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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2016 3:56 pm
Posts: 9
Hi. So I was wondering about some Crosman Phantom .22 modding ideas. I've thought about tuning it up a bit but not sure on what to start. I've heard that using the 1000 FPS piston in the 500 rifle can increase it or a 1000 Spring can increase the 500. Are those true? Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 7:53 am 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
Hi. The mods you're talking about implies a change of status of your rifle. Air guns over 500 fps and 4.2 foot/pound of energy at the muzzle need the owner to have a Possession and Acquisition License (PAL). Both factors need to be met, but in .22 calibre, it's rather easy to get over the limit. For example, if your rifle shoots a 14.3 grains pellet at 450 fps, it'll get 6.43 fpe:

Avg. velocity x avg velocity x weight in grains / 450240 = FPE

450 fps x 450 fps x 14.3 gr. divided by 450240 = 6.43 fpe

So for an under 500 fps rifle, you're already over the muzzle energy limit. If you mod it to get over 500 fps, you' ll need your PAL.

What are your goals? Plinking, target shooting, hunting? You can greatly improve your gun with easy mods like trigger tuning, de-burring/ polishing of the trigger/action components, and more, while keeping it under 500 fps. A harsh shooting rifle is not fun, even more without accuracy. Just my 0.02$.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 9:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2016 3:56 pm
Posts: 9
Yeah I guess so. What sort of trigger tunes are there? Isn't there a way to make the trigger easier to pull? If so, how can that be done? I would imagine that would be pretty useful lol. Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
Posts: 1184
Location: Eastern Townships
OK...Here are some pictures to help me describe the work to be done. You'll need to remove the trigger assy. from the rifle to perform the mods.

The first picture is of a common Crosman trigger used on many models of rifles (Phantom, Optimus, Vantage and the likes). The green arrow shows the trigger blade pin, the blue arrow shows the sear lever pin and the yellow arrow shows the sear pin.

To take the trigger assy. apart, first remove the E-clip on the trigger pin, then remove the pin while holding the trigger blade in place, then remove the trigger blade. To remove the rear pin in the trigger blade, slightly depress the spring leg you’ll see at the rear of the blade, then you’ll be able to remove the front pin and the spring. Then remove the E-clip and pin holding the sear, and then the sear. You may need to ‘’play’’ with the springs inside the trigger casing to remove the pin. Finally, unhook the safety spring leg from the safety indentations, then remove the sear lever E-clip and pin, and then the lever. Take good notes on how the springs are positioned, maybe some pictures while you you take it apart will help too.

The second picture shows an ''exploded’’ view of the parts. The red arrow shows an adjusting screw that you should leave alone; I saw many peoples on the net saying you should install a longer screw, but don't. This screw is adjusting the sear lever travel, if you make it longer, you risk having a ''hair'' trigger, which could result in a rifle firing with a very small bump. The blue arrows shows a spring that you can over-compress a bit to ease the ''first'' stage of the trigger. You shouldn't remove it, you'll end up with play in the trigger. The green arrow shows a pin that could benefit from being polished with #600-#1000 sand paper. This pin actuate the sear lever, it actually rubs against the lever, so polishing help. It also is a working part in the anti-beartrap mechanism.

The third picture shows the sear lever and sear itself, and the green arrows show the areas that will benefit from polishing with #600-#1000 sand paper. You don’t want to remove material or change the geometry of the parts, just polish. You can remove the stamping burr, but leave the surfaces square and flat. The blue arrow shows the pivot slot, which can also be polished.

If you want to go ‘’maniac’’ about it, you could also polish all the pins and pivot points, and also the safety lever indentations, where the safety spring sits, but it’s not necessary to get a good working trigger. Regarding lubrication, there are many opinions about it. I like to use light weight synthetic grease, a thin film is all it needs. You can also use non-detergent 30 weight motor oil, or even Pellgun oil, again a light film will do. If you wish, you can use Moly paste, a very thin, transparent coating is all it needs.

Another major improvement is to change the trigger blade over for a GTX trigger. This is an adjustable trigger blade, and comments are very good on it. You can get it here: http://scopesandammo.com/storefront/pro ... more-p-242
I can’t comment on it though, I never used it.

These trigger mods will lower the effort necessary to pull the trigger, and improve the feel and probably the accuracy of the rifle. This is the way I do it, I’m not saying it’s the ultimate way, but it gave me very good results.


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Exploded_view.JPG [ 60.24 KiB | Viewed 2097 times ]
Areas_to_polish.JPG
Areas_to_polish.JPG [ 73.95 KiB | Viewed 2097 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:49 pm
Posts: 141
Location: S-E New Brunswick forest
I have a GTX trigger in a nitro venom and can give it a thumbs up

G


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 8:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 1:06 pm
Posts: 175
Location: Yukon
x2 for the GTX trigger
put one in my Phantom 22, it is a big improvement

Also, not really a huge modification but does help overall function and appearance.
Since it's scoped, I popped off the open sights and put on a slip-on set screw style muzzle break, much nicer to grab when breaking and offers a different look


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: United States
The aftermarket triggers are nice, but if you're not willing to spend that or just prefer to do it yourself then there's several mods to choose from. Most people do the washer mod because it's super easy and super cheap, but I'm not feelin that one, plus it can be dangerous. My fave involves doing several things but the main and hardest part to the mod is drilling/tapping a 3mm hole like in the pix. If you can do that then I can go into the other details which are in a guide I have. chevota at hotmail and I'll send it along with a tuning guide for the gun.
If you want to do the washer mod the guide covers how to at least check it and what to look for safety wise. Same with any mod really, including an aftermarket trigger which many people adjust to a hair trigger but that defeats the point of it and makes it dangerous.


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