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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
I just completed the Crossman 2 stage trigger mod on my Benjamin Classic .22 Thank you Chevota for the on line info. I carefully looked at all of the options on line and this one seemed to be the best. I had even ordered some 5x7mm bushings on line but after examining the trigger assembly I decieded that reducing the overlap on the sear any amount did not look like a good idea. Same goes for the longer adjustment screw. If I were to do this mod again on another gun I would attempt to drill and tap the adjustment screw hole in such a way that would still allow for the trigger spring to be retained. I think the 2 stage mod with a weakened stock trigger spring would be the ideal set up. My son has a Crossman Phantom .22 that I could mod but his stock trigger is much better than the stock trigger on my Benjamin Classic was even though they appear to be identical designs. Unless he starts complaining about it after using my modified trigger I think I will just leave it alone as it is probably the safest when completely stock.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:49 am
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Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
Pictures please!

Thanks, Rick

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-Rick
Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
Sorry Rick. I did not take any pics when I did the mod and all their is to see now is the 3mm screw that is flush with the trigger. I used a dremel tool to cut a slot on the screw so you can adjust the trigger with a small flat screw driver. You adjust the screw just enough to remove the free play in the trigger. If you tighten beyond that you will reduce sear overlap. The trigger is quite light and it is easy to feel the 2nd stage.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:49 am
Posts: 6029
Location: Victoria, BC and Clarkston, WA
No worries!
Just thought it always easier to share with others with pictures.

Thanks!

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-Rick
Pardini K10
Brocock Concept .22
3 Custom Crosman 2260
Benjamin Discovery .22 w/Joe Hickey stock!
Crosman 150 pistol .22
4 Crosman MK 1 pistol .22
Mrodair CP-1M .22 and .177


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:19 pm 
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Posts: 453
when I had my Phantom I did this mod....topic49844.html
This mod is easy and costs no money, it will lighten up the trigger. This is the best mod for the quest, phantom, vantage, ect....

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
You are most welcome, glad it worked out.
Pix from the guide for rrdstarr:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 9:02 pm 
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Location: Elmira
That is what I did. Thank you for posting the pics Chevota. Like I said if I had to do it again I would try and drill the hole in just the right spot to allow the option of leaving the trigger spring in as the trigger feels quite light now but a lot of people like that. Mine is drilled a little bit more forward than Chevota's and angles back. On mine it is just so the trigger spring pin will not go in. If I had drilled it just slightly more forward I could have retained the trigger spring. The first stage on mine gets rid of about 75% of the sear overlap so you do not have to pull the trigger very far once you hit the second stage.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:31 pm 
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Location: United States
You mean like this? It's much trickier to get the screw to touch the sear mid way between the to pins, but it is doable.
One idea is make a new/heavier spring for the lower sear which will add some pull weight.
Another would be to use the sears from the older trigger/NP2 trigger in the sketch. See how instead of having three different torsion springs it just has one coil spring? Do that and you'll have full pull weight again.
If you don't want to buy the sears you can mod yours to accept the spring, or similar spring.
Or figure a way to add your oem trigger spring differently, like maybe relocating the pin hole for it.
Just some thoughts...
To me having the trigger light like you have is it ideal. Mine end up ~16oz. So add what you feel you have to. The heavier the spring the harder it is to feel the transition between stages so with that monster oem spring you might not feel it at all.
You can increase the feel to compensate but I haven't added that to the guide yet since so far nobody is interested.

Btw, did you do any of the other tuning work? New main seal etc?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:16 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
Yes, that is where I drilled mine. I messed up on my first attemp and that is why I had to drill there. At the time I was just trying to make it work and not thinking about reinstalling the trigger spring pin. After seeing how nice it works and how close it is to being able to install the trigger spring is why I am thinking that it could be done. To weaken the stock trigger spring I will compress the spring with some vice grips and heat it in the oven at 375. I used that trick when I raced RC cars in a spec series that did not allow us to use anything but the kit suspension springs and the kit springs were way too stiff.


Last edited by GPZ1100 on Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
The lower sear on my trigger group is not identical to the one in the diagram. Mine has two indentations, one for the trigger pivot pin and one where the trigger pin makes contact with the sear when firing. The one on the diagram is just flat along the lower surface were the trigger contacts it. Maybe that is why it is so easy to "feel" the 2nd stage on mine?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:56 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
Did some more shooting today and l have learned a little more about the trigger. Although I do not own a GTX trigger I have read that when you pull through the 1st stage and then not shoot and let off the trigger the sear remains "half cocked" On my trigger with the angled screw the sear almost returns to its original position when you release the trigger with out firing. To me, this is a big safety plus. Thinking about this I believe the very best set up would be the angled second stage screw and a stronger return spring on the sear itself and not the trigger return spring that I was originally trying to incorporate. With a sear return spring say 50% stronger than the stock one I am quite confident that the sear would fully return to its original position if the trigger were to be released after travelling through the first stage and the trigger pull would be more "normal" probably 1.5 to 2 lbs The key to making this work would be finding a sear return spring that fits properly and is about 50% stronger than the stock one. Chevota...


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 9:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Yes the bottom of the lower NP2 sear is flat but it will work in the generic Crosman. Or you could rig something for your sears to hold a coil spring.
The sears usually do not return once the trigger is partially pulled and released (balk firing), but if properly sanded and lubed they will. It's the torsion spring on the lower sear that does the resetting and it isn't strong enough to overcome the oem friction. This is one of many bennies of tune work and using dry lube.
The coil spring version is much stronger so the sears should reset no matter what.
The spring in the trigger blade will do zero to reset the sears, it only pushes on the blade which make it a useless spring to me. So keep in mind it's only adding pull weight. It does however greatly reduce the odds of an accidental discharge when the gun is dropped butt first on a hard surface. If that's a concern then use the spring as needed, but I don't drop my guns so no worries.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
I have done quite a bit more shooting and I will just leave it as it is for now. I made a small adjustment to the screw, just enough to take the tiny bit of free play out of the trigger. This also made the 2nd stage a little shorter as the 1st stage now pushes the sear a little closer to the firing point. The best complement I can give the trigger job is that after just a few shots I was not thinking about the trigger. The gun just shot when I wanted it to with out thinking about it. BTW I was getting about 10mm groups at 10m with RWS hobbies. The Classic seems to like the hobbies for close range.


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