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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
I found taking the Ruger Airhawk apart is easier than, the Crosman Phantom/Vantage/Optima ETC

First tools you will need.

Gloves, Eye Protection, #2 Philips, Large Flathead, Hook, Pliers, Punch, Hammer. I like using a magnetic tray.

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Than you take the #2 Phillips and remove the 2 screws on the side and forward most on the trigger guard.

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Then lift the action out of the stock. I normally remove the plastic cap on the end of the action that covers the safety.

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Then switching to a large flathead remove the barrel pivot bolt. ( you might need to use 2 flatheads to remove this bolt )

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You will notice on the other side a nut. I just use the bolt and thread it in to pull it out.

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You'll notice the barrel pivot collar.

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Just use the punch and push it out. I find it easier to break the action a bit.

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Everything just slides on out.

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Than I put it into the spring compress ( where the eye protection comes in hand) I place a piece of wood just under the safety.

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Put enough tension on it, that the 2 pins come out.

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Once the pins are out, remove the tension.

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No more tension.

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Remove the trigger mech, guide spring and piston liner.

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Then using my trusty hook I pull the piston out.

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DONE.

Now is the best time to deburr it and Moly it.

Installing is reverse order. When installing the piston make sure that the seal doesn't get caught on any edges. I use a rod to push the piston back in.

Install piston, line it up. Install piston sleeve, spring and spring guide. Place trigger mech back in. Place it back into the spring compressor. Start compressing the spring. You might need to play with the tension to get the pins back in ( too much or not enough for the holes to line up ). There is a plastic sleeve that you might need to take a punch and wiggle the plastic liner around so they line up.

Re install pins.

Install barrel, pivot bushing, place linkage back into the piston groove. Install nut, barrel bolt. Place safety cap back on. Re install stock, and screws.

Done.

I find it more simple than the Crosman.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 5:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:39 pm
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Location: Illinois
Great tutorial, thanks.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 8:44 am 
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Location: GTA
One thing to note. Never cock the gun while it is out of the gun. You will dent the inner piston sleeve and it will drag on the spring. It can be fixed, but best avoided.
Also as a side note, the gun can be disassembled without a compressor. It is a bit more dangerous, but if done with caution it is doable. I know the whole spring compressor thing prevents many people from working on their guns. I have taken many guns apart without one. Though I'm sure they would make the job much easier.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:09 am 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Woody wrote:
One thing to note. Never cock the gun while it is out of the gun. You will dent the inner piston sleeve and it will drag on the spring. It can be fixed, but best avoided.
Also as a side note, the gun can be disassembled without a compressor. It is a bit more dangerous, but if done with caution it is doable. I know the whole spring compressor thing prevents many people from working on their guns. I have taken many guns apart without one. Though I'm sure they would make the job much easier.


I just crack it open a bit to get the barrel bushing out. I installed this 1000 FPS spring in w/o a compressor and it was do able, but a pain. But having a spring compressor allowed me to control it better. Also causes less damage. Because not trying to have 3 hands trying to stick something in to lock it in.

You can use a bar clamp, door frame ( scissor jack and 3 pieces of wood, and someone stepping on it works ) alot of things for a improvised spring compressor. I just got tired working on the floor and over it.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 3:42 pm 
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Location: Calgary
Great, this page is now "bookmarked" for future reference when I replace the spring in the Airhawk. Maybe then I'll get some use out of it, as I think it's only tasted about 50 pellets since it arrived new. Kinda pointless to shoot a 10 pounder at a puny 450 or so fps.

I concur with the whole spring compressor being a deterrent. Have taken several guns apart but so far not a single springer. And now you know why. Have little desire to build one so will be trying the jack on a door frame idea.

Thanks for another detailed tutorial.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 4:36 pm 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Joolz wrote:
Great, this page is now "bookmarked" for future reference when I replace the spring in the Airhawk. Maybe then I'll get some use out of it, as I think it's only tasted about 50 pellets since it arrived new. Kinda pointless to shoot a 10 pounder at a puny 450 or so fps.

I concur with the whole spring compressor being a deterrent. Have taken several guns apart but so far not a single springer. And now you know why. Have little desire to build one so will be trying the jack on a door frame idea.

Thanks for another detailed tutorial.


Yeah 2 pieces of wood on each end of the frame, and a piece of wood in between the jack and receiver. Can use a bottle jack, if you don't got a scissor. Small bottle jack would probably be easier to control.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2016 7:33 pm
Posts: 240
Location: Yukon
leadslinger wrote:
Woody wrote:
One thing to note. Never cock the gun while it is out of the gun. You will dent the inner piston sleeve and it will drag on the spring. It can be fixed, but best avoided.
Also as a side note, the gun can be disassembled without a compressor. It is a bit more dangerous, but if done with caution it is doable. I know the whole spring compressor thing prevents many people from working on their guns. I have taken many guns apart without one. Though I'm sure they would make the job much easier.


I just crack it open a bit to get the barrel bushing out. I installed this 1000 FPS spring in w/o a compressor and it was do able, but a pain. But having a spring compressor allowed me to control it better. Also causes less damage. Because not trying to have 3 hands trying to stick something in to lock it in.

You can use a bar clamp, door frame ( scissor jack and 3 pieces of wood, and someone stepping on it works ) alot of things for a improvised spring compressor. I just got tired working on the floor and over it.


Thanks for the great write up
I just installed the 1000 spring without a compressor. It was easy peezy as the spring is only 1.5 inches longer than the 500 and needed far less effort than doing the same to a Crossman design. Even with the new spring the cocking is effortless? Perhaps due to the longer barrel than my Phantom?

Your spring guide looks like metal, mine is white plastic.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:23 am
Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
tango wrote:
leadslinger wrote:
Woody wrote:
One thing to note. Never cock the gun while it is out of the gun. You will dent the inner piston sleeve and it will drag on the spring. It can be fixed, but best avoided.
Also as a side note, the gun can be disassembled without a compressor. It is a bit more dangerous, but if done with caution it is doable. I know the whole spring compressor thing prevents many people from working on their guns. I have taken many guns apart without one. Though I'm sure they would make the job much easier.


I just crack it open a bit to get the barrel bushing out. I installed this 1000 FPS spring in w/o a compressor and it was do able, but a pain. But having a spring compressor allowed me to control it better. Also causes less damage. Because not trying to have 3 hands trying to stick something in to lock it in.

You can use a bar clamp, door frame ( scissor jack and 3 pieces of wood, and someone stepping on it works ) alot of things for a improvised spring compressor. I just got tired working on the floor and over it.


Thanks for the great write up
I just installed the 1000 spring without a compressor. It was easy peezy as the spring is only 1.5 inches longer than the 500 and needed far less effort than doing the same to a Crossman design. Even with the new spring the cocking is effortless? Perhaps due to the longer barrel than my Phantom?

Your spring guide looks like metal, mine is white plastic.


I did find it cocked smoother than a Phantom with a full power spring. My guide rod is plastic its just been moly paste so its grey.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:22 pm
Posts: 286
Location: Hill Spring, Alberta
This is a great tutorial.

Just a brief note on re-assembly for people like me who removed the safety from the trigger (curiosity/accident/just no common sense :shock: ) and discovered that it doesn't want to go back in, there is a way.

I removed the safety the first time I disassembled my Surge (it has the same action) about 2 years ago, and I ended up coming here for help on how to get it back in. I don't remember who helped, but I've done it a few times now.

Looking into the back of the trigger housing one will see a vertical piece of metal. The safety has to straddle this piece to be re-inserted so the piece of metal has to be centered all the way in. Just getting the safety started in and pushing won't center the piece of metal.

The piece of metal is held in position by a spring pushing it forward. (If you remove the plastic sleeve containing the trigger group you'll see how it works, but if you remove the sleeve be careful. The nut into which the rear "stock" screw fits is held in place (it isn't spring loaded, but will fall out from gravity) by the sleeve. If you're careful, the rest of the group "should" stay in place.

WITH THE PLASTIC SLEEVE IN PLACE, grab the vertical piece of metal in needle nose pliers and pull it toward the rear of the trigger/rifle. Center it then ease it forward. It may take a few tries, but it will eventually stay centered, and you can slide the safety back in.

(These are great triggers to start with and when polished and modified are really smooth with a crisp second stage break.)

Peter :D


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 4:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:24 am
Posts: 1545
Location: Calgary
An idea to improve on an already great tutorial (or perhaps start a new one?) would be to add a how-to on adjusting the trigger. I understand that the trigger in the AirHawk closely copies the T06 on the Diana, sounds like a great thing to play with. However I have no idea how to make such adjustments and/or what results to expect. Apparently it comes from the factory set to 2lbs pull. Been over a year since I last shot mine, don't recall what it felt like but it's something I'd like to experiment with once I finally bring out of the safe. But before I start turning the screw blindly, would be great to have an experienced member describe the process.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:22 pm
Posts: 286
Location: Hill Spring, Alberta
Image

Before I begin I must say that everything I've learned about air guns, triggers etc., has been learned here. The trigger modification that I've used was "invented" by someone else but I can't find the post again. Two years ago, I knew none of this, but this site is a great teacher. I've put pictures in to make the explanation easier to understand (I hope). If I've made errors in my description, I hope someone will step in and correct them.

After doing any work on the gun or trigger, BE CAREFUL. Perform the "bump test" to be sure you won't have an unintended firing incident and don't cock or load the gun until you're ready to fire it.

This is a picture of the disassembled trigger group with the piston above. Missing from the picture is the sleeve that keeps the action attachment nut in and the safety mechanism from going sproing.
The two silver "rectangular" pieces above the frame with the holes in them are what actually hold the piston center shaft when the gun is cocked. The end of the piston shaft forces the "rectangular" piece on the right in the picture down out of the way when the gun is cocked. A spring under the first piece beneath the frame (2nd sear) in the picture forces the rectangular piece back up into the narrow portion of the shaft, and when the cocking arm is released, the end of the shaft tries to force it down again. The 2nd sear is prevented from going down again by the next piece below (1st sear) which is also spring loaded, and has latched onto it. The bottom piece is of course the trigger, and all three pieces are held in place by pins. The topmost pin is larger diameter than the other two.

Above the group are the parts of the safety mechanism including the weird piece of metal which is spring loaded forwarded and is the hardest part to get straight during reassembly.

Image

This is a picture of the trigger as it now is with the "two screw" modification.
The screw on the trigger as delivered is a small phillips head which "controls" the second stage. The spring on the back of the trigger and a pin through the trigger (the left over hole barely visible between the hole for the pivot pin, and the white disc.) comprise the first stage which isn't adjustable.
In this particular trigger, the pin has been cut (with a Dremel) out and a second screw drilled and tapped to perform its function so that the first stage is adjustable. The Phillips head screw has been replaced with another screw. Both of the screws/bolts are M3x0.5, but one could as easily use a 1/8" bolt. They fit into the Dremel chuck and make it easy to get a nice smooth rounded end. The outer end has a slot also cut by a Dremel so they can be adjusted. The piece on the back of the trigger is what hits the plastic safety.

To adjust an un-modified trigger, it is just a matter of turning the Phillips head screw in or out. (If nothing else, remove this screw, and smooth the end.) As one pulls the trigger the trigger spring resists a bit and first stage pin begins to move the first sear. At some point during the first stage, the end of that screw will contact the first sear, and complete releasing it from its latched position on the second sear. The farther in it is screwed, the sooner it interrupts the first stage, and the longer/harder the second stage pull. If it is backed out enough, it won't contact the first sear before the first stage has already unlatched it, and you have a single stage trigger. Its a matter of adjusting it to your liking.

With the modified two screw trigger one can dispense with the trigger spring (the trigger will flop around when the gun isn't cocked, but I don't care) and adjust the farthest forward screw in until it is touching the first sear when the rifle is cocked. The second screw is adjusted like the original Phillips head, but one now has the option of making both stages longer or shorter. Both screws in deep and you get a very short first stage and very touchy second stage. Back them out and you can have a longer first stage, and then adjust the rear screw to release the sear whenever you want it to.

All of the surfaces that rub on another part can be polished and that makes a difference too. If you polish, be careful not to change nice sharp edges which help with a clean release.

Disassembly and reassembly aren't hard, but be careful about releasing springs. To help I have a "jewelers screwdriver" with about a 1/8" blade and a notch cut in the middle with which I can poke and push etc.

Thanks leadslinger for this post. I hope you don't mind my addition.

Peter :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 7:30 pm 
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Nope don't mind, maybe they should sticky it :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:19 pm 
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Location: Calgary
U requests, they delivers.
Thanks Peter for that detailed explanation that even a newb like me can follow. Also for the bonus trigger mod. Not something I'd attempt immediately as the trigger in the AirHawk is already miles ahead of the other springers I have. But will definitely experiment with the adjustments and see what works for me. It's like you said in another post, lacking an actual coach, you better coach yourself (think they call it practice, practice, practice).

And I concur, there ought to be a place for users to find great info such as this instead of having to resort to the crude search here. One year from now one will have to go through pages of hits before landing on this page. Maybe the mods ought to consider adding a DIY section?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 8:44 am 
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Posts: 2782
Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Joolz wrote:
U requests, they delivers.
Thanks Peter for that detailed explanation that even a newb like me can follow. Also for the bonus trigger mod. Not something I'd attempt immediately as the trigger in the AirHawk is already miles ahead of the other springers I have. But will definitely experiment with the adjustments and see what works for me. It's like you said in another post, lacking an actual coach, you better coach yourself (think they call it practice, practice, practice).

And I concur, there ought to be a place for users to find great info such as this instead of having to resort to the crude search here. One year from now one will have to go through pages of hits before landing on this page. Maybe the mods ought to consider adding a DIY section?


I just dislike youtube disassembly videos when they have to add music and listen to them say umm and ummm. Don't make it harder than it is.


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