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 Post subject: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 4:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 278
Hi
I have a magnum 350 and when i pull the barrel it wont engage anymore the trigger wont click... Are these hard to take apart? Anyone have instructions? Tks for any help


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:46 am
Posts: 4300
did you play with the trigger adjustment ?
sounds like its set to far and wont let the sear engage
if adjusting it doesn't work then you need to disassemble it and see
whats going on with the trigger/sear engagement

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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 278
Nope i didnt play with the trigger i fired the gun dry once before taking it out and thats when it started.


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 10:42 pm 
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mazda2002 wrote:
Nope i didnt play with the trigger i fired the gun dry once before taking it out and thats when it started.

so this happened after you dry fired it ?
sound like you may have broken something,
not sure why a dry fire would affect the sear engagement, does it feel the same when you cock it ?
any strange noise or feel to it...
you may need to dismantle it, have you dismantled a springer before

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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:32 pm 
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Posts: 1094
Real good info and help here.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/thedian ... e-f184474/


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 9:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 278
Nope feels the same but just wont engage... Never took one apart before i heard the spring can be dangerous.


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 9:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:19 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Alvinston, Ontario
If the automatic safety moved or broke a piece, it will not engage.

To take apart I just use an Irwin Quick clamp, tighten up, drive the 2 pins out. While holding trigger end against hip with pressure, press the clamp release. Not to bad at all.

Putting back together the rear pin is sometimes tricky. May need screwdriver or punch to hold part of trigger out of the way to allow pin to push through.

Might as well make a sleeve and polish insides while apart.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1287
Location: United States
It's been a while since I took a Diana apart, but one thing you might try is cocking it fully, then while holding the barrel there, pull the trigger and see if catches. If not then release the barrel a few inches, pull the trig and cock it back again. Maybe even pull the trig first b4 pulling the barrel the last few inches.
The safety is automatic so I think it will prevent you from doing all this. If I recall it takes over at that critical moment when fully cocked and won't let you pull the trig at all. This is one of many reasons I hate auto safeties, and I can't remember exactly how it works b/c I disable them first thing. So play with it and see if you have any luck, even if it's simply trying over and over to get it to catch b/c it may simply be something is hung up on some defect like a burr or who knows what.
Do not dry fire the gun if you can help it. I know it's super tempting and most noobs do, myself included, but the gun doesn't like it. The scope and scope mount especially doesn't like it and you can break the scope and/or damage the mount. Imo the Diana 350 with a scope dislikes dry fires more than avg, specifically if you use a stop pin the scope mount that goes down into the scope rail. It'll cause the pin to cut a path in the rail, and/or or bend or break the pin. Btw this often happens during normal shooting too, it's just that a dry fire is much more harsh. Like driving over a 2" rocks on the freeway in your car isn't good for it, and if done constantly it may cause problems, but driving over an 6" rock just once is a whole different deal. So that's today's analogy for normal vs dry firing with a scope on ;) No scope then it's likely no biggie, but know it's also hard on the screws that hold the stock to the gun. Guns vary in construction so some can take it like a champ, some will break those screws and/or elongate the holes on the stock if dry fired too many times. If you wonder why this it, it's b/c there's a violent action inside the gun and long story short in needs a pellet to calm it down. You felt this when you fired it and the gun jumped in your hands.

Also; be super careful not to let the barrel get away from you. So when cocking it, keep a good hold on the barrel b/c if it slips out of your hand it'll slam closed with so much force that when it comes to stop the barrel will keep going and bend the barrel upwards :o You can bend it back but is a bent and bent back barrel what you want? I mention this specifically b/c I suspect your trigger may be adjusted wrong.
It is possible the trig adjustment is basically set to a hair trigger, so much so that it simply can't, or can barely hold as-is and may let go first thing or moments later. So I don't want it to catch and you let go of the barrel, then it releases!! Many people have adjusted their guns to a hair trigger, then while loading a pellet it releases and slams closed! If it releases while you're closing the barrel it can bend and/or damage the cocking linkage and maybe still bend the barrel. Just b/c the gun is new doesn't mean the trigger is not in this condition b/c people make mistakes. Maybe it was the last gun on Friday at the factory and the guy rushed it, or who knows what happened.
I think odds more likely that it's stuck on some burr or something and just needs to be unstuck. I'd take the trigger apart and smooth all edges etc and lube it well so it cannot happen again. A sketchy trigger can also mean holes in things you wish didn't, worse case; you or someone else but usually it's a wall or ceiling. Often guns with sketchy trigs will go off the moment the barrel is closed b/c the little shock of the barrel snapping closed sets it off. Sometimes it happens later w/o warning.

Taking the gun apart to inspect the trigger isn't a big deal imo, but it can be intimidating for a first timer.
All I can really tell you is what I do, which many consider risky. Reason is I do not use a compressor, but instead compress it manually. I have no problem but if you're weaker and/or lighter than me it gets more difficult. I'm ~190lbs and stronger than avg. Also; many compressors people make look pretty sketchy to me so in many cases, maybe most, I think manual is safer. Here's what I do:
Take the stock and barrel off. Remove the plastic end piece at the end where the safety pokes out. Take a piece of board maybe 6" or larger square, and drill a 3/8" hole thru it at the center. The hole is for the safety so you don't break it during the operation.
Then I wear a thick leather glove on my left hand which is to push down on the front end of the guns tube, which is vertical on the board and the board is on the floor. I put my gloved hand on the top of the tube, where the barrel was, to push down with my body weight, which I do by putting my chest/gut on the back of my gloved hand. Now you see the need for the glove b/c it would otherwise hurt.
When pushing down you're pushing the trigger assy back on the spring that is pushing on the trigger assy back. Note; I can't recall if the trigger assy stuck out of the tube a bit or not. If it does then great. If the trig assy is flush or recessed in the tube then all you're really doing is pushing the tube into the board so you need to place something on the board so you're pushing on the trigger assy. For example; a sheet of rubber 1/8" thick and 1" diameter with a notch for the safety. Rubber is good b/c it's grippy. On guns that needed a shim like this I've used a washer or coin but they're slick and if the gun slips you just broke your safety off. I also do not use a hole in a board, but simply let the safety hang over the edge of the board, which is more risky but I know what to expect when doing all this. For a noob the hole is more sturdy.

The trig assy is held in by the pins you see in the side of the tube. The idea is to slide those pins out so you need to relieve the spring force to do it. If you counter the spring force perfectly they may slide out easily, but often you need to tap them out. I use with a dowel, skewer etc that is smaller in dia than the pins which I think are 5mm.
Note; often the pin holes, or holes in the trig housing, are not perfectly spaced so sometimes all the spring force is on only one pin and the other may literally fall out when you take the stock off. If not, odds are one pin is barely in there and you may be able to tap it out w/o compressing the spring. This makes it easier when compressed b/c now you only have one pin to deal with.
I prefer to use a wood to drive the pin out so I don't scratch the bluing or metal by accident, but you have to counter the springs force pretty well for a weak wood dowel to drive then out. Often I have to hammer then out so I have to make the dowel rather short to survive this, like maybe 3" long. A fat bamboo skewer is ideal b/c they're very strong. This should do the trick but you can use metal if you want. My go-to is a small Phillips screwdriver. If you need, simply tap on them w/ a hammer or misc object, but this makes it all the more tricky if you're one handed. You can find something to rest the dowel on to align it w/ the pin, like a washcloth or whatever, then you can tap it with one hand. I can usually use both hands by having just my body on the tube w/ the glove or something as padding, but this is sketchy b/c you don't have good control and you could slip off... Or the way easier method is to have someone help. Once the pins are out you simply ease up your body weight and the assy comes out the end of the tube. It'll come out ~2" or so under spring force and that's it, you're done.
Here your troubles may just begin b/c the Diana trigger is not all that easy to figure out. All I can say is you need to study it while actuating it, but if yours is not actuating it'll take more brain power to figure out.
Take many close up pictures of the trigger from diff angles b4 taking it apart. Many people take it apart and find out they have no clue how to make it work again. With many pix you have a much better chance. Pay special attn to where the springs are, their orientation and where their ends go.

Notes; if for example you use a generic pine board or particle board on carpet, especially thick carpet, it could break when you put all this force on it. I believe the only risk is to the safety sticking out which may not survive, so fyi be wary of the wood and surface it's on.
If I recall correctly, the preload force by the spring isn't all that much. I'm guessing since it's been a long time, but I'd say 75lbs? All I recall for sure is it wasn't hard to do using body weight.
Once you get the trigger assy out, which will fall out as a whole, you have the option of pulling the rest of the guts out or not. For now I guess I'd leave them in there but I always take the gun apart and do stuff to it inside. Misc things can be done to make the gun work better and net more power. I have info on that if you want; chevota at hotmail and I'll send it, just remind me you have a 350. It includes how to fix that scope rail problem by making the scope mount stronger and the gun less violent so the rail and mount will be happy and greatly reduce the odds of breaking scopes.
I also have some pix of the trigger that may help you, and I attached one here fyi.
Note the three smaller pins in the trigger assy itself which may fall out once the stock it off. My memory is fuzzy here so I can't remember if Diana guns do it, but I'm fairly sure they do. Those pins are just floating in there and the stock itself is simply in the way of them sliding out. So remove the stock so the pins are horizontal, then wrap that area with tape to hold them in.


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:19 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Alvinston, Ontario
Chevota is right. After pulling Diana 34 apart, it would not engage when cocking. Pulled apart three times, each time same result. 3rd time when I cocked it, pulled the trigger, while holding the barrel cocked, recocked and all good. D24, D34, D350 were all the same. Trigger does slide inside, not like the Crosman/B18.

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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 278
So to remove the trigger i need to take the spring it out right? And how would you use a irwin clamp to hold down the spring?


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:19 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Alvinston, Ontario
Remove stock, remove barrel and clamp with plastic clamp removed.
I will take mine apart with pics if you want tomorrow?

Did cocking, holding, and trigger pull help?

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


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 Post subject: Re: Diana Magnum 350
PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 11:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 278
Nope i tried everything you guys suggested and still no luck.
Yes that would be great if you could get pics greatly appreciated!
Tks


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