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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:32 am
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Location: Montreal
Just wondered what the thinking is on this..


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:18 pm 
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I Dont. Should I?.

Somebody told me I should tight them to 15 pound of torque.

Good question. ..

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:20 pm 
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Location: Vancouver
No. I use a trace of lithium grease on the threads. Just a hint, enough to make them more consistent in tightening than the factory light oil or just dry threads. I like to get the bolts fairly snug, but they're small with fine threads, often into aluminum, so the chances of either stripping the threads or breaking the bolts is fairly high without proper lubrication and a lot of experience (or a torque wrench) with tightening bolts. I was a bike mechanic for years so have a fair feel for what a bolt can take. Haven't broken a critical bolt in many, many years. In the bike shops we used Loctite blue for a few things, usually lightly tightened bolts where they'd vibrate loose without it. For most things needing to be tightened, white lithium grease was the rule.

Of course the cheaper the bolt, the less strong it's likely to be, so I go easy on cheap ones. I don't have a scope on a spring-piston air rifle so my mounts don't tend to come loose anyway. Just like to have them snug so my zero never changes once set. With a springer you're probably best off getting a torque driver and finding out which bolts can take the most strain, buying those if your supplied scope bolts aren't as tough, then tightening to spec.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:41 pm 
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Location: Northeastern Ontario
I've never used Loctite on scope rings/base screws. The horizontal screws which hold the base to the dovetail grooves are typically around 35 inch pounds of torque; the vertical screws for tightening the rings on the scope itself have a torque value of about 15 inch pounds. These torque values ought to keep a scope in place, and on a spring piston rifles there is always the scope retention "divot" to keep the mounts from moving.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:13 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
No need for Loctite. Use a torque wrench to torque to 45 inch lbs.
I use this:
http://www.btibrands.com/product/fat-wrench-with-10-bit-set
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:20 pm 
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Location: Montreal
This is good thinking , thanks guys.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 7:17 pm 
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I never do but apparently some people have issues so they do. I think if the screw loosen they weren't tight enough. Torque depends on the screw and mount so 45inlbs might be ok for caps, but not enough for rail clamps on a dovetail. I also like to replace the cheap import screws with US ones because the cheap ones tear up and weaken alum threads. You can also take a small wire wheel to the threads to smooth them. Then I use a little oil or grease to prevent galling and tighten by feel. Sorry, I don't know my specs, only my brain does. The bolt length is a factor too, so if you need more clamp on a dove rail you can use a longer screw to hold more torque, but mounts vary.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:04 pm 
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Location: New Brunswick
rrdstarr wrote:
No need for Loctite. Use a torque wrench to torque to 45 inch lbs.
I use this:
http://www.btibrands.com/product/fat-wrench-with-10-bit-set
Image

Wouldn't there be a possibility of some cheaper quality scope mounts stripping under such an amount of torque?

When I began my career in medical equipment service I would use Locktite on every nut and bolt. Unfortunately that led to a lot of gummed up threads. Now I use it more sparingly.

Just what variety of Locktite is there?
I know that Locktite 243 is blue and meant for the occasional removal of hardware. The red coloured Locktite is more permanent.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:14 pm 
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Location: Vancouver
Any Loctite can be softened with heat, but one may not wish to use that much heat so close to a nitrogen-filled scope should it need to be taken off the airgun for some reason. I'd not suggest any sort of Loctite for scope mounting as the bolts involved are quite small, and such threads can be too easily frozen by even blue grade. Red is indeed more permanent, and green even more so. Use of either of those on tiny scope bolts would be somewhat foolish, in my opinion. If blue Loctite isn't holding your scope securely (if you think you need even that), then you've got other problems, as those little bolts are NOT going to come loose in normal use with blue Loctite.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:30 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
Loctite:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml
I use blue(242), red(271), and green(which I can't find). Red being permanent, Blue for temporary or high vibration. The green we used for loctiting bearings.

SureShot you might be thing foot pounds not inch pounds. 45 "inch pounds" is almost 4 ft lbs. "Two finger" torque on an Allen wrench(roughly)! For my benchrest and precision(sniper) rifles that have two or three stock screws, I set them at 60 inch pounds. 5 ft pounds! I always made aluminum pillars to epoxy bed the action and first inch of the barrel.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:47 pm 
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When I was working at Synchros in 1988 making mountainbike forks and other parts we used green Loctite in the assembly of fork crowns to the steer tubes. We'd heat the aluminum crowns in a toaster oven to something like 375°F then apply green Loctite to the room temperature CrMo steer tubes.s, which had been machined to 0.004" larger OD than the hole for it in the aluminum, the heat expanding the aluminum just enough to allow a quick press fit. Any hesitation or mistake would have ruined the whole assemblage, as the interference fit meant reheating would also expand the steel part. No threading, no set screws. Just green Loctite. The fork on my bike is still working fine after all these years. Green is rather permanent.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 6:42 am
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I cant give you a torque spec, but I used Loctite blue on my mounts just because the ended up coming loose after about 100 shots. (stupidly powerful springer). Don't base your decision off me though, I am a bit of a newbie with this stuff!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:50 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
magnum22 wrote:
I cant give you a torque spec, but I used Loctite blue on my mounts just because the ended up coming loose after about 100 shots. (stupidly powerful springer). Don't base your decision off me though, I am a bit of a newbie with this stuff!



You might want steel rings. Better grip usually!

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Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 3:52 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
Steel rings only. I use lock-tight on the screws, base screws on modern rifles, as well as lock-tighting all screws on springers. As few as 5 shots would have started to loosen the screws on the .22 cal Bam28C. It is a brutal rifle. The locktighted screws have remained tight.
Nice torque screwdriver. Might have to look into that.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:25 am
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Location: Canada
My scope is on and off so much I have know need for lock tight!
2240,s always changing things around.

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