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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 11:02 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:20 pm
Posts: 326
Location: North Dakota
Maintenance-free Air filter high pressure air pump external oil and water separator to reduce contaminants pumped into PCP Precharged air guns.

Aliexpress LINK

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:30 pm 
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Location: Edmonton
Does it come with molecular sieve to be placed in the tube or just the "cotton like" material? Looks good.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:34 pm 
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Location: North Dakota
apitagan wrote:
Does it come with molecular sieve to be placed in the tube or just the "cotton like" material? Looks good.


This one is a different design than the gold straight through one...this one advertizes no maintenace...no consumables.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 4:03 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
A simple trap for oil and liquid water.... The output to your tank will be warm air (just compressed) saturated with water vapour.... When it cools inside your tank you are almost guaranteed to get condensation.... It is a great improvement over not trapping the water and oil.... just be aware of the limitations....

Bob

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 6:08 pm 
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This is new to me. On my YH, for the past year I have the Tuxing golden air/water separator, inserted a pvc pipe that fits snug into it, and some molecular sieve, tightly packed with the small OEM cotton filter at the end of it. The pvc is to protect against corrosion from the molecular sieve chemicals.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:11 pm 
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Hey CZ,

Sounds like a pretty good setup - that’s how I would have modified the filter you have for effective and safe operation. You could always add a second stage with another separator and some activated charcoal inside the PVC pipe. The other thing I’d do is install an o-ring around one end of the pvc pipe to ensure compressed air doesn’t bypass the desiccant by travelling between the aluminum cylinder and PVC. Add an 1800 psi regulator at the output to ensure air is passing through the molecular sieve under pressure, and you’ll have yourself an Alpha Filter for half the price.

Cheers!

Avianmanor

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 7:47 am 
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Not wanting to detract from the start of the thread, but does anyone have a source for the 13x Molecular Sieve in Canada?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:59 am 
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Avianmanor wrote:
Hey CZ,

Sounds like a pretty good setup - that’s how I would have modified the filter you have for effective and safe operation. You could always add a second stage with another separator and some activated charcoal inside the PVC pipe. The other thing I’d do is install an o-ring around one end of the pvc pipe to ensure compressed air doesn’t bypass the desiccant by travelling between the aluminum cylinder and PVC. Add an 1800 psi regulator at the output to ensure air is passing through the molecular sieve under pressure, and you’ll have yourself an Alpha Filter for half the price.

Cheers!

Avianmanor


That's some good ideas there. The o - ring really does make sense to prevent the bypass. You could never overdo it when it comes to thousands of PSI air pressure. So a little o - ring for some extra peace of mind is not a bad idea at all, thanks. I'll have a look at some regulators, sounds like a fun project.
Have a good weekend.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:54 am 
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Is activated charcoal (which is flammable) safe in contact with 4500 psi air?.... IMO a proper dessicant such as Silica Gel or Molecular Sieve would be far better (and safer?)....

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal;
Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:51 pm 
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rsterne wrote:
Is activated charcoal (which is flammable) safe in contact with 4500 psi air?.... IMO a proper dessicant such as Silica Gel or Molecular Sieve would be far better (and safer?)....

Bob


Apparently "activated charcoal is the most common filter media because it has a large open pore structure; a handful of activated charcoal has the surface area of a football field."

Here are the 3 types of compressed air filters. Activated charcoal is categorized under 'Vapour Removal Filters':
https://www.thecompressedairblog.com/3- ... ir-filters

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:04 pm 
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I suppose the charcoal is likely less combustible than the oil vapour it is intended to remove.... It is not intended to remove water....

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal;
Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 5:23 pm 
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Location: Southern Gulf Islands, Beautiful British Columbia, Canada
Hence the concept of multiple stages?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 4:02 pm 
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Here's a look at the three stage filter cartridge found inside the Alpha Filter. Cotton Wadding, Molecular Sieve, Charcoal. Note it's all spring loaded to keep the various filter mediums dense, and a rubber O-Ring installed to seal the plastic filter cartridge against the aluminum cylinder wall so that compressed air cannot bypass the filter media. Manufacturer claims this system was designed by "air filtration experts".

Cheers!

Avianmanor


Attachments:
File comment: Three Stage Air Filter
IMG_5647.jpg
IMG_5647.jpg [ 46.28 KiB | Viewed 1123 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:28 pm 
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Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler for external oil and water separator


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20180620_180914.jpg
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File comment: Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler for external oil and water separator
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
I tried long ago to get water out of my compressed shop air with zero luck. I needed a filter for auto body painting and my sand blaster b/c the media would cake up when moist. I bought several water seperators which are actually money seperators b/c that's all they actually do. I even bought a rather large one that again did not catch one drop. The OP's filter appears to simply be a high pressure version of the same. Not to be a dik but I can't see how it'll work, plus it's very expensive.
I'm into cheap home brew fixes and here's what I did: I used desiccant which I know will work, and put it into a container than can handle shop air pressure yet have a large lid that is easy to open so I can get the desiccant in n out:
Filter housing: amazon.com/gp/B003VT79VA
Desiccant: ebay.com/itm/221850677817
That qty of desiccant is just enough to pack that filter housing so it works out perfectly. This will be my third such filter, the others were loaned out so you know what happens....
I liked this new housing for two reasons; one it's much cheaper for some reason, and it's clear so you can check its progress visually vs having to open it now and then. I drill/tap the bottom to 1/4 NPT and put a female air fitting in since this will be the exit. Plug the orig inlet hole and put a male air fitting in the orig outlet hole as this will be the inlet. Reason is I want the air/water coming in the cap end so optionally I can just replace the wet bags on top. Yes the very first ones will catch all the water, then as they become saturated the bags below will do it and so on which proves how well they work. The filter housings max rating is 125psi, so to be clear this is only for shop air use. I use 140psi but whatever you do I suggest you place it so "if" it blows it won't get you. They appear to be very strong but why risk it, plus they're made in china.
Like my shop tools, my pcp comp needs shop air too (Shoebox F10). The filter assy is very cheap, extremely effective and the desiccant is reusable via some drying in the oven or sun. Well, maybe not Canadian sun...
If you have a diff type of high pressure compressor, like a chinese two stage, then I imagine you could put this between the stages? Assuming the pressure is safe after stage one. Know that even air at 100psi is very hot and will no doubt soften the plastic and likely blow the air fitting out, so you'd need to use some steel, copper or alum line to cool the air b4 it gets there. No doubt the cooler the air the easier it is for the desiccant to catch the water, but just a guess.
I'm guessing the OP's pump is single cyl two stage? In that case you could actually put the desiccant inside your super housing.
Since that water filters size is kinda overkill, at least for me, the second one I made (for my plazma cutter) was one of these smaller housings: amazon.com/dp/B00CCMNOSE
I believe for my Shoebox I will make an even smaller one from pvc pipe. I rekon a 1.5" pipe maybe 8" long with threaded caps.
Fyi those desiccant packs in the link are in bags of cotton which work great. Some are sold in plastic bags w/ pinholes so no doubt virtually all the air will simply pass around the bags. I've also used paper bag versions which worked fine but become very weak when wet and they'd often break open. So whatever type you get be sure the bags are breatheable yet strong, which pretty much narrows it down to cotton. Also, when I disconnect the inlet fitting while under pressure it vents very quickly, so quickly that I've had it rupture the wet bag at the top (see paper bag above). So my fix was to put a couple layers of ScotchBrite pad over the desiccant. Optionally you could buy a little 1/4 turn valve so you can vent it slowly, which I later ended up doing to my orig setup. Since the pump and gun can bennie from clean air I suppose a section of an old T-shirt packed in the bottom would work as a filter, or better yet some vacuum cleaner bag paper! You don't want hair, fibers or desiccant dust getting caught in your valves...
An oilless comp is ideal, but if you have a oil type then maybe stuff a couple paper towels into the inlet side of the filter where I had originally put scotchbrite? Or get a second filter housing and pack the whole thing w/ paper towels. For the OP's super housing I guess I'd pack half w/ paper towels and half w/ desiccant bags?


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