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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:04 pm 
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Location: Bowmanville, Ontario
YepYep wrote:
I don't have a chrony, but I can tell trimming the spring a little doesn't affect the fps just letting you save some co2 for more shots.

Sent from my LG cellphone


That’s exactly what I’m looking for.
I don’t need the gun to be illegal, just less wasteful.
I definite have co2 vapour exhausting the barrel.
It looks like tonight after 8pm I’ll have some time. I’ll try to watch some videos before tearing into it. And wasting yet another vile. Lol. I just put this one in. Good thing I got the princess auto sale on a 40 box of co2.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 6:57 pm 
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I’m trying to find a video that actually explains what’s happening but I’m not coming up with anything useful. Everyone just shows the result, which doesn’t help at all.

Am I to believe the spring is too strong or too weak? The addition of a setting screw is a spring retention screw to compress or release pressure on the screw to adjust how hard or how fast it hits?
Then someone mentioned a shaft as a spring guide? To stop deflection?
Am I understanding this correctly? I have not disassembled the gun yet. It works and I like it, and I’m not ready to disassemble it until I understand what exactly is happening with the mod.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:16 pm 
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Carpenter84 wrote:
I’m trying to find a video that actually explains what’s happening but I’m not coming up with anything useful. Everyone just shows the result, which doesn’t help at all.

Am I to believe the spring is too strong or too weak? The addition of a setting screw is a spring retention screw to compress or release pressure on the screw to adjust how hard or how fast it hits?
Then someone mentioned a shaft as a spring guide? To stop deflection?
Am I understanding this correctly? I have not disassembled the gun yet. It works and I like it, and I’m not ready to disassemble it until I understand what exactly is happening with the mod.


Just picture dropping a bowling ball. It will bounce, but bounce again but little less. That what the hammer is doing. Its hitting the valve, but still has enough energy to hit the valve again, wasting C02.

You can make a spring stop guide which prevents the hammer from bouncing.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:51 pm 
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So, do I want to compress the spring more? It will hit that piercing pin harder. Is that an adverse effect? Won't that let more co2 out by pushing the pin harder, lengthening the time the valve is open?


Btw, I disassembled the gun and nearly lost that o-ring in the transfer port from co2 chamber to barrel....

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 8:30 pm 
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Carpenter84 wrote:
Btw, I disassembled the gun and nearly lost that o-ring in the transfer port from co2 chamber to barrel....

Have you lost the little ball bearing for the safety yet?? There are only two kinds of 2240 owners - ones that have lost at least one of those, or ones that have not disassembled their 2240 yet. :cry:

Also, I seem to remember it's not necessary to disassemble the gun to work on the hammer spring - just take off the back plug.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 8:38 pm 
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lleader wrote:
Carpenter84 wrote:
Btw, I disassembled the gun and nearly lost that o-ring in the transfer port from co2 chamber to barrel....

Have you lost the little ball bearing for the safety yet?? There are only two kinds of 2240 owners - ones that have lost at least one of those, or ones that have not disassembled their 2240 yet. :cry:

Also, I seem to remember it's not necessary to disassemble the gun to work on the hammer spring - just take off the back plug.


I searched for hours looking for that ball bearing.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:06 pm 
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I am lucky to know about this before I worked on my trigger on my 1322 ( same as the 2240 at this part) AND it just dropped and I nearly lost it ~ If I don't know it before I started the job, I am sure I would just lost it and have no idea why the safety not working anymore....

===

To work on the hammer spring, you only need to remove the end cap, one screw on top and one under it. The top one might need you to remove the rear sight first. And the bottom one need you to remove the grips first...

Before you take the screw out, hold the cap to prevent it being pushed out and fly away by the spring.

And the spring there you find is the one you looking for. Cut it, sand the sharp edge and put it back... It's just done.

Cutting a few threads of the spring is to weaken it, in order to reduce the bouncing and the valve opening time to conserve the co2.

Sent from my LG cellphone

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:29 pm 
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I don't think so!!?
The spring is still there... Is the bearing below the spring?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:33 pm 
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Okay. When I took the stock and trigger off I kept it level and took it off slowly to keep from spring-a-ma-thinging across the room. I figured there was springs there. So, I was probably safe. But I DID almost lose the sealing rubber ring in the transfer port. Which would have been much much worse.

Ok, so the spring needs to be weaker to not bounce. But then would it reduce the pressure on the pin? How many fps do you think you lose?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:21 pm 
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Yes, it did reduce the pressure on the pin.

So the guys on YouTube gets 90 shots on one co2 and said if he cut more, the hammer won't have enough power to even pierce the co2...

And for stock setup, it said the too strong spring just let too much co2 out in each shot, so even the pellet already left the muzzle, it just still keep releasing co2. So you will see the co2 smoke on the muzzle... and weaken it is to save those co2 for the other shots...

I don't have a chrony, but in my case, I get about 50 useful shots than before (30 shots ) and it just hit as hard as before... And I don't want to go too far and not need to double or triple the shots counts on it ~

Sent from my LG cellphone

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HW45+Grip panels from Russia


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:28 pm 
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YepYep wrote:
Yes, it did reduce the pressure on the pin.

So the guys on YouTube gets 90 shots on one co2 and said if he cut more, the hammer won't have enough power to even pierce the co2...

And for stock setup, it said the too strong spring just let too much co2 out in each shot, so even the pellet already left the muzzle, it just still keep releasing co2. So you will see the co2 smoke on the muzzle... and weaken it is to save those co2 for the other shots...

I don't have a chrony, but in my case, I get about 50 useful shots than before (30 shots ) and it just hit as hard as before... And I don't want to go too far and not need to double or triple the shots counts on it ~

Sent from my LG cellphone


When I made my 1740, that got over 130 shots. I had to fire the gun 3 times in order to pierce the C02. Now it was tuned around 390 FPS.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:33 pm 
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Excellent. You guys have been a great help.

I think what I'm going to do instead of cutting the spring, I will make the adjustable set screw cap. I will make a deeper spring seat to reduce the spring pressure while making it adjustable. I have the means and equipment, so, why not.

I don't like the idea of cutting the spring and losing the ability to return to stock.

And now that I understand what is ACTUALLY going on, fabbing the parts necessary is easy.
That's just how my little mind works. I have to fully understand the cause and effect in order to visualize a solution. If I can't wrap head around what is happening I have no hope in designing anything.

Thanks for your patience, gents.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2018 5:50 am 
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Oh yeah ~ forgot you have your little work shop!

And you can Google 'power adjuster' for 2240 and will give you more idea and how this thing would look like ~

Cutting the spring is not a big deal for the 2240, if necessary, buy a stock spring again is super easy from anywhere and cheap.

Sent from my LG cellphone

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2018 6:05 am 
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Aw yea. Look at those. That’s exactly what I envisioned.
However, I planned to make the body from O1 or A2 tool steel and harden it, then make the screw from brass, for contrast, and a screw always threads smoother/nicer when the body is hardened.

I’ll post my updates as I go. I’ll do it this weekend as I’d like the gun to be reassembled.

What are some other mods that people do to these? I know there’s the steel breech, but st this time I don’t think I’m too concerned for that. This one cocks really quite nice.
Maybe I’ll make some wooden stocks one day. I have a decent assortment of exotic woods downstairs (wood shop in basement, metal shop in garage)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2018 6:22 am 
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Steel breech is for changing the rear sight and add dove tail to the gun, so you can add other stuff on it.

I have my peep sight setup on 2240 and scoped the 1322. So both gun I put the steel breech on.

And maybe you can try to make the tiny valve port?! I bought it not make it for myself... [emoji16] A bigger ID port can let the gun breath better and send more air into the barrel when the hammer hits.

Wood grips is good idea too. But I like the shoulder stock better so I didn't do that on mine.

2240 / 1322 / 1740 / 1377 etc are very good platforms for mods... And SOOOO many great examples out there! Just Google it or think something special for yourself ~ it's very fun and rewarding! Just don't make a world's most expensive gun out by yourself ~

Sent from my LG cellphone

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Future AA ProSport
HW30/35
2240+14" barrel
Camo Chaser long barrel rifle kit
P3+2x20 Kit Scope
HW40+Extender
HW45+Grip panels from Russia


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