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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 8:14 pm 
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Location: United States
Some pix from my guide of a Crosman and one of a Diana. Should make sense when you absorb these and think about it, but I can answer any Q's, and or I can just send you (anyone) the guide. chevota at hotmail. Just say who you are, the gun in question and what your goals are in case I have other info to add.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 5:37 am 
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Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 10:17 am 
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Location: Ontario
Plastic from totes or a thick Tupperware container and also white plastic bottles is an exellent source for making sound and shock dampening sleeves, pipes & tubes of various sizes from coat racks and shelfs, rack shelf's etc are a good source for making spring sleeves. A tophat for the end of the spring is also a good thing to have added into a modified piston as it centers the helical force of the spring so that it keeps a low center of gravity and keeps all the outward forces concentrated in a centered mass.

Control the spring, tame the spring, center the spring, concentrate its forces to the center and you'll have a much better firing gun and a power increase, my chronograph doesn't lie !


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 2:20 pm 
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How do you apply pressure to the tube cover item 7 to remove the spring without damaging it?Image



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 2:21 pm 
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Its soft plastic.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 2:25 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 7:10 pm 
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Location: United States
You can either simply compress at the end of the plastic and not worry about it, which I've done but never against a hard surface. I push it down against the carpet or just use my hand/thumb. So with a compressor I guess some rubber or a sock folded up? To completely avoid risk to the end using a compressor you can use a little block of wood or something that fits in the notch, like picture a 1/2"x1/2"x1" or larger block. Just be wary and hold the gun so it doesn't slip off the block :o I assume those black pads on your compressor are steel and pivot on a ball joint? If so then I guess it makes it all the more sketchy, so I'd consider putting something over each pad to prevent slippage, like maybe a sheet of bicycle inner tube rubber? Probably tmi but some people have no clue about tools or the stored power in there and I'd hate to see someone lose an eye, teeth, or dent a nice car when the thing launches. Many people use those cheap plastic clamps, which is imo asking for it.
Anyway... once the cap is out you can cut the caps holes into slots, like how they did for the trigger bolt. (I assume the factory compresses it w/o the cap, holds it together with the trigger bolt, slips the cap in, then the pin. You can also take it apart that way if you want but it may cosmetically damage the hole in the receiver.) Going back together you compress the gun w/o the cap, install the pin, install the cap, then install/tighten the trigger bolt :) The caps on the nitro guns already have this mod (slots vs holes), but nitro caps won't fit coil guns w/o being trimmed so no point in getting one.
To get the cap in there the spring guide end needs to be somewhat centered in the receiver, so if needed I use a small screwdriver to pry it over to center. Mine slide easy but as part of my tuning work I sand and lube both the pin and hole in the guide, so if you don't do that then I suppose the pin may slide with it? You'll figure it out...


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 5:31 am 
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Great info thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 9:55 am 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Honestly you do not need to take the C clip off the trigger mech. I just turn the bear trap lever and pop it off that end.


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