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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:33 am 
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For example, a Hatsan Model 25 (non-SuperCharger) break barrel pistol.

It said we need to oil the gun regularly after every some hundred shots. So, where and how? What oil to be used (Pellgunoil, air chamber lube, synthetic motor oil, lithium lube for firearms...)?

It also said, disassemble a springer is dangerous and can't be done by DIYer and should bring the gun to the gunsmith...

Please kindly share your experience and advice as I love the gun so much but the only care I can do is to clean the barrel with cleaning pellet and a rod...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 2:00 pm 
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They are many videos out there on "How to oil an Air Gun" if your Hatsan owners manual doesn't give specifics. With recommended oils to use too.
Of coarse the manual is going to state.
Do not attempt to disassemble or tamper with your air rifle. Use a competent gunsmith. Many air rifles contain
powerful springs which can cause serious injury if released in an uncontrolled manner.

Remember this gun is made in the USA and they sue for spilling hot coffee on yourself...like million$$$.
Imagine if they didn't say that...and someone hurt themselves.

So as far as dismantling your own Air Gun...I guess depends on if you're mechanically inclined or not. If you are not comfortable and don't trust your own ability then definitely take it to someone with experience.

PDF.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 2:55 pm 
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YepYep wrote:
It also said, disassemble a springer is dangerous and can't be done by DIYer and should bring the gun to the gunsmith...


Can't? Come on. Of course you can. If it was a magnum springer then you would probably need a spring compressor which are fairly easy to make with a bar clamp. Watch some video's on youtube and I think you'll understand the process. While it's apart you may want to de-burr and edges that can damage the piston seal. Good time to inspect all the internals for damage.

My understanding is moly lube is the best stuff for lubing your piston seal and spring. A little goes a long way. Oils are ok but will not maintain over long periods of time.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 3:22 pm 
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Nope. ..the manual only mentioned you need to take care of it, but no how-to except ask you to go to the gunsmith...

And it's not as simple as co2 gun which only need Pellgunoil on the cartridge tip or the pumper that you only need to oil the pivot and moving parts... and I want to know first, oiling / maintenance on a springer must disassemble it first ??

Because I hate to deal with the springs.... it looks everytime I will have bouncing and lost things when I work on them ... even when fixing toys for my 4 years old boy...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 3:35 pm 
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A springer consist of a piston, spring, spring guide, and some shims. Sometimes a sleeve for the spring. Yes it must be disassembled to perform maintenance. By all means if you are not comfortable take it to a gunsmith but I think it is within most people capability to perform the maintenance themselves.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:06 pm 
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Thanks so much for the inputs!

Dave and Mighty-Jack (?!) You two just gave the very useful info that I can follow up to finish the job. I downloaded and keep the thing in my cloud drive already in case it won't get lost !



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 12:28 am 
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If well tuned using the proper grease , springers don't need the spring to the taken out for up to 10 years depending how much you shoot it.

More common maintenance is to oil the joint/pivot points (and any other external friction points) after 500 shots and put one drop of chamber oil down the transfer port with the gun pointed up. Then gently work the lever a few times without fully cocking the gun. This should work the oil into the joints and distribute the chamber oil across the piston seal.

You can clean the barrel by putting a felt cleaning pellet with a regular lead pellet behind it and shooting it in a safe direction. Shooting the cleaning pellet only won't give enough back pressure and will result in the same effects as dry firing.

If you want to open the spring cylinder, make sure you know what you're doing. I find that most non-pal springers you can open and put back together without specialized tools such as spring compressors. PAL rifles usually have too much spring preload to close the end plug by hand safely.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 7:34 am 
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Thanks~ this looks much easier to finish in no time ~ will try to do it in the weekend !

Orz...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 11:39 am 
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As has been stated, oil in airguns is pretty much for linkage only, and certainly not for internal components for it can create detonations which can damage the gun. Spring guns do not, for the most part, need lubrication. With the old leather piston seals, they did require an occasional oiling for proper seating, but not with the newer synthetics. If you choose not to disassemble the rifle to clean and lube, you can smear, through the cocking slot, some Moly onto the spring. When the gun fires the Moly will spray off and coat the inner surface of the compression tube. RC


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 1:57 pm 
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RC1947 wrote:
As has been stated, oil in airguns is pretty much for linkage only, and certainly not for internal components for it can create detonations which can damage the gun. Spring guns do not, for the most part, need lubrication. With the old leather piston seals, they did require an occasional oiling for proper seating, but not with the newer synthetics. If you choose not to disassemble the rifle to clean and lube, you can smear, through the cocking slot, some Moly onto the spring. When the gun fires the Moly will spray off and coat the inner surface of the compression tube. RC
Thanks for the suggestion. But, what the Moly means ?!

And I will need to use a Q-tip or a rod to smear the Moly from the opening under the barrel, along the pivot arm and can reach the main spring there right? (And that's called the cocking slot ?!)

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 3:33 pm 
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There are many good YouTube videos for tuning air guns.....a picture....or a video.... is worth a thousand words..... :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 3:34 pm 
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YepYep wrote:
But, what the Moly means ?!

Molybdenum Disulfide Grease
JET-LUBE MP-50 LOW FRICTION MOLY 225ML is most likely the best bang for your buck. But ain't cheap this 225ml will run over $30 cdn.
I've heard you might pickup some moly paste from your local Honda dealer...he'll most liklely have to order it for you.(Edit Thx MyCrosman ya that stuff :mrgreen: ) Or Yamaha make a Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease for their motorclyles etc.
Careful what you buy just because it says moly on it... you are after a product that has around 70% or higher.
You might search also for DOW CORNING MOLYKOTE M77 or LOCTITE Moly Paste.

Even hit your local Hobby Store and look for Hob-E-Lube Assortment HL650 I've had this little kit in my hobby room for over 25 yrs. Has a little bit of everything in it.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 4:00 pm 
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I found D&L has this (from the container, it should be paste too...)

How about it?!

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 4:08 pm 
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MyCrosman wrote:
There are many good YouTube videos for tuning air guns.....a picture....or a video.... is worth a thousand words..... :D


Yeah, I know... but I can't find anything regarding the Hatsan MOD 25 I have...

I don't mind to try to disassemble the gun if I watch the video and follow it step by step (once I did the same and fixed my laundry machine...). But there is nothing I found except the introduction or open box for the SuperCharger (not even the low power normal mod-25 )...

So I don't even know which screw I should put my hands on first...

And from the 'exploded view' or say part number list of a SuperCharger, it looks I can't get reach to the spring without disassemble it...

I share the exploded view of the gun, I am thinking if I can just disassemble the grip and leave all the upper parts together?! So that I can put ludes on the open parts...http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a1dd007e8438/MOD_25_SUPERCHARGER-exploded_view-June2013.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:03 pm 
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YepYep wrote:
I found D&L has this...How about it?!

Yes Abbey Gun Grease is great.
Remember this is for Metal to Metal contact. Grease is petroleum base. Should not be used on Orings.
A silicone grease/oil should be used for them. Silicone does not swell or soften O rings. Where a petroleum base product might.
I believe Abbey makes a silicone grease as well.


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