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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 6:42 am
Posts: 9
Hi everyone, I hope I am in the right section for this post.
I own a Xisico xs28m in .22 cal. It is very powerful and has a harsh recoil cycle (as I'm sure many of you know) and is a replica of a Diana 350. I mounted a Stoeger AO scope with a 1 piece UTG mount to the stock 11mm rail. After about 100 shots I removed the scope and noticed that the set screw that protrudes downward into the rail to hold the scope in place had deformed and caused a small amount of damage to the 11mm rail.I knew there was an issue because towards the end of my shooting the scope was moving slightly back and forth with respect to the 11mm rail.
It was as if the metal holding the set screw in place was not strong enough to hold the scope against the recoil of the rifle. The hole for the set screw was not very deep and I drilled it out by 50 thou (note, the hole is now deeper, not wider) which should increase the surface area that the set screw holds on to, and allow the screw to sit deeper in the rail. I also should note that when I originally mounted the scope, I did not tighten the screws which clamp the mount to the rail very tightly (a quarter turn past finger tight).
after I drilled out the rail, I applied thread locker to every screw on the mount and tightened the clamp screws quite a bit. I am hoping that the combination of drilling out the rail and tighter thread locked screws will eliminate this problem.

Does anybody have any comments, suggestions, or wisdom for me on this topic? Do you think it will work or am I looking at replacing the mount?
Ask me any questions to help clarify the situation if need be.

Thanks in advance for input.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 8:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:54 pm
Posts: 2411
Location: Northeastern Ontario
The Diana 350 and its clone models is a heavy recoiling air rifle, as you well know. Your mount was probably not on tightly enough. It is important to torque the screws on the mount to the correct value. On the UTG one-piece mounts, that should be 35 inch pounds on the screws that tighten the mount to the rail. (It's 15 inch pounds for the scope ring screws.) Better mounts, such as Sports Match, may give better results, but there is no substitute for having the correct torque for a magnum springer such as yours. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 9:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 6:42 am
Posts: 9
Penage Guy wrote:
The Diana 350 and its clone models is a heavy recoiling air rifle, as you well know. Your mount was probably not on tightly enough. It is important to torque the screws on the mount to the correct value. On the UTG one-piece mounts, that should be 35 inch pounds on the screws that tighten the mount to the rail. (It's 15 inch pounds for the scope ring screws.) Better mounts, such as Sports Match, may give better results, but there is no substitute for having the correct torque for a magnum springer such as yours. Good luck!


Yes, I know they recoil badly. I plan on a tune in the future to help it out a bit, But I just love the power!!!
I have not torqued it to any particular value, but they are very tight. Not damagingly tight, but very! The mount feels high quality to me, it is quite strong, but that is in comparison to some very poor quality mounts that I have used in the past.
I will keep everyone updated on how the gun shoots since drilling and reinstalling. thanks for the input penage guy


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6016
Location: P.G. B.C.
Amount such as this one, that clamped over a longer 'purchase' area, might be better for a hard kicking springer. I ruined a Bug Buster scope on a Bam28C in only a few shots. This is the .22 Version of the RWS350 magnum, I think. It is a nasty inaccurate rifle, but that might have been due to the scope giving up - LOL. I may install iron sights at some point to see how they do - maybe double aperture sights.

http://www.dlairgun.com/Mounts/Leapers/ ... DN460.html
I removed the tab that sticks down fro mounting on both my HW's. This mount works well on springers & allows better rings than air rifle rings to be used.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 6:42 am
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Daryl wrote:
Amount such as this one, that clamped over a longer 'purchase' area, might be better for a hard kicking springer. I ruined a Bug Buster scope on a Bam28C in only a few shots. This is the .22 Version of the RWS350 magnum, I think. It is a nasty inaccurate rifle, but that might have been due to the scope giving up - LOL. I may install iron sights at some point to see how they do - maybe double aperture sights.

http://www.dlairgun.com/Mounts/Leapers/ ... DN460.html
I removed the tab that sticks down fro mounting on both my HW's. This mount works well on springers & allows better rings than air rifle rings to be used.


Thanks for the input. My gun is the same as the bam28c. I have heard people say it is a very accurate rifle, just difficult to shoot well. whatever the case, my scope is holding up fine its the rail that is suffering, and The barrel droop is such that I cant zero the rifle for elevation. I used my gun with the stock iron sights for about a year and was displeased with the guns accuracy. It was within about 6 inches of my shot, which isnt enough for me. I would like to be able to be within an inch (I am talking roughly thirty to forty yards)

that mount you added in your comment would only solve one of my problems. It would compensate for droop but i fear the stock rail would still suffer, similar to the way it is now (with each shot the mounts work loose until the stop pin deforms the metal in the divet designed to hold the set screw)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Elmira
My Benjamin Classic .22 with a pal spring did the exact same thing. I think the heavier the scope the more likely you are to have these problems. magnum 22
let us know if drilling the stop hole deeper solved the problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:04 pm
Posts: 1078
Really need to make sure mounts and rails are totally oil free. Good cleaning with a solvent that won't hurt the bluing will help as well.

Bkl has some rings with 3 rail pinch screws as well as 3 ring mount screws.
http://www.bkltech.com/category-s/75.htm


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6016
Location: P.G. B.C.
With 3-set screws holding the mount to the rail, there is more purchase power/friction due to the clamping strength of the three screws added to the length of the engagement.

I'll add that there was no movement in the rails of my Bam28C.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 12:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Is the UTG mount like the one in the pix I sent? If so let us know if you try either/both of the mods.

Daryl: Is your 350 still nasty inaccurate? I had some serious issues with the barrel of mine that I corrected if you're interested. Mine is a T06 in .22, and my T06 has a different barrel than the T05.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6016
Location: P.G. B.C.
Chevota wrote:
Is the UTG mount like the one in the pix I sent? If so let us know if you try either/both of the mods.

Daryl: Is your 350 still nasty inaccurate? I had some serious issues with the barrel of mine that I corrected if you're interested. Mine is a T06 in .22, and my T06 has a different barrel than the T05.


I haven't shot the Bam28C in a couple years due to it's inaccuracy, Chevota - if you can suggest a way or method of improving the accuracy, please do.

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Daryl


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Daryl; I most certainly can help. If you want the tuning/info packet just email me at chevota at hotmail and I'll send it. Remind me of who you are, you problem, the gun, caliber, if possible what kind of trigger it has, like T01 or T05. Many have serious issues and the biggies imo are the main seal and rifling, but can be fixed or greatly improved.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 6:42 am
Posts: 9
GPZ1100 wrote:
My Benjamin Classic .22 with a pal spring did the exact same thing. I think the heavier the scope the more likely you are to have these problems. magnum 22
let us know if drilling the stop hole deeper solved the problem.

terribly sorry for the late reply.
drilling the scope mount out did help quite a bit, but it was by no means a permanent solution to the problem. the gun is still a work in progress as even with three mount screws threadlocked to thee gun the mount rattles loose after 50 shots. :x


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6016
Location: P.G. B.C.
Lock-Tite or Lock-Tighting the screws - helps. Also I drilled and tapped a 6x32 hole in the 17 degree base near the back end, and installed the screw with lock - tight, sticking down only far enough to engage the hole in the dovetail base.
Thus, I mount the 10 degree base on the rail and run the screw down into the hole in the back of the rail/base. My rifle has a flat base with dovetails, screwed to the upper receiver, not a grooved receiver. This unit has 3 screws holding it to the rifle as well as having 2 holes that admit a #6 machine screw down into them. This screw must be installed in the base, to help hold the base against recoil. The protruding screw from the 17 degree scope base, will hold perfectly, as long as a base with 3 or 4 side clamping screws is used.

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Daryl


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