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 Post subject: Refinishing pot metal
PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 1:08 am 
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Location: Cambridge, Ontario
I am curious if it is at all possible to refinish pot metal parts so that they shine like nickel. I am looking to do this on a stock 2240 grip and i am wondering if there are any processes that can achieve this. Cheers in advance!

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Thomas

Gletcher NGT-R | Crosman 2240 | Crosman 2240 (Polished) | Frankenrifle (22xx derivative) | Slavia 618
Walther PPK/s | Umarex SA177 | Umarex XBG | Hatsan AT44 | Crosman Vantage | Baikal IJ-22


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 11:45 am 
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Location: Hamilton
I don't have any experience personally, but have seen many air pistols on these sites that have a very
nice polished mirror finish, depends I guess on what type of equipment you have for doing it?
Pot metal or white metal, popular for all kinds of 'die cast' parts, a base of Zinc alloyed
with Aluminum, Magnesium and Copper, I believe.
I'm sure there are many here, that can instruct You for good results.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 12:32 pm 
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Location: Montreal area
By having done it on my M1911TAC, I have couple recommandations.

Use paint stripper to remove original paint, it will leave no sratch so you will be able to start sanding with finer grit sand paper, 600 preferrably. Then 1000 or 1200, 1500 scuff pad to make it smooth close to being done and lastly use polishing paste Autosol metal polish (found it at Canadian tire) with a dremel and 2'' cotton Wheel.

One big draw back, every time you will touch it it will leave traces on it after a little time. Every time I handle it I wear cotton gloves so not to leave marks and I hand polish it back every 2 months or so, meaning separating slide from main body and removing the grip's

Can't make a descent pict yet.


Attachments:
File comment: Since that pict I repolished it and I still can't make a descent pict.
IMG_7114.jpg
IMG_7114.jpg [ 149.36 KiB | Viewed 1049 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 12:46 pm 
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Check with a shop that does electro plating. Pretty sure a lot of car parts were pot metal plated with chrome. Base would be copper plating, which you could try at home with a few modest supplies.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoCyRQsDNco

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8Xo43sfLgY

Better pharmacies can supply chemicals in smallish quantities, sometimes the chemical isles at the hardware store...some stump removers and drain cleaners have other uses....hot caustic bluing, anodizing etc.

Find, read and UNDERSTAND the MSDS for anything you decide to use....before playing with it. :wink:

Al


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 1:44 pm 
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Location: Brant County
Ive been known to do a bit of polishing AND you already know where i live ;) just saying... Lol

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 3:16 pm 
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Location: Vancouver
Yeah, I'm with Al on this one. If you want your pot metal/aluminum grip frame to shine 'like nickel' you may as well get it nickel plated. I've had a couple of steel bike parts nickel plated years ago at a shop called Pacific Plating and they did an outstanding job, using copper first to avoid the inevitable embrittlement which results from direct nickel plating, then laying on a generous coat of nickel. At the time (late 1980's) I was advised by other machinists in the shop I worked at that nickel would tarnish horribly, that I should go with chrome... but I like the yellowed appearance of nickel much more, dislike chrome intensely, and I'd seen too much chrome become bubbled and rusted. It's just too hard for outdoor use unless going to a full-on industrial quality level like on old automobile bumpers, and even then it rusts out eventually. The nickel plated fork tubes on my mountainbike haven't suffered one bit in 26 years. I don't often bother polishing them, but when I do it's just with a cloth and a bit of spray cleaner, no abrasives or buffing compounds. They always come up to a lovely soft yellow shine. It won't be cheap mind you. I paid $60 for a couple of tubes back then. Probably double that by now for similar size. So I'd expect to pay at least $50 for a 22xx grip frame. But it'll be pretty if it's a good shop.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 3:37 pm 
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Ive heard that there is a decent plating shop in kitchener and i think one in brantford, i can get zinc plating done by a friend but it looks like it been painted with silver spray paint...

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 4:07 pm 
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Just make sure your finish is smooth before you get it plated. Even the tiniest defect will show up badly in the plated surface, catching the light far more dramatically than with a painted finish.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 4:45 pm 
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Location: Alberta Canada
If you opt to a finely sanded finish, polish with jewlers rouge Red first then repolish with White for a SS look or the Green for a Nickle colour look. Maintain with a product exclusive to Kal Tire called Extreme. Works upon chrome, ss, nickel and polished pot metal. Resists oil from hands that tarnish a polished finish. Lasts months. Works exc upon alum and ss auto rims too. What its designed to do.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:11 pm 
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Location: Cambridge, Ontario
silentman wrote:
By having done it on my M1911TAC, I have couple recommandations.

Use paint stripper to remove original paint, it will leave no sratch so you will be able to start sanding with finer grit sand paper, 600 preferrably. Then 1000 or 1200, 1500 scuff pad to make it smooth close to being done and lastly use polishing paste Autosol metal polish (found it at Canadian tire) with a dremel and 2'' cotton Wheel.

One big draw back, every time you will touch it it will leave traces on it after a little time. Every time I handle it I wear cotton gloves so not to leave marks and I hand polish it back every 2 months or so, meaning separating slide from main body and removing the grip's

Can't make a descent pict yet.


Wow that looks good and I shall probably give it an attempt once i have all the parts i need to have 2 complete pistols. For the supplies can they all be found @ canadian tire? I am new to the whole refinishing of metals.

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Thomas

Gletcher NGT-R | Crosman 2240 | Crosman 2240 (Polished) | Frankenrifle (22xx derivative) | Slavia 618
Walther PPK/s | Umarex SA177 | Umarex XBG | Hatsan AT44 | Crosman Vantage | Baikal IJ-22


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:21 pm 
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Location: Cambridge, Ontario
Gippeto wrote:
Check with a shop that does electro plating. Pretty sure a lot of car parts were pot metal plated with chrome. Base would be copper plating, which you could try at home with a few modest supplies.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoCyRQsDNco

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8Xo43sfLgY

Better pharmacies can supply chemicals in smallish quantities, sometimes the chemical isles at the hardware store...some stump removers and drain cleaners have other uses....hot caustic bluing, anodizing etc.

Find, read and UNDERSTAND the MSDS for anything you decide to use....before playing with it. :wink:

Al


Lucky for me my sisters boyfriend works in a lab and knows all about the intricacies of chemistry! If/when I refinish any parts i shall post pictures.

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Thomas

Gletcher NGT-R | Crosman 2240 | Crosman 2240 (Polished) | Frankenrifle (22xx derivative) | Slavia 618
Walther PPK/s | Umarex SA177 | Umarex XBG | Hatsan AT44 | Crosman Vantage | Baikal IJ-22


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:31 pm 
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Location: Cambridge, Ontario
GerardSamija wrote:
Yeah, I'm with Al on this one. If you want your pot metal/aluminum grip frame to shine 'like nickel' you may as well get it nickel plated. I've had a couple of steel bike parts nickel plated years ago at a shop called Pacific Plating and they did an outstanding job, using copper first to avoid the inevitable embrittlement which results from direct nickel plating, then laying on a generous coat of nickel. At the time (late 1980's) I was advised by other machinists in the shop I worked at that nickel would tarnish horribly, that I should go with chrome... but I like the yellowed appearance of nickel much more, dislike chrome intensely, and I'd seen too much chrome become bubbled and rusted. It's just too hard for outdoor use unless going to a full-on industrial quality level like on old automobile bumpers, and even then it rusts out eventually. The nickel plated fork tubes on my mountainbike haven't suffered one bit in 26 years. I don't often bother polishing them, but when I do it's just with a cloth and a bit of spray cleaner, no abrasives or buffing compounds. They always come up to a lovely soft yellow shine. It won't be cheap mind you. I paid $60 for a couple of tubes back then. Probably double that by now for similar size. So I'd expect to pay at least $50 for a 22xx grip frame. But it'll be pretty if it's a good shop.


Is it worth it for the price? Or should i look at alternative methods because i am looking to do something similar to this gun http://s275.photobucket.com/user/frenchi93/media/IMGP2361.jpg.html

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Thomas

Gletcher NGT-R | Crosman 2240 | Crosman 2240 (Polished) | Frankenrifle (22xx derivative) | Slavia 618
Walther PPK/s | Umarex SA177 | Umarex XBG | Hatsan AT44 | Crosman Vantage | Baikal IJ-22


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:27 am
Posts: 2514
Location: Vancouver
Worth the price? That really comes down to your opinion. If you want the ultimate in a 'nickel' shiny finish, then nickel plating is the only way to go. If you don't mind maintaining a buffed finish then no doubt Whitewolf's recommendation makes sense. Either way you're going to have to polish the grip frame surfaces which are visible until they're beautiful. You can always try the buffed finish for a while, then if you still want it brighter later just take it to a plating shop and have them do a good job.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 8:19 pm 
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Location: Cambridge, Ontario
GerardSamija wrote:
Worth the price? That really comes down to your opinion. If you want the ultimate in a 'nickel' shiny finish, then nickel plating is the only way to go. If you don't mind maintaining a buffed finish then no doubt Whitewolf's recommendation makes sense. Either way you're going to have to polish the grip frame surfaces which are visible until they're beautiful. You can always try the buffed finish for a while, then if you still want it brighter later just take it to a plating shop and have them do a good job.


If i simply take the finish off and buff it out how prone to rust will it be as opposed to the nickel plating?

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Thomas

Gletcher NGT-R | Crosman 2240 | Crosman 2240 (Polished) | Frankenrifle (22xx derivative) | Slavia 618
Walther PPK/s | Umarex SA177 | Umarex XBG | Hatsan AT44 | Crosman Vantage | Baikal IJ-22


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:27 am
Posts: 2514
Location: Vancouver
There is no iron in a Crosman grip frame so it can not rust in the sense of turning red-brown. The metal will oxidize with hand contact and air exposure, becoming a dull grey over time. But it won't deteriorate unless your perspiration is very acidic.


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