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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
Posts: 758
Location: Burlington ON
These parts are about $20 or so, what benefits or improvements do they bring?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 10:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:46 pm
Posts: 2815
Location: Canada
Extended probe offers some performance enhancement over the stock probe/bolt.

Hollow probe loads all pellets to the same depth. Some folks (myself included) feel there's an increased potential for accuracy if the pellet is started into the rifling "square".

Handle ..larger might be easier to work with gloves?? Bling factor? Higher strength materials for heavier striker springs (stainless or steel vs brass)

Al


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 11:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
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Location: Burlington ON
Thanks Al, makes sense I suppose. I think the handle comes with it, not sure why but I assume you can just use the regular one with the longer probe too. I have not looked at these parts yet but I also assume the handle just screws into the bolt at a right angle(?).


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:08 pm 
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Location: Canada
Aftermarket handles or those intended for use with the steel breech are threaded into the bolt/probe. The stock parts that come with the plastic breech are a press fit and peened together.

The handle can be punched out and threaded if it's needed.

Al


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:27 am
Posts: 2514
Location: Vancouver
Yes, it's threaded in. Unfortunately the small diameter of these bolts limits the thread size to something rather small, which tends to bend or break rather easily, especially if a harder spring is used. Going to a high quality steel, and in some cases also to a larger hole and thread size, makes this more secure. I found that merely tapping a larger hole (10-32 in the case of my 2240) for a bigger bolt handle thread eventually resulted in the remaining thin edges of the stock Crosman bolt bending, as did a mild steel hollow probe bolt I made later. Going to a good grade of stainless or other tougher steel eliminates this problem. Threading a stock brass bolt as Al mentions can work if the spring is kept soft - but I needed a harder spring to compensate for using a HiPAC at 3,000psi which made it much harder to knock open the valve.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
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Location: Burlington ON
Interesting stuff, thanks guys.
If you mean the hammer spring I would be weakening it, not making it harder by snipping about 1/4 in off, which I am advised gives more shots and more consistency with CO2. I just discovered this little tweak in the last few days and it has pushed me over the edge to giving a 2240 mod a go (rather than a 1377, which does not have the CO2/consistency issue but all that pumping has kept me away from pushing the button on that one - for now).
The quest is to come up with a consistent shooter with temperature issues minimized so I am now trying to find out what else is worth adding to the bundle beyond the usual steel breech and upgraded (LW) barrel.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:41 pm 
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Location: Vancouver
That's right, the hammer spring. With CO2 clipping it shorter is a good bet. Going to an SSG or TSS can get you even more efficiency, but an RVA will let you fine tune that shorter spring well enough. An RVA is basically a bolt through the rear cap which allows you to adjust spring preload tension.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:06 pm 
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Location: Burlington ON
Yes, I saw there are a couple of types of RVA, is there one to recommend? I know you can drill and tap the back cap and make your own too but I will skip making a mess of that... Is the RVA needed as well as the clipped spring or instead of?
What means SSG and TSS (I will look them up and see what I can find).


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:27 am
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Location: Vancouver
Many threads on the SSG, here on CAF and more on GTA (gateway to airguns forum), especially useful reading the posts by rsterne. The TSS or twin spring system is simpler to make in its most basic form, but in a more complicated version is easy to adjust. It is basically a larger diameter heavy gauge spring and a smaller, lighter spring with opposite soundpost coils, the inner spring not quite touching the hammer when uncocked. Not easy to implement in a 22xx owing to the way the hammer has a fairly small hole for the spring, where the SSG is very practical with these airguns and when properly built and tuned can deliver amazing consistency and efficiency. There's a long GTA thread about extracting the greatest number of shots from a 2240 with an SSG. Started by Bob Sterne of course:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/ind ... c=103343.0


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
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Location: Burlington ON
Thanks, it was Bob who tipped me off with the spring snipping technique.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
Posts: 758
Location: Burlington ON
Regarding the velocity adjusters, I guess the "2300 style" is a good choice as it has a locking screw?

This doesn't look bad for even less money, simple and sleek (and Serbian...!). Says you can take out the spring without removing it, can you also do that with the Crosman parts by winding the adjuster screw out all the way?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Crosman-2240-225 ... 1584535239


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:27 am
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Location: Vancouver
That eBay listed RVA and end cap looks very nice indeed. I'd be careful about tightening your grip frame bolt too much as the cap is aluminum, you don't want to risk stripping those softer threads, but a little bit of grease on the threads whenever you're reassembling and limited torque ought to keep it working just fine. Same for the brass on aluminum, you'll want a bit of lube on there to keep things working smoothly. But it seems there's enough adjustment potential and it's neatly made and compact, a nice choice.


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