advice.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 11:09 am 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 1:08 am
Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
I would be pretty confident that any Nikon scope will ride a springer. I highly doubt your scope is a causal factor in your inaccuracy. However, the mounts may be. Changing to a full power spring will tend to emphasize inaccuracy issues that may have gone unnoticed, or were manageable, with the low powered spring. My Fury (phantom without sights) had lockup issues. Once fixed, a lube-tune made it shoot better than a $100 gun should.
You might want to check your breach seal too. It may not have leaked enough to make a difference with the lower powered spring, but shows up as a problem with the full power spring.
I always try to do the easy stuff first before tearing things apart.

My latest purchase was a fury np refurb. The live plunger was wedging between the detent rod and the breach block. The gun looked like it locked up, but the face of the barrel never touched the face of the compression tube. Held up to the light, you could see through the gap between the breach block and the face of the compression tube. Accuracy was patterns, and weird ones at that. I had to relieve the underside of the breach block to allow the detent plunger to be able to push the barrel face in contact with the face of the compression tube. Tightening the hinge bolt until the barrel will not fall or fall slowly when cocked solved the lockup problem.

It's gratifying to finally find the problem and have the gun shoot well. Good luck!!

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12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:08 am 
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Location: Edmonton
The only thing I don't like about Nikon scopes, at least those that an average joe can afford ($200 - $250) have fixed parallax settings at 50 or 100 yards -- at least the ones I have looked at did. There's some decent glass out there around that price range with turret AO. Not a Nikon, but neither is Nikon a Leica.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:11 pm 
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Location: Vancouver
If you're careful you can usually loosen the front lens and re-focus to your preferred range, eliminating parallax at that distance and reducing it substantially for a range of distance either side of it. I've done this on an RWS and a Simmons and it has improved my consistency a lot, as eye placement becomes far less critical when the reticle is focused for my average range. Most 'non-adjustable' scope objectives come set for distances beyond what most airgunners will find useful. I like a distance of about 25 metres. Seems to cover my usual 10 metre to 40 metre range nicely.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:08 pm 
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Location: Edmonton
Acknowledged, and I have tried that successfully (to a limit) on a few of cheaper scopes. I guess my point is, buy what you can afford and consider AO as a must feature, not necessarily side-turret adjustable, but adjustable down to at least 10 meters. That makes zeroing much easier at greater distances afterwards -- kinda zero at 10 meters and you'll know you are at least going to hit the paper at 100 meters (50 meters, whatever). Who knows, you might (and will likely) run in to a scenario where you want to shoot a closer ranges. For $250, you have no option to shift parallax on the fly.

Nikon is one of the finer glass makers on the consumer planet, but sometimes buyers accept the absence of practical features just to say they own a Nikon scope. If you're a hunter who hunts at a relatively consistent distance every time you pick up your rifle, a Nikon scope at ~$250 is an excellent choice: bright, sharp, and assembled to a quality that deserves the Nikon brand. But if you shoot squirrels at 15 meters in your back yard, go out in the field the next day and shoot gophers at 60 meters, and then go to the range with your friends on the weekend and lob lead 100 meters or more, do yourself a favour and forget the Nikon flash and buy merely a reputable piece of glass with mil dots and AO correction.

Or, grab a mitfull of c-notes and buy a Nikon @ ~ $1K

$0.00


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:21 am 
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Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
All excellent advice. My only comment is that cheap AO scopes will suffer poi changes when you change parallax. This won't happen right away. The threads on the AO will wear, depending on how often you change the range.

I have a stoeger AO that has many years of hard use. Now, I just leave it on 25 meters, like Gerard says. I have had very good luck adjusting the parallax to about 25 meters on non-AO scopes. Even the real cheap "kit" scopes (4X32 centrepoint) will perform well once adjusted.

I have noticed that the parallax setting on the cheap "kit" scopes is very inconsistent. Every one of them had parallax set at somewhere over 100 meters. One of the centrepoint scopes had the parallax set past infinity. I had to turn the front lens group out over two full turns! One of them had the inner retaining ring on the front lens group (the ring that is critical to the reverse recoil of a springer) so loose it took a full turn to tighten it up.

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12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 5:41 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Amherstburg Ontario
The trigger pull on the Phantom is really high and plays a huge role in how accurate you can be. If you like the power...which it sounds like you do...then do yourself a favour and concentrate on the trigger. The GRT trigger is a great upgrade, MUCH better than stock. Other than the trigger everything else is the basic stuff..condition of barrel...stock screws tight...barrel pivot snug. IIRC the pivot washers are plastic and you may want to switch to brass.

I had a Phantom that really shot quite nicely after dealing with the above, the biggest improvement by far was the trigger swap.

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