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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
Posts: 758
Location: Burlington ON
Don't know if these photos will work out but anyway, this is a "prototype" front sight I rigged up out of sticky labels cut into circles and rings with a leather punch. Anyone ever come up with a proper solution like this that would work better with the (1322) peep rather than the standard post which is not great?
Maybe there is a fibreoptic front sight available that works like this?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 2:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
Posts: 758
Location: Burlington ON
AH!

http://www.canadashootingsupply.ca/fibe ... -17xx.html

Although it doesn't look like it would fit the standard 1322 as the blade on the latest design seems to be integrated into the cap on the end of the air tube... (the listing says "longer barrels" because of that I guess).


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 8:30 pm
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Location: Eastern Townships
I have these available:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 11:27 pm
Posts: 2074
Location: Toronto
Maybe you can find a washer the size the of red outer right and carefully drill the smaller hole through the front sight.

I wouldn't do anything to a crosman 1322 though...The sight radius is too short to take advantage of a proper target sight setup anyways. You're better off mounting an optic or using the front post as is.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6004
Location: P.G. B.C.
A rear aperture with a narrow post, small diameter bead or properly sized aperture front sight is the best there is.

An aperture front sight must be properly sized for the ambient light and bulls-eye size to be more effective than a simple

post of bead.

Your front sight, while interesting, is too 'cluttered' for me.

If you want to improve the post (that has all your STUFF on iT), slim it with a file, both sides to scratch marks on the front and rear.

Make it thinner at the uzzle-end to avoid glare from the sides as you look through the rear sight, then simply put a swipe of dry er-race black felt pen

on each side. The dry-er-race are flat black and also make good 'front sight blackeners due to their flat black appearance.

If you brush the dry er-racer off the sight, put some more on. Easy-on, easy off. Permanent marker is shiny and makes a poor sight blackener.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:32 pm
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Location: Burlington ON
Daryl wrote:
Your front sight, while interesting, is too 'cluttered' for me.

I feel the need for circles to centre them all but it is a good point as it becomes hard to see the target. I also just lost the red circle somewhere between the workshop (spare room) and range (basement)...

TriggerHappy416 wrote:
Maybe you can find a washer the size the of red outer right and carefully drill the smaller hole through the front sight.

Interesting you say that as I had a similar thought. Could also cut a narrow slot to the drilled hole and slide a small 'O' ring into it to be held upright in the hole.

I will play around with a fibreoptic airmec kindly offered to send and see what I can do.
I struggle a bit in poor light though so perhaps will eventually end up with steel breech and optic (my eyes are fussy with red dots as well though).


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 6004
Location: P.G. B.C.
The front sight you made does not need the blade. If you have a rear aperture, as you do, a front aperture wil give you 2 rings. The bullseye is the third ring.

Thus DOUBLE apertures (front and rear) when placed over the target gives you 3 rings. As I noted above, this is the MOST accurate metallic sight system there is.

What you did on the front sight post on your gun, is to add a ring- ie: aperture, which is NOT needed nor desired on a post sight. Then you put on a white dot which

is on zero value, but looks like a white bullseye surrounded by 2 rings (rear and front apertures) with a post behind it which is of zero value. Where do you place the

target's bull - behind the blade's white dot so it is hidden? You cannot hit what you cannot hold in perfect alignment. If it is hidden behind a tall blade - you will not only

have vertical but horizontal error - thus useless

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Daryl


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