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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2012 2:38 pm
Posts: 5
Hey guys. I'm looking for ideas on how to hone the compression tube on my springer(s).

The brake hones I have seen at princess auto (with the 3 interchangeable inserts) are not long enough to fit
and i have not seen any of the ball type ones that are around 1 inch diameter anywhere.

Has anyone done this? and what did you use??

Thanks gus


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:18 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 5998
Location: P.G. B.C.
Need to silver solder (hard, high temp silver solder - 1,100 - 1,400 degree) an extension to the brake cylinder hone's shaft. A welding shop can do this weld would be just as good. You may have to make a jig to hold the shafts in alignment.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
The problem with brake hones is they cannot reach all the way down so the sealing lip of the main seal will hit the unhoned section at the end. Plus the stones catch on the cocking slot. Bottle brush hones can't get to the bottom either, plus they do nothing for tight spots.
The way I do it is by making a hone just for the job. Pix should explain but if you want more details you can write me at chevota at hotmail and I'll send the complete details.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:39 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Illinois
I use a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe, cut long enough to have a handle, put some double back tape on one edge of the 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, stick it on the pipe all the way down to the end, roll the sandpaper around the pipe. You may have to cut some off as it may be too thick for your chamber ( I don't know the ID of yours) but once you get it so it will fit into the chamber, just spin it as you insert it. When it bottoms out, I give it a few twist in the direction so that the sandpaper won't try to open up. When it feels smooth, I turn it the opposite way so that the sandpaper tries to unravel and it make a tighter fit, then just slowly turn as you back out. I've done several guns this way and it works. Cheaper too.

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Diana 34 .22, Benjamin Marauder Gen II .25cal,

"You repair things with tools, you fix things with a hammer, if you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem !"


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 8:07 am
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Location: Central West River Nova Scotia
I use chevotas technique, but instead of a fat spindle, i use foam, like the foam in a tin of pellets, inside the roll of sandpaper. Once inside the tube, it wants to unravel and puts just the right amount of pressure on the wall for honing.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
Nod: You sand it by hand? I get the tube and drill hot enough that I have to let it cool a few times during the process.

Joe: Are you saying a stick with foam wrapped around it, then sandpaper over that? Interesting but not much pressure. Part of the reason my roll is semi stiff (I get a point for those last five words) is to put extra pressure on the tight spots. If you're not worried about tight spots then no biggie, but I always install buttons and tight spots cause problems. Even without tight spots it seems to me it would take forever to sand it. I suppose it all depends on what you consider sanded, which I consider is when every trace of the original surface is gone.
So I don't suppose you have pix of this roll you made? It might be helpful to pass on to others who want one that's easier to make and use than mine.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 8:22 am 
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Location: Central West River Nova Scotia
No pics, but what i do is put a 4 inch piece of tape on an aluminum rod. Then stick the sand paper ,cut long side off a sheet, to the tape, and as I roll the sandpaper around the rod, I put a strip of laminate flooring underlay almost as long as the sandpaper, and roll it up together. I only used this for polishing the tube with 600 grit, then 1000 grit. It works best if the tape is folded over the rod, so it can stick to both the front and back of the sandpaper. Tape doesn't stick very well to the sanding side very well. For smaller jobs, I just use the foam from a tin of pellets.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:39 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Illinois
Nod: You sand it by hand? I get the tube and drill hot enough that I have to let it cool a few times during the process.

Yes, by hand, all I sand it for is to get the "glaze" off and smooth out and high spots. It seems to work. Maybe I'm not sanding as good as I should ?

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Diana 34 .22, Benjamin Marauder Gen II .25cal,

"You repair things with tools, you fix things with a hammer, if you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem !"


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Oic Joe, I was picturing a thick sheet of soft foam like a marshmallow on a stick, but I'm guessing yours is closed cell foam so probably works pretty good.
Nod: Since they don't really need to be sanded at all there's no such thing as sanding too little. I just figure if I'm going to do it I might as well do it 100%. So completely sanding the surface and opening up tight spots takes a lot of sanding, wouldn't be able to do it w/o my drill.


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