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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:21 am 
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Location: Hamilton
Have an old rusty Webley MKI that badly needs re-conditioning, especially refinishing, there's no finish left on it, but not badly pitted.
Am I kidding myself about a cold bluing process, such as Birchwood Casey's, or Brownells Oxpho-blue etc..
Or does someone know of a way of improving on the process, with addition of gentle heat, boiling in water, whatever?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 1:51 am 
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Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
We use birchwood casey superblue. Warm up piece with propane torch. Then hot to after solution is applied. Let sit for a minute and polish. Do as many coats as necessary. We find its way more durable than if you just follow their instructions. Oil well after last coat because it could continue to rust.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 2:11 am 
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Forgot to mention to get it really hot after last coat is polished and actuall dip it in oil bath if possible. If it smokes when it hits the oil that's good. At least this works very well for us. Gippeto did a post on rust bluing a while back and that works beautifully but it takes time.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 6:57 am 
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Location: Muskoka
I've had mixed results with cold bluing. One thing I noticed is that using steel wool between applications gave me blotches. I believe steel wool often has oil on it (maybe otherwise it would rust like crazy) and that transferred to the work, then the blue messed up. If you use steel wool degrease after... clean clean clean... wear gloves or fingerprints will create crazy blotches.

When all done it would smell like sulphur for years no matter how many times I cleaned it... until I cleaned it with baking soda!

Also, different steels on the same gun blued differently


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:58 am 
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Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
Never thought about the steel wool having oil on it. Will be rinsing in degreaser from now on. Also we wear nitrile powder free gloves at all times when bluing. Am going to experiment heating small parts in boiling water rather than torch to get a more uniform heat

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Location: Kingston, ON
I have a barrel made from a blank that could use some re-bluing.
Is the Outers gun blue sold at CT any good or waste of effort?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 3:47 pm 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
ejackyou wrote:
Have an old rusty Webley MKI that badly needs re-conditioning, especially refinishing, there's no finish left on it, but not badly pitted.
Am I kidding myself about a cold bluing process, such as Birchwood Casey's, or Brownells Oxpho-blue etc..
Or does someone know of a way of improving on the process, with addition of gentle heat, boiling in water, whatever?


I like Oxpho Blue, but Ive used the cheaper kits. I use a hair dryer to heat up the metal before applying.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:48 pm 
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Location: Canada
balan wrote:
Gippeto did a post on rust bluing a while back and that works beautifully but it takes time.


Whole heartedly agree....on BOTH counts. :lol:

Stan, once you get a handle on rust bluing, you'll never want to use cold blue again. It IS a lot of work, and there's no instant gratification with it, but the end result is something you'll be looking at with no small amount of pride for years to come.

A job worth doing...

Al


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 10:58 pm 
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Location: Hamilton
Thanks very much everyone some good ideas!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 1:07 am 
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Posts: 1271
Location: United States
A tidbit if still cold bluing: Since the surface is damaged you could sand blast it first. I use 60/80 Garnet and the end result comes out matte but very nice. Cold bluing a whole gun has otherwise not worked out for me, but imo a nice matte is much better than blotchy inconsistent smooth/shiny. Plus it does an excellent job of covering the rust damage.
Steel wool: Yes it has oil and will ruin your efforts, so simply strip the oil off.I do that with brake cleaner, but I'd imagine hot soapy water would work as well. It will of course start to rust but I see no adverse effects from it. I just cut maybe 15mm off the end of the wool pad, which is usually 4x more than I actually end up using.
I hear Oxpho is the best but I still haven't tried it. I even sent a sample of the stuff I've been using to a guy to test next to the Ox and he says the Ox is better.
As for heating I just warm it, maybe 120F? If you go too far it starts having drawbacks, which you can tinker with and see. I warm it to get the moisture and oil out, and it speeds up the cold blue. Just tinker, you'll see what I mean.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:17 am 
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Location: Saint John NB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

Here is a great video to watch.

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Im addicted to brake fluid..........but I can stop anytime....


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 3:42 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
That is a very good video on rust bluing. I prefer longer pegs in the ends of the barrel.

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Daryl


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