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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:56 pm
Posts: 462
Location: Tecumseh, Ontario in South Western Ontario
I managed to remove the trigger mechanism and the rear assembly of the hammer tube. That opened it up enough to see what had happened following the valve body failure.
Apparently after valve broke the smaller piece was driven into the hammer with great force. The hammer however was already locked in place by that wishbone shaped lever that is intended to prevent the hammer form rebounding after striking the valve stem. The force on the hammer bent the lever at right angles and could no longer release the hammer and so the it couldn't be cocked. I removed the damaged lever and was able to disassemble the rest of the gun. I repaired the lever and finished cleaning out the debris (set screws, epoxy pieces everywhere).
As you can see in the picture I repaired the valve body with real silver (4.75%) solder but decided not to use it because it's too dangerous. If it fails again and the valve stem gets knocked out it would be like a bomb going off. Instead I see it as a better solution to plugging the 5 holes and the channel for the next valve body.

http://www.canadianairguns.com/attachme ... 1449578630

http://www.canadianairguns.com/attachme ... 1449578633

http://www.canadianairguns.com/attachme ... 1449578636

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 9:59 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2013 12:19 pm
Posts: 361
Location: Edmonton
Aged wrote:
I managed to remove the trigger mechanism and the rear assembly of the hammer tube. That opened it up enough to see what had happened following the valve body failure.
Apparently after valve broke the smaller piece was driven into the hammer with great force. The hammer however was already locked in place by that wishbone shaped lever that is intended to prevent the hammer form rebounding after striking the valve stem. The force on the hammer bent the lever at right angles and could no longer release the hammer and so the it couldn't be cocked. I removed the damaged lever and was able to disassemble the rest of the gun. I repaired the lever and finished cleaning out the debris (set screws, epoxy pieces everywhere).
As you can see in the picture I repaired the valve body with real silver (4.75%) solder but decided not to use it because it's too dangerous. If it fails again and the valve stem gets knocked out it would be like a bomb going off. Instead I see it as a better solution to plugging the 5 holes and the channel for the next valve body.

http://www.canadianairguns.com/attachme ... 1449578630

http://www.canadianairguns.com/attachme ... 1449578633

http://www.canadianairguns.com/attachme ... 1449578636


Is there a way to see the pictures without logging in to the website its pointing? This is a very interesting topic. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 4:24 pm 
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Location: Canada
Quote:
Is there a way to see the pictures without logging in to the website its pointing? This is a very interesting topic. Thanks!


Image

Image

Image


Al


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 4:39 pm 
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that didn't work Al.... :?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 5:54 pm 
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Is this what happened. Nightmare!!!!


Attachments:
FB_IMG_1438956975673.jpg
FB_IMG_1438956975673.jpg [ 19.59 KiB | Viewed 1017 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 6:39 pm 
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Ace wrote:
that didn't work Al.... :?


:?

That's odd...it works for me...even after logging out on the other forum.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 10:00 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
Pics look good to me, Al....

Bob

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 12:00 am 
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Gippeto wrote:
Ace wrote:
that didn't work Al.... :?


:?

That's odd...it works for me...even after logging out on the other forum.

strange I couldn't see any, now the middle pic shows up....that's weird... :?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 3:17 am 
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Nothing here. Will someone please post them properly, or send them to me and I'll do it.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 10:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:56 pm
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Location: Tecumseh, Ontario in South Western Ontario
I was lucky to get a new valve body because 'sniper' went above and beyond to get me one. Many thanks Dan.
I'm sure the 5 screw mode would be fine if done properly. I however have a lot of experience soldering and chose to fill all six holes and the channel taking precautions to keep the flux and solder from getting inside. I then drilled the transfer port and the breach port slightly larger to 11/16" - 0.172". I used the transfer port while in the brass sleeve to guide the same drill bit into the valve body after making sure it was directly over one of the existing smaller holes. That leaves the valve seat as the bottle neck as Bob showed us. I carefully drilled it to 3/16" - 0.188". That opening minus the valve stem was close enough to the area of the other ports to push my luck any further.
Now for my contribution, I tapped the 0.172" port hole in the valve body with a 10-24 bit. Then I drilled a 10-24 x 3/16" set screw length wise with a 1/16" bit. Now with the port hole fully open I had full power and with the screw in I had a second lower power level by only removing the air tube and putting in the set screw. I was hoping it would be ideal for shooting in my basement range with lighter cheaper pellets and a much greater shot count.
Well before I got a chance to test it out there was a snag. I read how Bob's gun shot alright with a valve seat drilled out to an even larger diameter, 0.20" I believe and the valve stem reduced to 0.09". My valve didn't open at the initial 6 turns out on the hammer screw and at the full 14 turns out there was just a small puff of air. Is there something wrong with my hammer spring?
Does anyone know where I can get a stronger spring that will fit?

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