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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:53 am 
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Some of the pictures depict the reason why just cause you think you can, maybe you shouldn't. The rest is for the curious and inquisitive.

The Op produced 480grain .458 wheel weight bullets, that were said to be sized to .457cal. The molten mix was not skimmed to remove the impurities, leaving pure lead for casting. Upon shooting a bullet it had become lodged in the barrel. At this point the Op had the opportunity to return the rifle to Air Force for warranty. But choose to remove the lodged bullet himself. After some multiple firings in the attempt to dislodge the bullet. Which in turn pressurizes the breech and barrel with high pressure air. To depressurize means re opening the breech. A rod and presumably a hammer of some nature was taken and to forcible remove the projectile. The breech was opened where the hammer was engaged against the sear and the automatic safety system. Upon extraction of the bullet the trigger group was damaged, pivot points for the guide pins stretched out of clearance, the sear contact points flattened. Also damaging the trigger groups internal track. The barrel bushings out of their alignment upon the barrel. At which point the Op choose to beat them back into place with a hammer. Not only creating damage upon the exterior of the barrel but created tight spots within the Lother Walther .457 cal barrel.

Now as this is an only days old Air gun of a substantial value. Because you think you can doesn't mean you should. We don't need to go into what the Op was thinking and such. But it does show that if you don't understand and create a boo boo for yourself. Resource the information you require and have PATIENCE. Return to the Manufacturer, an Approved Warranty Outlet. For when it comes to a person like myself, it will cost you to have your prize acquisition repaired. Those are the facts. Understand what you have and how to operate it in a safe knowledgeable manner.
As for pushing IMHO way over weighted bullets for a big bore design, well the results are clear.

As to the rest of the photos, for the curious and inquisitive hope this works for you. It also shows the complete breakdown of the AF big bore valve. Do note the volume size for pushing big lead down a barrel at near 1000fps. It is impressive. :twisted:

http://s42.photobucket.com/user/Whitewo ... an%2045cal

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 12:35 pm 
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WOW - that is unfortunate. Thanks for this thread, Kim.

Not skimming WW alloy will still leave you with WW alloy. Skimming the dross off WW alloy will still leave you with WW alloy.

Pure lead has a brinel reading of 5.

Clamp-on WW alloy (without ANY zinc weights included) has a brinel reading of 9 to 13 depending on where they were made. If your bullets or balls look frosted, they contain antimony. Do not use antimony alloys in air guns. TOO hard.

Stick-on WW alloy are actually pure lead, ie: brinel 5 or 6 - maybe.(I've been told this, never tested them myself) They other alloys and lead, I have tested.

USE ONLY lead having a brinel reading of 5 in ANY air gun.

Do NOT trust ANY recycle or junk-yard/salvage outfit that says the lead they are selling you is pure lead. It could be anything from battery lead (about brinel 14/16) to antimony at brinel 21. Rifle or handgun Range salvage is usually WW alloy or harder. MOST commercial bullets (100 to 500 in a box) are harder than WW alloy and will run between 13 and 16 brinel.

Most people who don't know, think ALL lead is pure lead - afterall, there is no steel or brass in it, is there? - LOL

Hornady buckshot, sold in the 5 pound boxes is claimed to be about 3% antimony, about 7 to 8 brinel and is probably too hard for air guns, especially those under 500fps.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:04 pm 
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Thanks for sharing Kim and doing a write up. I am not as familiar as you are with AF guns, but I can see all the changes to the Texan parts. I am sure you're making very detailed drawings and dimensioning to replicate the parts in the future. Any idea what you'll have to order bs repair?

Thanks Kim!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:56 pm 
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Thank you Daryl for the lead casting information. Im sure those who read it will find it quite educational.
Rick as to drawings. Be surprised what a camera, calipers and a measuring tape can do for you...lol.
For what I found, parts would be a NEW complete trigger/ safety assy. Internal track can be deburred and polished out. The barrel IMHO, can be salvaged with lapping from breech to an inch or so past the last tight spot. It could loose over 0.001 in the tight spots before smoothing out. Then should be good to go after all orings are replaced for testing.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Yeah I here talking!
Took lots of pictures of that Crocked Barn receiver of Dan's and made lots of measurements of it. Definitely a better receiver then Crosman's design!

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Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 12:16 pm 
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Was able to check out the Texan last night. Very impressed with the valve and cocking setup. Not sold on Airforce trigger bits but the rest is great. Would love to spend some time shooting this rifle. With proper fit bullets around 250 grains
Should make a great 9mm and 308 or 300 shooter eh Kim?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:54 pm 
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Side cocking linkage IMHO could be smoothed out by machining in small RC bearings or for a do it yourself type some Delrin or brass washers to remove the flimsy feel to it.
For calibers the Airgun 30cal is too light :shock: :shock: IMHO.
But :!: :twisted: :!: with the selection of a casting in .308 in >120gr and the 9mm family. The only deterrent is what your wallet and the better half in your life :mrgreen: The Texan does have its Modular options like any of the AF family of guns...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 7:12 am 
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Been thinking about that tube?...... maybe buttoning would slicken it some as well

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:36 pm 
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Oh YEA....9 BUTTON :shock: system... 6 for cocking sleeve external with internal hammer travel area and 3 at the tail of the tube for stability in the frame. Then polish :mrgreen: A lubricant free system. Nothing to become dirty from field use. In turn creating a more consistant strike upon the valve. Increase shot to shot efficiency. Just the top hat buffers to adjust for a good bell curve increasing shot count. Oh yea the tweeking that can be had.... :twisted: :twisted: ... :lol:(psst figured it out already)
If my 35 can get 20-22 consistant shots from the 490cc bottle no reason the Texan cant produce 12-15 shots. So what if you loose 80 to 100fps. 930fps is the magic number as it is. Increasing the shot count by 150%....Priceless...Then put the 850cc bottle to her....hmmWhahaha.. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 7:11 pm 
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Near as I can figure the max cocking force on that side lever will be 10 pounds. Not very high eh?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 9:54 pm 
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Cough ...hack....spit...So I called it 12 pounds.... hack....spit....no math done.....lmao :lol: :lol:

Emails to me from south of the 50th, report 143 Hornady ball @ 1032fps=345fpe to 1104fps=387fpe unknown as to exact power wheel setting with under 2" groups @ 100yrds.
Boolits in the right hands and the Lother bbl should equate to 1 MOA.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 11:37 pm 
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Thanks, Kim for the updates.

I still got cast some .300 balls for my Bob Sterne barrel. The guy in England makes some real nice brass moulds that work with the Lyman handles. I gotta get those three 22XX rifles together this winter!

http://www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/moulds.html

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Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:02 am 
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Hmm...not to sell AF short, but all I'm seeing is a big valve...a big spring...and a lever to reduce cocking effort.

Not seeing anything revolutionary.....or am I missing something??

Al


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:14 am 
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Was waiting for someone to ask...lol.

Previous AF guns have all cocked upon opening the breech. The Texan on the other hand cocks the hammer upon its closing cycle. The breech and cocking sleeve are steel in construction. The breech, hammer, spring all reside in the cocking sleeve which slides within the frame.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:30 am 
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Well that IS interesting. :)

How long are you going to have this? Not sure yet but might be down your way next weekend to look at a trailer....

Al


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