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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 10:02 pm 
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Location: Quebekistan
I went to my Honda ATV delaer with the P/N written on a paper.
I gave the paper to the lady behind the counter.

I guess the giong there with P/N helps alot !


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 2:19 pm 
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Well, this rifle is typical Chinese cheap stuff lolll.

I was about to machine the pockets for the brass *shims* and I discover that the barrel was bent.

I was able to staighten the barrel to .002-.003 inch.

I also machined the hole to 9mm ( from 8.5mm ) so i needed to make another *bushing*.

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Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:06 pm 
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So its been a while...

But I have pretty much everything to complete my rebuild/mods.

The only thing missing is a pair of scope rings.
I think I will order a set of Burris Signature Zee rings.
With those, I will able to correct the alignment if its not right.
I already have a couple of different inserts.

I bought a crowning tool and made a handle.

I should have the time to recrown the barrel and reassemble N-Venom this weekend.

The only thing I absolutely need to know is how much Moly paste I should use for the piston ?
Do you put paste on the piston and in the cylinder ?


More updates and pics to come this weekend.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 9:46 am 
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ben777lemay wrote:
The only thing I absolutely need to know is how much Moly paste I should use for the piston ?
Do you put paste on the piston and in the cylinder ?



So... I guess I will use common sense !


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 11:21 am 
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Location: Eastern Townships
Here's the way I do it: I'll apply a ''transparent'' coating of moly paste on the sides of the seal, being careful not to put it on the front of the seal. I use a small paint brush to apply the paste. You can see the difference between coated and non-coated in the picture. I also coat the inside of the piston, the cocking slot, and the last 3'' of outer piston skirt with the same transparent film of moly paste. A little goes a long way! Prior to this I de-burred and polished the piston slot and ID.

Before installing the piston in the tube, I will put 2-3 drops of silicone oil evenly spread on the ID, just after the cocking slot in the comp. chamber (in blue). After fitting the piston in the tube, I will coat the interior side opposite to the trigger with moly, again with a thin film (green arrow).

Hope it helps :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 2:37 pm 
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airmec wrote:
Here's the way I do it: I'll apply a ''transparent'' coating of moly paste on the sides of the seal, being careful not to put it on the front of the seal. I use a small paint brush to apply the paste. You can see the difference between coated and non-coated in the picture. I also coat the inside of the piston, the cocking slot, and the last 3'' of outer piston skirt with the same transparent film of moly paste. A little goes a long way! Prior to this I de-burred and polished the piston slot and ID.

Before installing the piston in the tube, I will put 2-3 drops of silicone oil evenly spread on the ID, just after the cocking slot in the comp. chamber (in blue). After fitting the piston in the tube, I will coat the interior side opposite to the trigger with moly, again with a thin film (green arrow).

Hope it helps :)


Awesome !

But why I should be careful to not put moly paste on the front of the seal ?
With use it will wipe some paste and there will be moly paste on the front anyway... no ?

BTW everything is already de-burred :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 10:27 am 
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Location: Eastern Townships
ben777lemay wrote:
airmec wrote:
Here's the way I do it: I'll apply a ''transparent'' coating of moly paste on the sides of the seal, being careful not to put it on the front of the seal. I use a small paint brush to apply the paste. You can see the difference between coated and non-coated in the picture. I also coat the inside of the piston, the cocking slot, and the last 3'' of outer piston skirt with the same transparent film of moly paste. A little goes a long way! Prior to this I de-burred and polished the piston slot and ID.

Before installing the piston in the tube, I will put 2-3 drops of silicone oil evenly spread on the ID, just after the cocking slot in the comp. chamber (in blue). After fitting the piston in the tube, I will coat the interior side opposite to the trigger with moly, again with a thin film (green arrow).

Hope it helps :)


Awesome !

But why I should be careful to not put moly paste on the front of the seal ?
With use it will wipe some paste and there will be moly paste on the front anyway... no ?

BTW everything is already de-burred :wink:


Because there's some petroleum-based oil in moly paste. That could cause dieseling/detonation in your rifle. Silicone oil will not cause detonation or dieseling :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:38 pm 
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airmec wrote:
Because there's some petroleum-based oil in moly paste. That could cause dieseling/detonation in your rifle. Silicone oil will not cause detonation or dieseling :wink:


First time I heard about this...

Now that makes me nervous and I'm not sure I still want to use that moly paste. :shock:

When I dissassembled the rifle, I'm pretty sure the factory used the same lubricant on all the internal parts.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:47 pm 
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The moly is used to prevent galling of metal-on-metal parts that are in contact with each other. Apply it to the full length of the piston and use very little. Rub it on like you are waxing a car. Don't rub it all off, just leave a light coating. Warming the metal with a hair dryer helps. Then apply a little thicker band directly behind the seal all the way around. The band will keep it lubricated for years. I read a thread a while ago on this. I'll see if I can find it.

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Don't take life too serious... It's not like you're gonna make it out alive.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 10:11 pm 
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If you button the piston your piston lube needs will drop substantially. Imo the piston in that gun doesn't need moly but it doesn't hurt. I would use it on the cocking slot, barrel catch, pivot bolt and side washers.
I don't know exactly how you prepped your gun for side washers or how they're fitted, so you might check for wear after a bit. To make them both a perfect fit and wear resistant it's a bit of work, but moly paste will help to a point.
As far as using grease in front of the seal it's just dieseling as mentioned, which I consider a non-issue, just annoying, but many consider it a disaster. I personally feel the negatives are thanks to the person selling the silicone, just like how Crosman started putting down coil springs once they started selling nitro guns.
So, if you want less dieseling then think about any grease or oil that is in the tube that the seal will scrape up. Otherwise you can grease after the piston is installed since after all the aft end is what needs it, hence the need for buttons. I haven't used much moly paste in my life but I do remember burning less violently but takes longer to burn off. So basically, imo, just shoot it until it's not annoying anymore. I use a more volatile lube and usually get 1-2 dieseling shots (audible) then a little smoke that tapers to unnoticeable in ~20 shots.
I'd consider lubing the nitro shaft too, several people have had issues and all I can think of is the seal in the nitro was somehow dry. They're supposed to come with a little grease on the seal but who knows what happens in those factories, so fyi. Probably not much to worry about but it doesn't hurt to lube it. It's a rubber seal but they also have some metal to metal scraping in there so I use grease and/or motor oil. Never tied moly paste but why not...


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:46 pm 
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Chevota wrote:
If you button the piston your piston lube needs will drop substantially. Imo the piston in that gun doesn't need moly but it doesn't hurt. I would use it on the cocking slot, barrel catch, pivot bolt and side washers.
I don't know exactly how you prepped your gun for side washers or how they're fitted, so you might check for wear after a bit. To make them both a perfect fit and wear resistant it's a bit of work, but moly paste will help to a point.

I made brass side washers. I measured the slot with gauge blocks and I fitted the washers with a 0-1inch micrometer.
The fit is perfect. It feels 10 times better than when I had it. No play at all and buttery smooth.
While brass is a relatively soft material, it will hold much longer than the factory plastic side washers.
If they wear out in a couple years, I will make another set.


As far as using grease in front of the seal it's just dieseling as mentioned, which I consider a non-issue, just annoying, but many consider it a disaster. I personally feel the negatives are thanks to the person selling the silicone, just like how Crosman started putting down coil springs once they started selling nitro guns.
So, if you want less dieseling then think about any grease or oil that is in the tube that the seal will scrape up. Otherwise you can grease after the piston is installed since after all the aft end is what needs it, hence the need for buttons. I haven't used much moly paste in my life but I do remember burning less violently but takes longer to burn off. So basically, imo, just shoot it until it's not annoying anymore. I use a more volatile lube and usually get 1-2 dieseling shots (audible) then a little smoke that tapers to unnoticeable in ~20 shots.
I'd consider lubing the nitro shaft too, several people have had issues and all I can think of is the seal in the nitro was somehow dry. They're supposed to come with a little grease on the seal but who knows what happens in those factories, so fyi. Probably not much to worry about but it doesn't hurt to lube it. It's a rubber seal but they also have some metal to metal scraping in there so I use grease and/or motor oil. Never tied moly paste but why not...


Thanks for the replys guys. I'm about half way there ( reassembly ). Should be completed by the end of the week.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:43 pm 
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I just finished to reassemble the rifle.

Holy moly, that thing shoots !
I just test fired it with one pellet in my backyard ( there is an open field ).
Its noisy ! Most of my .22's rimfire rifles are less loud than this air rifle.

I will have to take it to the field.

Its now like a swiss wtch compared to what it was when I got it.
Everything is smooooth.

The trigger is a nice upgrate. I will fine tune it in the field.

But I still need scope rings to mount the scope...


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