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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 9:34 am 
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8)
ben777lemay wrote:
MyCrosman wrote:
Moly is the standard actually but some people create their own special batch of "nutrients"...lol..for the piston seal.I've always used Honda Moly 60 with excellent results on the seal and on the piston. Whether someone's special mixture is better or not is anyone's guess.The moly works great so I use it and have.been using it for years....


leadslinger wrote:
Avoid the moly grease you get at CT.

Ive been working on a small tub of AV moly paste. 3/4 full and tuned and lubed a fair number of guns with it.


From what I saw on the net, the Honda Moly 60 has been discontinued and replaced by Honda Moly 77.

What is the best place to get some, Honda cars or ATV dealers ?


Honda ATV dealer.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 10:19 am 
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Location: Calgary
leadslinger wrote:
And it will kick out only if the jack and block on a angle. If its straight and you only back it off easy, it won't. It only has 1 to 1.5" " of preload so it will only spring out soo much. I tried bar clamps and that felt more un safe than the door jack and scissor jack.

Image


I have this exact same blue jack. Great that you posted a pic of it in use, now I know how it goes on the door jam.

ben777lemay wrote:
From what I saw on the net, the Honda Moly 60 has been discontinued and replaced by Honda Moly 77.

What is the best place to get some, Honda cars or ATV dealers ?

Neither: topic72607-15.html

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 11:14 am 
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Check out your Honda Dealer and ASK for the Moly 60 ....not the 77.My Dealer here a few months ago said they still have bucketloads of Moly 60 in stock to sell off.Maybe the Dealer in your town has some too.I'll check again with Honda later today.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 12:27 pm 
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None in the Calgary motorcycle dealership. They insisted they have switched to this new formulation as it works fine for their needs. Guess having possible animal fat in the new recipe to not be an issue for them, but sure not something I'd want to experiment with in a compression chamber of a springer.

You may have to buy their leftover stock of the 60 and offer them for sale here at the forum. Sure they'll go fast. If a member here hadn't been kind enough to send me a bit of his (real) moly, I'd bug you to ship me one of these.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 8:12 pm 
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Monday morning I will go at my local Honda ATV dealer to see if they still have some Moly 60 grease.

So the Moly 77 is a no-go ?!?!

Today I ordered the GTXII trigger and bought some parts to make my spring compression fixture.

I also gathered some hex cap screws to replace the cheap chinese phillips screws.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 10:01 pm 
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Actually its Moly Paste.....Moly 77 may work....just never heard of anyone ever using it in an air gun...its definitely a different composition from that of moly 60....Who knows...there may be no difference.The Honda people certainly won't be able to help you there..in regards to use in an air rifle...I DO know its temperature rating is 450 degrees for Moly 77 and 750 degrees for Moly 60..with the new 77 having a partial base carrier of lanolin.It may be like using butter for a seal lubricant...or it may be great for airguns......SOMEONE has to test it I guess..
http://www.prolan.co.nz

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:13 pm 
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A full strength nitro needs ~180lbs to compress, so if you weigh that much then by hand is possible. Even if I had a compressor I wouldn't use it since I'd have it done by hand long before I had the compressor setup, but up to you. Then there's all the time spent making said comp.
The nitro is usually only preloaded a few mm, sometimes only ~2. I think ~10mm is probably the max possible. The biggest pain imo is getting the pin back in, either bay hand or compressor, so I smooth and lube the parts. The inner piece the pin holds often catches if not perfectly lined up, but once sanded and lubed it's way easier. I also slightly round the edge of the pin.

I'm one of those guys that prefers a custom blend of lube. I use tungsten disulfide which you can get from bulletcoatings.com for ~$10US/oz? Not sure total cost to CA... That's 1oz of light dry powder so it makes a lot of lube. I use it mainly because I impregnate the metal (or whatever) with the pure dry powder before applying anything else, but then I mix it with whatever wet lube(s) to make what I want. Like for the main seal/piston I like thin non-sticky grease for max piston speed. Moly paste is rather thick so fine for the barrel pivot and such, but, lets say it's a personal choice where to use it..... Linkage pins are just about impossible to get paste in so I mix with the tungsten with thin syn motor oil so it can seep in. But whatever works for you, just fyi.

Lanolin, mmmm, glandular secretions from sheep, aka sheep scapins..... Keeps your hands soft while tuning.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:17 pm 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
Chevota wrote:
A full strength nitro needs ~180lbs to compress, so if you weigh that much then by hand is possible. Even if I had a compressor I wouldn't use it since I'd have it done by hand long before I had the compressor setup, but up to you. Then there's all the time spent making said comp.
The nitro is usually only preloaded a few mm, sometimes only ~2. I think ~10mm is probably the max possible. The biggest pain imo is getting the pin back in, either bay hand or compressor, so I smooth and lube the parts. The inner piece the pin holds often catches if not perfectly lined up, but once sanded and lubed it's way easier. I also slightly round the edge of the pin.

I'm one of those guys that prefers a custom blend of lube. I use tungsten disulfide which you can get from bulletcoatings.com for ~$10US/oz? Not sure total cost to CA... That's 1oz of light dry powder so it makes a lot of lube. I use it mainly because I impregnate the metal (or whatever) with the pure dry powder before applying anything else, but then I mix it with whatever wet lube(s) to make what I want. Like for the main seal/piston I like thin non-sticky grease for max piston speed. Moly paste is rather thick so fine for the barrel pivot and such, but, lets say it's a personal choice where to use it..... Linkage pins are just about impossible to get paste in so I mix with the tungsten with thin syn motor oil so it can seep in. But whatever works for you, just fyi.

Lanolin, mmmm, glandular secretions from sheep, aka sheep scapins..... Keeps your hands soft while tuning.


Slides out with barely no effort so getting it back in isn't a issue. Just matter of finding which way slides in easier.

I'm 230lbs, and pushing I barely could compress the NP, a spring another story. Even if I did I need a 3rd arm to get the pin in.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:57 pm 
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I've been using this clamp from home depot for years...It works great......one end under the barrel breech block and the round bit for compressing.....I can take my guns down in about 5 minutes.....

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 1:48 pm 
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So I went to my local Honda ATV dealer this morning and...

I bought the very last tube of Moly 60 they had.
It must be *old* by the look of the packaging !

Cost me 15$ + taxes so roughly 17$.

Image

I also had spare time at the job this weekend so I did a Spring/Nitro piston compressor from leftover parts and some angle bought from CT.

Image

Image

Image

Like I said in a previous post, I swapped all the cheap Chinese screws for machine hex screws.
I even did one to replace the trigger guard wood screw. I did a threaded brass insert to go along the screw.

Image

Factory hole for wood screw...

Image

Hole drilled for the threaded brass insert...

Image

I glued the brass insert with Devcon. Its currently drying as we speak...

Image

Today, I also received parts I ordered from Online camp...

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 2:34 pm 
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Location: Thunder Bay,On.
ben777lemay wrote:
So I went to my local Honda ATV dealer this morning and...

I bought the very last tube of Moly 60 they had.
It must be *old* by the look of the packaging !

Cost me 15$ + taxes so roughly 17$.

Image

I also had spare time at the job this weekend so I did a Spring/Nitro piston compressor from leftover parts and some angle bought from CT.

Image

Image

Image

Like I said in a previous post, I swapped all the cheap Chinese screws for machine hex screws.
I even did one to replace the trigger guard wood screw. I did a threaded brass insert to go along the screw.

Image

Factory hole for wood screw...

Image

Hole drilled for the threaded brass insert...

Image

I glued the brass insert with Devcon. Its currently drying as we speak...

Image

Today, I also received parts I ordered from Online camp...

Image



Excellent.....like I mentioned....there's still some of the moly 60 about at dealers.....just have to ask for it or you'll get the 77 instead....Good idea replacing the Phillips.I replaced the forearm screws on my N.Venom .22 wiith hexheads and blue loctite a month ago....solid as a rock....

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 2:58 pm 
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Posts: 257
Location: Dryden, Ontario
After seeing your post I'm changing out the Phillips too on my venom.Tired of them stripping and coming loose.
Thanks M/C. 8) Took your advice and located 2 tubes of Moly 60 while I still could.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 3:08 pm 
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Location: Thunder Bay
MyCrosman wrote:
Check out your Honda Dealer and ASK for the Moly 60 ....not the 77.My Dealer here a few months ago said they still have bucketloads of Moly 60 in stock to sell off.Maybe the Dealer in your town has some too.I'll check again with Honda later today.


Which Honda dealer? I tried J&J and Gore motors. Both of them looked at me like I was an alien.

I guess they're sold out.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 4:20 pm 
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ricksplace wrote:
MyCrosman wrote:
Check out your Honda Dealer and ASK for the Moly 60 ....not the 77.My Dealer here a few months ago said they still have bucketloads of Moly 60 in stock to sell off.Maybe the Dealer in your town has some too.I'll check again with Honda later today.


Which Honda dealer? I tried J&J and Gore motors. Both of them looked at me like I was an alien.

I guess they're sold out.


Well I haven't been there for a few months but he said its still available.I guess you saved me a trip to Gore,etc.Some people on here are managing to find it but that figures ....typical Thunder Bay....out in the middle of nowhere....and the last in line for just about anything I've been looking for lately....I've only got a pellet tin full of moly 60 left but my guns are all done and good for a while.Maybe I'll experiment with M77 next time :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 7:38 pm 
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Location: Mississauga, ON
You might try Honda motorcycle dealers. They use the stuff on the rear wheel splines of shaft drive motorcycles. The part number of the real Honda Moly 60 is 08734-0001 (unless they reassigned that part number to the new stuff?).

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