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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:34 pm 
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Location: Likely outdoors, SW Ontario
Howdy gang,

Searched for .22 cleaning pellets (for my Benji NP Legacy) and found RWS brand at D&L - but also Amazon.ca (can get free shipping since I need other stuff too so will go with Amazon)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001C6 ... EEQB&psc=1

I used to put a drop of pellgunoil on the felt pellet for my 2240 but it appears that is not necessary - or bad...

On the other hand, should I get a rod instead and if so - what kind?

I have some Crosman RMCOIL (Silicone oil) on order but I'm such a noob I need to find out where to properly place a drop in the compression chamber... :oops: :roll: :lol:

The RMCOIL is $8.99 at CTire - or $14.77 at Amazon.ca (Yikes!)
https://www.amazon.ca/Crosman-RMCOIL-Si ... J1QZ8TX156

Thanks for your guidance ~

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 5:23 pm 
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Don't use a rod, use a pull through line with cotton patches...
Details here in this old thread:
topic50458.html?hilit=%20pull%20through

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 7:44 pm 
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Definitely use a pull through...air gun rifling is far too fragile for metal rods.Not the same as a powder burner.Even then I'd do it with care....
The above post gives all the info you need...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 7:51 pm 
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MyCrosman wrote:
Definitely use a pull through...air gun rifling is far too fragile for metal rods.Not the same as a powder burner.Even then I'd do it with care....
The above post gives all the info you need...


Thanks folks ~ although I found the link and its 3 pages a bit dizzying and no clear consensus...

might just go with felt pellets for now...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 8:34 pm 
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Imo the cleaning pellets were made to make $, and while they can work (but not well imo) I consider then more of a novelty. If you do use them in a springer then be sure to use with a lead pellet or it's no different than a dry fire. Lead behind the felt so the solvent doesn't ignite. Ideally a lead in backwards, then the felt, then a lead normally so the felt will be squished between the heads and outwards against the bore to better scrub it. I'd use round nose pellets for that.

For regular cleaning I prefer to use an 1/8" wood dowel with 22LR cleaning patches or a little piece of a paper towel etc. I like a very tight plug of patch so I now it's really scrubbing well, so rather than just push it thru with the dowel, I pack it kinda balled up so I have to really force it thru. Obviously a loose patch, like a loose cleaning pellet, will do little to clean. If the bore needs more cleaning then I use a bronze bore brush with a regular cleaning rod, which I think any new chinese gun like yours needs because it helps smooth the rough bore. If you want something a little more aggressive you can use it with misc compounds that have abrasives etc. I've used course polishing compound and rubbing compound for car paint. It's kinda a pita because it's tiring, time consuming and a bit messy. This is usually after I've sanded the bore, but that's a whole nuther deal, but after sanding and scrubbing you end up with a bore that is better overall, plus much smoother so it needs less cleaning.
So solvent or whatever your poison to clean, then some kind of oil to protect the bore and hopefully keep lead from sticking. I usually use brake cleaner, then 0wt syn motor oil. If you use something thin like WD40 then I don't believe it'll help prevent lead build up, but no biggie since you can always clean it again.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 9:14 am 
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Thank-you everyone for the helpful info.

Too many questions but have started looking on Youtube. One source says the Benji-Shers might have a brass bore, not steel, and brass does not collect lead like steel.
Also sources say the stuff on our hands after handling pellets is from the outer film applied to pellets (likely graphite) and not lead. If the graphite was not applied then the lead would oxidize and turn white and the bore would need much more cleaning. Furthermore, if the power is less that 800-900fps, it is unlikely your bore needs cleaning - Unless - your accuracy drops.

Anyways, I am still breaking in my rifle and will continue to learn, process, filter, learn, and hopefully make fewer mistakes. :wink:

Thanks again ~

Chevota wrote:
Imo the cleaning pellets were made to make $, and while they can work (but not well imo) I consider then more of a novelty. If you do use them in a springer then be sure to use with a lead pellet or it's no different than a dry fire. Lead behind the felt so the solvent doesn't ignite. Ideally a lead in backwards, then the felt, then a lead normally so the felt will be squished between the heads and outwards against the bore to better scrub it. I'd use round nose pellets for that.

For regular cleaning I prefer to use an 1/8" wood dowel with 22LR cleaning patches or a little piece of a paper towel etc. I like a very tight plug of patch so I now it's really scrubbing well, so rather than just push it thru with the dowel, I pack it kinda balled up so I have to really force it thru. Obviously a loose patch, like a loose cleaning pellet, will do little to clean. If the bore needs more cleaning then I use a bronze bore brush with a regular cleaning rod, which I think any new chinese gun like yours needs because it helps smooth the rough bore. If you want something a little more aggressive you can use it with misc compounds that have abrasives etc. I've used course polishing compound and rubbing compound for car paint. It's kinda a pita because it's tiring, time consuming and a bit messy. This is usually after I've sanded the bore, but that's a whole nuther deal, but after sanding and scrubbing you end up with a bore that is better overall, plus much smoother so it needs less cleaning.
So solvent or whatever your poison to clean, then some kind of oil to protect the bore and hopefully keep lead from sticking. I usually use brake cleaner, then 0wt syn motor oil. If you use something thin like WD40 then I don't believe it'll help prevent lead build up, but no biggie since you can always clean it again.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 9:41 am 
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You've probably noticed by now that there are opposite opinions regarding just about ANYTHING to do with airguns.Even "experts" disagree with the proper way to do certain things....Myself...I'm no expert either and if I'm unsure of a product or a certain "way" of doing something with my guns..…I choose the least likely method of doing damage to it.....Jamming a metal rod down a barrel is fine if you want to risk screwing up the rifling or the crown....using a pull through method offers 0% chance of damage to the barrel.Google it and you'll find experts swearing by rod cleaning and experts swearing by the pull through method.......If unsure...error on the side of caution....

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 9:48 am 
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I use the 'Grass trimmer' line method. But all I do is melt the end of the line to form a small 'knob' then you can pull the patches through and they won't come off.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:51 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Dryden, Ontario
I have to agree with MyCrosman and Nod. The weed whacker line or fishing line is a great idea...Zero chance of harming the fairly delicate rifling and crown. :)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:15 pm 
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Posts: 1278
Location: United States
The line with a patch has no chance of harm but how well does it actually clean? I guess it all depends on the users definition of clean, and is the barrel nice enough that it's a concern?
I've seen bore snakes sold with a built in brush, which is kinda cool and no doubt available in .22, but not sure about .17. I had a hard enough time finding a rod in 17.
Never heard about any fps related leading issue except with firearms, but I suppose it's possible to some degree?
I don't believe graphite will prevent oxidation but the pellets usually have oil or wax on them for that. Some people get into the lube part and clean the pellets then relube with what they like. I just lube the bore.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 11:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 02, 2006 4:57 pm
Posts: 1754
Location: mb
Oh Goody! A bore cleaning thread! This is where community consensus goes to die! :lol:

The brass bore reference to BenSher guns refers to their "legacy" (lower case L) guns; Your "Legacy"(capital L) has a steel bore.

+1 for rod and brush. Usually, once only, very thoroughly, at time of purchase. Some barrels/guns are delivered with a positively filthy bore!

After that, a patch or three but only if "something's off" in the way the gun is shooting. Again, with a rod and patch carrier.

Otherwise, a double pass with an oil moistened patch, on a nylon cord noose, as part of the layup/storage ritual.

I believe you'd need to be either ridiculously fastidious(OCD), or particularly ham-fisted, to mess up a modern steel airgun bore with
reasonable application of a half-ways decent rod, or a bronze brush.

"Felts", are for shooting flies, close range, indoors. They're for making a small mess, not cleaning up. . . . :mrgreen:

And the debate continues. . . . :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 6:26 pm 
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Posts: 11
Location: Edmonton, Alberta.
I love the weed wacker line pull through method. Never thought to do that until i read this and it works great! Also like to melt the end to create a Knob. No more rods in my guns.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 10:10 am 
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Posts: 758
Location: Burlington ON
The heavy duty, thick stuff is useful for pushing as well as pulling. I keep some in a case with an airsoft pistol as sometimes the BBs can get lodged in the barrel; very handy and does not take up room like a rod as it can be coiled up and slipped behind the foam in the case. Don't know if pellets could get stuck e.g. if low power CO2 source is running low but might have a use there too if that could happen.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 3:09 pm 
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Location: Likely outdoors, SW Ontario
Do these items from Amazon seem ideal to get for cleaning my .22 bore?

Kit (comes with .177 so I can clean my friend's break-barrel too

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EUZ ... EEQB&psc=1

.22 Brush

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EZB ... EEQB&psc=1

Patches

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0000C ... EEQB&psc=1

Snake Rope seems like an option too

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MDK ... JJPE&psc=1

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6084
Location: P.G. B.C.
Plink-Panther wrote:
Thank-you everyone for the helpful info.

Too many questions but have started looking on Youtube. One source says the Benji-Shers might have a brass bore, not steel, and brass does not collect lead like steel.
Also sources say the stuff on our hands after handling pellets is from the outer film applied to pellets (likely graphite) and not lead. If the graphite was not applied then the lead would oxidize and turn white and the bore would need much more cleaning. Furthermore, if the power is less that 800-900fps, it is unlikely your bore needs cleaning - Unless - your accuracy drops.

Anyways, I am still breaking in my rifle and will continue to learn, process, filter, learn, and hopefully make fewer mistakes. :wink:

Thanks again ~


IF you EVER see oxidized lead- pellets or round balls with a white oxide coating, do not handle them - the lead oxide is quite poisonous. Dousing them in WD40 or a solvent to wash away the oxides might render them as normally- almost non-poinsous. LOL

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