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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2016 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
I know many youtube videos for this but here is simple how to. Or similar B18 models.

Spring and Nitro piston should be the same process. Minus the NP will not have a top hat, spring and spring guide.

Here are the tools I use.

Thumb wrench, #2 Phillips, Flathead, a zip tie, plyers/scissor, a hook, gloves, a rod. OH SAFETY GLASSES

Image

First remove the 3 #2 phillips screws ( 1 on each side and the rear most in the trigger guard )

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Lift action out of the stock. Place some wheres safe.

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Than use a wide flathead ( If it never was removed it might be hard )

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Wiggle the barrel away from the action.

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Go down to the bear trap lever and rotate it so it lines up with the linkage from the trigger.

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Like this.

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Pulling forward on the linkage get it over the bear trap lever. If it doesn't, its not lined up.

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Than take the barrel assembly and lever and remove it from its slot on the action.

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Left with this.

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Remove this bolt.

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Now your ready to put it in a spring compressor. ( 3 blocks of wood and a scissor jack works well ) WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

I'm strong enough, and mines only a 495 FPS that their no real spring tension so I'm able to push down and remove the pin. But recommend using a spring compressor.

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Pin out, tension off.

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Grab the action and the spring guide. Pull out the spring guide and spring.

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The top hat might come out.

Then pull back and wiggle on the trigger assembly and pull it out.

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Than I use a hook and pull out the piston. ( usually when I remove my top hat )

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Now you can debur the action. Clean up all the factory oil. Re lube etc

Assembly Just like taking it apart but in reverse order.

Insert the piston making sure the seal doesn't get caught on the groves ( why I said to debur ) That why I use the rod to push it back in.

Now here's where the zip tie comes in handy ( could use string ) Loop it around the safety catch and the sear.

Image

Place the spring and guide rod back in.

Put the trigger mech back into its groove

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Than slide it forward.

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Now your ready to compress the spring and put the pin back in. ( spring guide locks the trigger mech into the action ) Once that is done your able to cut the zip tie. Pulling it away and allowing the sear to rest back where it suppose to. Than re install the bolt.

Back to looking like this.

Image

Then put the cocking lever back into the slot, line up the bear trap with the linkage on the trigger.

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Pull it over and down onto. Wiggle the barrel back in. Insert the bolt and tighten. Close the barrel and rotate the bear trap lever, to being back up and down.

Reinstall the action and the screws.

Your done.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 8:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:50 am
Posts: 114
Location: Nova Scotia
Thanks Robert...this helps a lot...I have to buy the lubricants before I do my teardown...what do you use to de-bur? And are you de-buring the inside of the tube?

Sent from my B1-770 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
Good job, I think I'll direct noobs here to check it out. Also glad you showed compressing it by hand.
Is that a 7-Up piston liner? :)
Fyi if interested people can cut the holes in the plastic end cap so it can be removed/installed separately. The first time I ever put one together it gave me grief trying to align everything up so I immediately cut the holes. As you probably know the nitro guns caps are already like that so I figured the factory was sick of fighting them too.
I like the idea of twisting the dealie in the linkage rather than taking the bear trap deal off the trigger. Some people have a hard time getting it back on so good work. The ziptie is also a good idea. I don't use the safety so I've been putting a piece of plastic sheet over the slot so the sear doesn't fall in.
Is that metal tape on the guide? Recently someone told me they used metal tape (you?) and I wondered if it held up.
Msit: A cheap way to debur is good quality wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around something flat like a popsicle stick to get the straight edges, and something round like a skewer to get the round end and holes. The edges fillet the seal like a potato peeler so a must do imo. I use a Dremel with diamond bits and a Revlon ceramic nail file btw.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 10:12 pm 
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Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Chevota wrote:
Good job, I think I'll direct noobs here to check it out. Also glad you showed compressing it by hand.
Is that a 7-Up piston liner? :)
Fyi if interested people can cut the holes in the plastic end cap so it can be removed/installed separately. The first time I ever put one together it gave me grief trying to align everything up so I immediately cut the holes. As you probably know the nitro guns caps are already like that so I figured the factory was sick of fighting them too.
I like the idea of twisting the dealie in the linkage rather than taking the bear trap deal off the trigger. Some people have a hard time getting it back on so good work. The ziptie is also a good idea. I don't use the safety so I've been putting a piece of plastic sheet over the slot so the sear doesn't fall in.
Is that metal tape on the guide? Recently someone told me they used metal tape (you?) and I wondered if it held up.
Msit: A cheap way to debur is good quality wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around something flat like a popsicle stick to get the straight edges, and something round like a skewer to get the round end and holes. The edges fillet the seal like a potato peeler so a must do imo. I use a Dremel with diamond bits and a Revlon ceramic nail file btw.


Thanks.

My first phantom I took the linkage off the trigger. But I kept on stretching the spring too much. Been doing it the way I shown being it much easier. Plus no risk in loosing the c clip.

Yeah AC duct seal tape. It works good. Too tight and it tears.

Yeah its no name pop, don't drink pop really so I just dumped it. Its not working as good as my alum can, but its not shredding up. Wouldnt mind a proper piston liner.

I deburr by a wooden dowel, tape and sand paper. Wrap the paper around the dowel and tape it on. I mainly just make sure the seal doesn't catch.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:59 am 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 1:08 am
Posts: 480
Location: Thunder Bay
Well done! Nice clear pictures of the parts that matter.
Wish I'd had this to follow for my first tear down.

_________________
12 springers and a couple of pumpers.
2 lathes and lots of scrap metal.

I'm not multitasking. I'm doing something else until I remember what I was doing.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
ricksplace wrote:
Well done! Nice clear pictures of the parts that matter.
Wish I'd had this to follow for my first tear down.


Thanks. Some steps you need 2 hands. Just hard to do while trying to take pictures.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 6:37 am 
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Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
I guess I got another gun to strip so I'll be making one on a Diana 34/Ruger Airhawk.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 6:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:27 am
Posts: 1108
Location: Thunder Bay,On.
Great tutorial.....It will no doubt help a lot of tinkerers and tuners.That little lever on the trigger was a bugger until I figured out to use a piece of fishing line under it, pulling it up and to the rear and then push the trigger in place .Works good.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 8:44 am 
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Posts: 26
Awesome post!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 8:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
MyCrosman wrote:
Great tutorial.....It will no doubt help a lot of tinkerers and tuners.That little lever on the trigger was a bugger until I figured out to use a piece of fishing line under it, pulling it up and to the rear and then push the trigger in place .Works good.


Thanks. The bear trap lever and the sear was originally where I messed up a lot.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:24 am
Posts: 1545
Location: Calgary
Talk about a timely post. Will be taking apart my two Phantoms shortly for a lube job and really appreciate the detailed steps. Better than youtube videos as these are often crude, shaky and lacking in detail (often accompanied by some truly awful background music). Will be referring to this post, which is why I'm replying to it so that it can be found later a bit easier. Looking forward to your how-to for the Airhawk as I plan to upgrade the spring in it, after I get my hands dirty with the Phantoms.
Cheers

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Joolz wrote:
Talk about a timely post. Will be taking apart my two Phantoms shortly for a lube job and really appreciate the detailed steps. Better than youtube videos as these are often crude, shaky and lacking in detail (often accompanied by some truly awful background music). Will be referring to this post, which is why I'm replying to it so that it can be found later a bit easier. Looking forward to your how-to for the Airhawk as I plan to upgrade the spring in it, after I get my hands dirty with the Phantoms.
Cheers


Thanks

Just posted the Airhawk one.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 12:35 pm
Posts: 4
Nice write up and pics but the reason most guys tear down a rifle is to tune it and you didn't go into very much detail so for a new guy wanting to tune his rifle, you kinda leave him hanging on what areas to to deburr, what to use and and there's a few things you left out that would add to making things even better when it's done, so...
Now that it's apart, clean everything really well, I like non chlorinated brake cleaner but you can use anything that will do a good job degreasing because whatever they used to lube the rifle probably isn't going to mix well with the moly paste used during reassembly.
The cocking slot is stamped in there on a machine and can possibly leave rough edges inside the tube and it's just easier to remove any doubt by deburring those edges and the edges where the end cap slides in especially because this is the first place your new piston seal is going to come in contact with when you slide the piston back in. You can use something as simple as a nail file to do it or get a set of angled hobby files like the ones I did off Ebay that make it even easier plus they're handy for other things:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10-PIECE-RIFLER- ... SwabhUX8nb
Now is where that dowel and sand paper come in. Wrap some 400 grit wet/dry around the dowel and lightly hone the inside of the compression chamber. Just spin it in and out 5 or 6 times and it will finish up the cocking slot edges and crosshatch the inside of the tube. Wipe it out with some paper towel, then wrap a fresh piece around the dowel, put some moly on it and do the same thing as you did with the sand paper which will burnish the moly paste onto the inside of the tube and fill that crosshatching and help keep everything nicely lubed down the road.
You also never mentioned anything about the spring ends which tend to be a little rough and don the road may dig into your spring guide and tophat and start binding up the spring. I use one of those files and smooth off any burrs, then lay the 400 grit in a small pan of water and polish both ends by just rubbing the spring ends in a circular motion for a couple minutes,
You can also use that file and 400 grit to deburr and polish the end of the cocking arm and the barrel forks which will also make things move a lot smoother.
Now just install that new piston seal and use a light coat of moly paste just behind it. Make sure none gets in front or you may get some dieseling your first few shots and making sure to lube those newly polished spring ends, the spring (I lube the whole thing with moly paste) the spring guide and tophat, then reassemble using leadslinger's nice write up and pics.
Don't forget to lube the end of that cocking arm and the barrel forks when you reinstall the barrel and a little on the piston sleeve I saw in his pics won't hurt either. Also a good idea to use a dab of Loctite Blue 242 thread lock on any screws to help stop them from possibly vibrating out later and by using the Blue, they come out pretty easy down the road if you ever want to take the rifle apart again. Recommended moly paste is usually anything with a 60% or higher moly content. It's a little on the pricey side but Honda M77 (used to be Honda 60) available at any Honda dealer is a good one or you can find it on Ebay.
I surfed a lot looking for ideas and ways to make a piston sleeve. The best I've found so far was here if you're considering making one: http://thespringerlounge.myfastforum.org/about12.html
Hope this helps in some way for anyone new. There's lots of ways it can be done and I'm sure others will chime in, this is just how I tune mine.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
LeadForAll wrote:
Nice write up and pics but the reason most guys tear down a rifle is to tune it and you didn't go into very much detail so for a new guy wanting to tune his rifle, you kinda leave him hanging on what areas to to deburr, what to use and and there's a few things you left out that would add to making things even better when it's done, so...
Now that it's apart, clean everything really well, I like non chlorinated brake cleaner but you can use anything that will do a good job degreasing because whatever they used to lube the rifle probably isn't going to mix well with the moly paste used during reassembly.
The cocking slot is stamped in there on a machine and can possibly leave rough edges inside the tube and it's just easier to remove any doubt by deburring those edges and the edges where the end cap slides in especially because this is the first place your new piston seal is going to come in contact with when you slide the piston back in. You can use something as simple as a nail file to do it or get a set of angled hobby files like the ones I did off Ebay that make it even easier plus they're handy for other things:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10-PIECE-RIFLER- ... SwabhUX8nb
Now is where that dowel and sand paper come in. Wrap some 400 grit wet/dry around the dowel and lightly hone the inside of the compression chamber. Just spin it in and out 5 or 6 times and it will finish up the cocking slot edges and crosshatch the inside of the tube. Wipe it out with some paper towel, then wrap a fresh piece around the dowel, put some moly on it and do the same thing as you did with the sand paper which will burnish the moly paste onto the inside of the tube and fill that crosshatching and help keep everything nicely lubed down the road.
You also never mentioned anything about the spring ends which tend to be a little rough and don the road may dig into your spring guide and tophat and start binding up the spring. I use one of those files and smooth off any burrs, then lay the 400 grit in a small pan of water and polish both ends by just rubbing the spring ends in a circular motion for a couple minutes,
You can also use that file and 400 grit to deburr and polish the end of the cocking arm and the barrel forks which will also make things move a lot smoother.
Now just install that new piston seal and use a light coat of moly paste just behind it. Make sure none gets in front or you may get some dieseling your first few shots and making sure to lube those newly polished spring ends, the spring (I lube the whole thing with moly paste) the spring guide and tophat, then reassemble using leadslinger's nice write up and pics.
Don't forget to lube the end of that cocking arm and the barrel forks when you reinstall the barrel and a little on the piston sleeve I saw in his pics won't hurt either. Also a good idea to use a dab of Loctite Blue 242 thread lock on any screws to help stop them from possibly vibrating out later and by using the Blue, they come out pretty easy down the road if you ever want to take the rifle apart again. Recommended moly paste is usually anything with a 60% or higher moly content. It's a little on the pricey side but Honda M77 (used to be Honda 60) available at any Honda dealer is a good one or you can find it on Ebay.
I surfed a lot looking for ideas and ways to make a piston sleeve. The best I've found so far was here if you're considering making one: http://thespringerlounge.myfastforum.org/about12.html
Hope this helps in some way for anyone new. There's lots of ways it can be done and I'm sure others will chime in, this is just how I tune mine.


Thanks but there are many threads and websites on to "how to tune", just no good tear downs. Without having to listen to umm, yeas and random talking. The main point of this post was just the tearing it down, and not to tune. Just saying now you can.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 12:35 pm
Posts: 4
I'm aware there are many sites with the tuning info, not my first rodeo and I've probably tuned more guns than you've ever owned, but like you said, very few also include the tear down info, especially pics of it. The whole idea of my reply was to add to the nice thread with pics you did and have it all in one single thread instead of having to look at 3 or even 4 different sites to get it all. Also probably a pretty good guess that if you'd found one, you never would have started this thread.
Finding a thread like that would have made my first tune so much easier more than a few years back if I could have found it all on one page and I'd like to think someone new to tuning and still not quite sure about everything would too and not have to bounce between a few sites putting it all together.


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