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 Post subject: Transfer Port Sleeve ...
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 4:04 pm 
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Location: Thunder Bay,On.
Has anyone ever drilled out the transfer port sleeve with a dremel or drill? Is a lathe necessary or can one get by with some other method?...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 4:23 pm 
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I just put the TP in a broken drill to hold. Then used another drill to drill it out.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 4:43 pm 
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As it turns out I DO have 2 drills and a few transfer ports in case I mess up....do you know if these ports are made of aluminum or steel?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 5:01 pm 
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MyCrosman wrote:
As it turns out I DO have 2 drills and a few transfer ports in case I mess up....do you know if these ports are made of aluminum or steel?


Yeah I crushed a few in a vice. But found the chuck is better. I think stainless.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 7:21 pm 
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I think that's possible as I didn't DIY this, but I do have the enlarged sleeves bought from eBay for my 2240 and 1322... Different styles but same purpose and method to finish... But one of it is stainless steel, the other is brass...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:11 am 
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YepYep wrote:
I think that's possible as I didn't DIY this, but I do have the enlarged sleeves bought from eBay for my 2240 and 1322... Different styles but same purpose and method to finish... But one of it is stainless steel, the other is brass...

Sent from my S8 via Tapatalk


Thanks for the tip! I can't believe I found a Hatsan AT44 transfer port there in case anyone else is interested.
Ed.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:39 am 
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YepYep wrote:
I think that's possible as I didn't DIY this, but I do have the enlarged sleeves bought from eBay for my 2240 and 1322... Different styles but same purpose and method to finish... But one of it is stainless steel, the other is brass...

Sent from my S8 via Tapatalk


Though most on ebay are for full power. Drilling allows you to custom tune.

My rebel. I drilled out the valve, because I might wanted to put a reg in. But I was left with a bigger TP, and cutting the hammer spring wouldn't bring the velocity down. I got a new TP from Wes, that was super small and very restrictive. Mid 300s...Drilling the port, a size up each time, you can tune the airgun much better.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:52 am 
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Yeah, the TP sleeves from eBay are all max power purpose, so their wall is very thin, should be almost to the margin...

And for power adjustment, isn't it letting the gun breath better is first priority and we can use other way to tune the power down if needed?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 3:49 pm 
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leadslinger wrote:
I just put the TP in a broken drill to hold. Then used another drill to drill it out.

Brilliant!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:05 pm 
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YepYep wrote:
Yeah, the TP sleeves from eBay are all max power purpose, so their wall is very thin, should be almost to the margin...

And for power adjustment, isn't it letting the gun breath better is first priority and we can use other way to tune the power down if needed?

Sent from my S8 via Tapatalk


Clipping hammer springs doesn't always solve it. Like my Rebel, with the increase valve/TP.. Clipping the hammer spring just got it under the limit for 1/3 of the string. As the pressure dropped, the valve was easier to open, and thus velocity increased. Required me getting a new TP and not opening it up as much.. Little goes a long way. So opening it up fully doesn't mean its always efficient. If you are trying to be efficient and use less gas. You probably want to work with the transfer port as well.

Like my Ted Williams, 20 shots I can have a variation of 12 FPS. But after 30, It falls off hard. I say pretty good for a CO2 pistol.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:09 pm 
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walther wrote:
leadslinger wrote:
I just put the TP in a broken drill to hold. Then used another drill to drill it out.

Brilliant!


I was thinking of picking up one of these.. 1/4" shank chuck. Easier to clamp in the vise.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 4:33 pm 
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There's even a simpler way.

These sleeves are steel, and fairly hard. I mount the sleeve in the chuck of a 3/8 drill, and hold the bits in a pair of pliers.
I use a numbered bit set for this going up one size at a time, starting with a bit one size up from the existing hole. It's less likely to burn the port, or break bits that way.

-D.S.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 6:18 pm 
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What size is the 1322/89 port sleeve so I know what drills to buy?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:41 am 
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It depends on how the gun was de-tuned for the Canadian market.

If it's .22 cal, I doubt the port was restricted at all, and there will be a bleed hole on the rear of the valve.

If it's .177 cal, the port may have been restricted to as small as .086", which is pretty tiny. For both calibers, I make sure the port is in the .138"-.140" range, which is the diameter of the exhaust hole in the valve.

This job is much easier to do with a numbered machinist's set rather than a fractional set~ diameters in decimal inches are marked on the numbered set index, and make life pretty easy.

Fractional sets climb up in diameter much faster than numbered sets....

-D.S.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 12:52 pm 
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I believe it has been explored by many and the general consensus is that the optimal port is .66 * the bore . I hope this helps and saves a few ports from becoming oversized .


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