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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:15 pm 
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Posts: 26
Location: Quebekistan
Hi,

I recently bought a PAL-rated Crossman Nitro Venom from a friend for 100$.
Its in VG condition and it is supposed to have less than 500 pellets down the tube.

The goal of this thread is to mod this rifle and to fix some issues from the factory.

I will need your help to find parts and I will also need advices.

I would like to update this Original Post but that will not be possible, due to the fact that we can't EDIT the posts on this site.

Today, I decided to clean the rifle and I did a quick dissassembly.

I did not liked what I saw. I'm not surprised since its a Chinese airgun.

- The barrel droop alot
- Burrs everywhere
- The barrel and breech block is not centered
- The breech sela looks bad
- The crown looks weird
- I'm sure I will find more...

And I still have to discover more issues...

At this point, I should remove the nitro piston, deburr the entire tube and reinstall a brand new seal.

Image

Image

I know how to re-center the barrel and breech block.
I will make some brass washers/spacers to replace the plastic factory units.
The machining is so rough that I will have to take a clean in the bottom of the counter-bore on the milling machine to be able to take good measurements for the spacers.

Image

Image

Its hard to see but I have serious doubts about this crown job.
Is the plastic shroud glued to the barrel ?

Image

The breech block seal looks bad to me ! What you think ?

Image


Last edited by ben777lemay on Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:32 pm 
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Location: Quebekistan
Anyone have a link to a thread or a video to remove/dissassemble the nitro piston out of the *chamber* ?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:52 pm 
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Location: Eastern Townships, P.Q.
Though I'd strongly recommend a spring compressor for this job, here's a good tutorial on how to do it:

topic73899.html

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:05 pm 
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airmec wrote:
Though I'd strongly recommend a spring compressor for this job, here's a good tutorial on how to do it:

topic73899.html


Exactly what I needed !

I think I will need a spring compressor because mine looks pretty stiff.
Any recommendation for a good spring compressor ?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:18 pm 
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Location: Thunder Bay,On.
The shroud comes off by heating it well with a hair dryer......Round and round for 3 minutes or so and it will pull right off.Same for putting it back on.Barrel droop on my Venom too but the cure was simple.I just removed the shim behind the seal...it closed properly and I checked the fps....still the same.....resighted the scope and that was it.Also cleaned and deburred everywhere, added shims behind the block washers....and I can hit pellet tins at 60 yards...not EVERY time but most of the time...good enough.

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Last edited by MyCrosman on Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:19 pm 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
ben777lemay wrote:
airmec wrote:
Though I'd strongly recommend a spring compressor for this job, here's a good tutorial on how to do it:

topic73899.html


Exactly what I needed !

I think I will need a spring compressor because mine looks pretty stiff.
Any recommendation for a good spring compressor ?


Make one. I just used 2x6's and L brackets. so I could work on the bench. But in a jam you can use a scissor jack, 3 blocks of wood and a door jam. Have someone step on it lightly to prevent it from kicking out.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:55 pm 
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MyCrosman wrote:
The shroud comes off by heating it well with a hair dryer......Round and round for 3 minutes or so and it will pull right off.Same for putting it back on.Barrel droop on my Venom too but the cure was simple.I just removed the shim behind the seal...it closed properly and I checked the fps....still the same.....resighted the scope and that was it.Also cleaned and deburred everywhere, added shims behind the block washers....and I can hit pellet tins at 60 yards...not EVERY time but most of the time...good enough.


Interesting, thx !

I might order a new breech seal tho...

leadslinger wrote:
Make one. I just used 2x6's and L brackets. so I could work on the bench. But in a jam you can use a scissor jack, 3 blocks of wood and a door jam. Have someone step on it lightly to prevent it from kicking out.


:shock:


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:07 pm 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
ben777lemay wrote:
MyCrosman wrote:
The shroud comes off by heating it well with a hair dryer......Round and round for 3 minutes or so and it will pull right off.Same for putting it back on.Barrel droop on my Venom too but the cure was simple.I just removed the shim behind the seal...it closed properly and I checked the fps....still the same.....resighted the scope and that was it.Also cleaned and deburred everywhere, added shims behind the block washers....and I can hit pellet tins at 60 yards...not EVERY time but most of the time...good enough.


Interesting, thx !

I might order a new breech seal tho...

leadslinger wrote:
Make one. I just used 2x6's and L brackets. so I could work on the bench. But in a jam you can use a scissor jack, 3 blocks of wood and a door jam. Have someone step on it lightly to prevent it from kicking out.


:shock:


And it will kick out only if the jack and block on a angle. If its straight and you only back it off easy, it won't. It only has 1 to 1.5" " of preload so it will only spring out soo much. I tried bar clamps and that felt more un safe than the door jack and scissor jack.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:17 pm 
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Location: Quebekistan
leadslinger wrote:
And it will kick out only if the jack and block on a angle. If its straight and you only back it off easy, it won't. It only has 1 to 1.5" " of preload so it will only spring out soo much. I tried bar clamps and that felt more un safe than the door jack and scissor jack.


I don't have a car jack like this one but I will figure something...

I would also like to know where is the best place to order spare parts for my Crosman ?

I would like to install a brand new piston seal and breech seal.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:31 pm 
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Location: Thunder Bay,On.
Crosman parts...http://store.onlinecamp.com/en/replacem ... osman.html

I always receive my orders in 5 or 6 days.Good service.

I use a big clamp I bought at Home Depot...it was only $20.00. Works great

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:59 pm 
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MyCrosman wrote:
Crosman parts...http://store.onlinecamp.com/en/replacem ... osman.html

I always receive my orders in 5 or 6 days.Good service.

I use a big clamp I bought at Home Depot...it was only $20.00. Works great


Seals ordered !

What should I use as lube for the piston seal ?

I saw on the net alot of people using Moly paste but its only good for metal to metal contact.
From what I understand it doesn't help to lube the piston seal...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:16 pm 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
ben777lemay wrote:
leadslinger wrote:
And it will kick out only if the jack and block on a angle. If its straight and you only back it off easy, it won't. It only has 1 to 1.5" " of preload so it will only spring out soo much. I tried bar clamps and that felt more un safe than the door jack and scissor jack.


I don't have a car jack like this one but I will figure something...


CT has them on sale for 17$ sometimes. When not in use as a spring compressor. You can turn it into a shooting rest. Rivet a piece of 4" wide 1/8" steel or alum to attach a sock or shooting bag.

I use moly paste on my seals.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:25 pm 
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Moly is the standard actually but some people create their own special batch of "nutrients"...lol..for the piston seal.I've always used Honda Moly 60 with excellent results on the seal and on the piston. Whether someone's special mixture is better or not is anyone's guess.The moly works great so I use it and have.been using it for years....

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:28 pm 
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Avoid the moly grease you get at CT.

Ive been working on a small tub of AV moly paste. 3/4 full and tuned and lubed a fair number of guns with it.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 9:32 am 
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MyCrosman wrote:
Moly is the standard actually but some people create their own special batch of "nutrients"...lol..for the piston seal.I've always used Honda Moly 60 with excellent results on the seal and on the piston. Whether someone's special mixture is better or not is anyone's guess.The moly works great so I use it and have.been using it for years....


leadslinger wrote:
Avoid the moly grease you get at CT.

Ive been working on a small tub of AV moly paste. 3/4 full and tuned and lubed a fair number of guns with it.


From what I saw on the net, the Honda Moly 60 has been discontinued and replaced by Honda Moly 77.

What is the best place to get some, Honda cars or ATV dealers ?


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